reloading 357 sig??

[kennedy]

I use a lee turret 3 hole press, I already load a lot of rifle, shotgun and pistol rounds, so I bought a 357 sig barrel for my .40 sig 226. looking to buy lee dies and see they don`t come in carbide, only steel since its a necked down case. So do I need to lube like I do for my necked down rifle rounds? do I need the crimping die? any thing else I need to know thats different from other pistol rounds?

 

[billybob44]

I've been loading the .357 Sig for "Awhile"??
For ME--First of all (after good tumble clean) I run all brass through my Redding GR-X .40 S&W/10MM pass through die (Carbide Die). For no Glock "Smiles"
Next step is to run all cases through a RCBS .40 S&W Carbide Sizer Die.
Then I load as usual with my STANDARD RCBS .357 Sig die set.
The Sig is a PITA load to reload due to the neck tension that is needed to hold the projectile from set back.
Be SURE to also use a projectile with long, parallel sides. Almost always 125gr.
The major bullet mfgs. have some information on this on their web sites.
Hope this helps???
Happy loading....Bill.

PS: I just noticed that you are my neighbor-I'm just East of Indy.

 

[WrongHanded]

I used to lube the cases, but after I got a set of carbide .40/10 dies, I started resize the cases with that resizing die first. Then no lube is needed for resizing the neck with the steel .357 Sig die.

Typically, I'll resize/deprime with the .40 die, then switch to the 4 hole turret which holds the Lee 3 die .357 Sig set, and a FCD. I'm not familiar with the Lee 3 hole turret, but if it has removable heads, you may want to buy a dedicated carbide resizing die in .40/10. Then you can resize the body and neck as a batch, and switch to loading cases with a different head, which could hold the flare die, seating die, and a FCD if you feel you need one.

Speaking of the FCD, it's not entirely necessary. If you only flare the case a tiny amount (or not at all), it's possible to hold the bullet on the case mouth and carefully ride the ram up to the die. There may well be enough neck tension that the FCD isn't necessary. I use mine anyway, but very sparingly, because too much will crimp the bullet and ruin the neck tension causing setback issues.

 

[brutus51]

Thought about reloading the 357 Sig, bought a 38 Super instead.

 

[Bottom Gun]

I’ve read some posts about how difficult the .357 Sig is to reload but that has not been my experience at all. It’s no different than loading a bottleneck rifle cartridge. I guess it can be made into a complex operation though.

I don’t bother with any .40 S&W dies. I’m using Hornady steel .357 Sig dies.
I lube the brass and load like any other cartridge. It’s easier to size once and wipe a bit of lube off than to mess with multiple sizing dies. I don’t mind wiping the brass since it gives me a chance to check for splits caused by sizing. I use Imperial Die Wax. Very little is used and it wipes off easily.

I do a couple things differently with .357 Sig. I don’t bell the case mouth nor do I crimp. I think I get more surface contact by not belling or crimping.
The case has a short neck. I’ve found I get better neck retention if I put a slight chamfer on the case mouth with no crimp whatsoever. The chamfer is enough to start the bullet into the case.
I’ve used a variety of bullet weights and styles and I’ve never had any bullet setback even with low volume powders.

I’ve had best results with AA#9 but also use Power Pistol, Unique and Bullseye. I experienced incomplete ignition with 90 gr bullets and AA#9 and had to use a faster powder (Bullseye) for a complete burn with those light bullets.

If you do experience bullet setback, using a high volume powder like AA#9 can help.

I hope that helps a bit. Good luck.

 

[JimKirk]

I just use a steel Redding GRx 40 S&W die ....spray lube in a gallon Ziploc bag ... push through ... then use steel RCBS 357 SIG sizing die ...no need to relube.... the Hornady 124 XTP, RMR MPR, the new RMR Nuke, and others of similar profile work ...

Longshot is my choice of powders .... been loading the SIG for a long time ...tried many combos ... in today's market ...the choices are just limited...

Chamfer, no crimp, no bell ...

 

[Bottom Gun]

I just use a steel Redding GRx 40 S&W die ....spray lube in a gallon Ziploc bag ... push through ... then use steel RCBS 357 SIG sizing die ...no need to relube..

I'm curious. If you are lubing, why include the .40 sizing die in the process? What's the advantage?

 

[kennedy]

thanks for the insight, I do have 40 carbide dies, also will be using universal powder. what do you guys mean by chamfering? is it the tool you use to take the edge off rim after trimming?

 

[Lennyjoe]

Chamfer helps to align the bullet when seating since you don’t bell the mouth. Helps save neck tension.

I’m also using Longshot with 147 gr XTP’s for PD.

Universal won’t get you the best performance out of the .357 Sig but use what ya got u til you get ahold of Longshot.

 

[Lennyjoe]

Here’s Longshot with the 2 bullets above.

 

[Bottom Gun]

A chamfer tool is like a large countersink and will cut an angle on the case mouth.
Yes, that is what you use after trimming to knock the sharp edges off.

 

[kcofohio]

I'm like others. I first use a 40 S&W sizer, then use the 357 SIG sizer. No lube here. Then I use a 60 degree chamfer bit, just a quick zip, to assist with bullet lead in. The I use a Lee short cartridge powder through die. Then bullet seat. No crimp necessary.

I have reloaded cast using the bullets from Lee's 358-125-RF mold, sized to .356". With that bullet, I use the Lee 357 SIG powder through die. But I roll crimp at the crimp groove, since the cartridge can chamber off the shoulder.

 

[kennedy]

Here’s Longshot with the 2 bullets above.

View attachment 1075291

looks good, thanks, got 8 lbs of universal

 

[kcofohio]

looks good, thanks, got 8 lbs of universal

Per Hodgdon's reloading site.

That's for Hornady's 124 gr. XTP.

Universal won't give you the full potential load for 357 SIG. But it will work for practice.

If you can find Longshot, Blue Dot, or Accurate #9. Those will work good. 800x is a good one too, but it was announced to have been discontinued.

 

[Big Wes]

I lube every thing I load, all pistol, all rifle, the press seems to run smoother with a little lube on the cases. That being said I use Dillon carbide dies and a compressed load of AA#9 powder 124 gr. truncated flat point bullet @12.0 grs. to prevent set back. I found the 357 Sig was easy to set up.

 

[Blue68f100]

I've done it both ways, using 40 cal sizer then 357 sig sizer but decided it's just as easy to lube and only size once and be done. I reduced and reshaped a PTX that I use on the 357sig. It's reduced to increase neck tension and has a slight taper to make it easier to seat a bullet. This is one case where wet cleaning really helps with neck tension. Squeaky clean helps hold the bullet in place.

I did a test with the 357sig using LFCD and NOT and NOT one. The LFCD opened the group up almost double. Since there is no canelure to roll into, you end up with less neck tension crimping. Best with these very short necks not to crimp. Also helps to use a powder that gives you a compressed load.

 

[cfullgraf]

I lube my 357 Sig cases and size in a 357 Sig size die. I like to tumble clean the cases after sizing.

I do flare the case mouth a minimum amount just to help the bullet sit on top of the case and seat straight. I taper crimp after seating the bullet to remove the flare but remember crimping is not a substitute for proper neck tension.

Chamfering the inside of the case mouth is a good thing as it takes the sharp edge off the inside of the case mouth. Unless you trim the cases and I do not, you only have to chamfer the case mouth once.

I do not find reloading 357 Sig any more difficult than any other cartridge. It just has a step or two more to do. I also load 38/45 Clerke, another bottleneck handgun case based on the 45 ACP.

 

[JimKirk]

I'm curious. If you are lubing, why include the .40 sizing die in the process? What's the advantage?

The GRx dies(push through) sizes the whole body rim and all ...rim burrs are pushed back to size ...and if any brass has any Glock belly ...it removes that ...the RCBS dies will not size down the very lower .125" of the brass ...it can leave a little "belt" that hinders smooth chambering ...

 

[Bottom Gun]

The GRx dies sizes the whole body rim and all ...rim burrs are pushed back to size ...and if any brass has any Glock belly ...it removes that ...the RCBS dies will not size down the very lower .125" of the brass ...it can leave a little "belt" that hinders smooth chambering ...

That's interesting. Thanks for sharing that info. I'll have to examine my brass more closely in case I need to try your method. I just requested a catalog from Redding.
This is one part of reloading that I enjoy. The learning never stops. Thanks again.

 

[JimKirk]

Redding makes a carbide version of the GRx die now .... but even with a carbide 357 die(I think Dillon is the only maker of 357 SIG carbide)... lube is recommended ...since I tumble after sizing anyway ...nothing is added for me ...

The Lee APP press has a 40 S&W push through die that would make quick work of the push through part ...