Reloading bench lip, plans, surface questions

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I posted my simple bench. In show me your bench. 1 half sheet of 3/4 bc plywood fastened with screws to some 2x4s which is attached to the wall with 3 inch deck screws. It has zero flex. No need to over build one. I'm a journey man carpenter that has been doing structural building for over 40 years.
 
You could use 3/8" plywood for the shelf (I) and back brace instead of 1/2" or 3/4" material. You just glue and screw some 1 1/2"x1 1/2" spruce lumber braces across these pieces. It should be just as rigid and strong, but saves weight and cost.
Also, by using the screwed and glued truss legs (which are very rigid and strong) that I described in my post #11, the weight will be about the same as the legs (G) and cross braces (D) shown in the diagram. This eliminates the need for parts (K) entirely, which saves weight and cost.
The additional weight of using an 8'x3' laminated 1 1/2" top instead of a single layer 3/4" top using softwood plywood is about 45 pounds, but the strength and rigidity gained is huge, including that very useful overhang.
And this weight will be subtracted from the bench by using the thinner 3/8" plywood for the shelf and back brace and by being able to eliminate parts (K).
 
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Ended up going with five 4x4s (3 across back, 2 in the front corners). on edge 2x4s front to back, on face 2x6s left to right, topped with 3/4" ply and laminate. Ended up ****ing up the first placement of the mount because I thought 3" would be enough for the swing of the ergo handle but I needed less. Anyway, here's the bench. Overall cost including all screws nuts, bolts, contact cement, and laminate (and rollers and dowels) was 218$... but 100$ of that was laminate and stuff for dealing with laminate.

Edit- I'll brace that bottom shelf I'm just lazy at the moment.
 

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Just my $.02.... I've built and used many benches at various heights and depths. I'm only 5'9", but I personally find 3' deep to be a bit too deep. I made my first bench that deep because I wanted tons of surface area, but found it's too deep to comfortably reach the back, or anything on shelves or the wall at the back of it. Anything between 2' and 2'6" feels perfect for me. If you're putting those shelves on top I'd probably opt for 2'6".

I actually still use that 3' deep bench, but pulled it away from the wall. It now sits in the center of the garage where I can use it from both sides, which is extremely handy.
 
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Just my $.02.... I've built and used many benches at various heights and depths. I'm only 5'9", but I personally find 3' deep to be a bit too deep. I made my first bench that deep because I wanted tons of surface area, but found it's too deep to comfortably reach the back, or anything on shelves or the wall st the back of it. Anything between 2' and 2'6" feels perfect for me. If you're putting those shelves on top I'd probably opt for 2'6".

I actually still use that 3' deep bench, but pulled it away from the wall. It now sits in the center of the garage where I can use it from both sides, which is extremely handy.

I'm 6'3 with long arms, so it should be ok. I measured what was comfortable at 36" high and it was almost 34" (I have 30" long arms). Add the fact I'll lose an inch or so to whatever shelving I put on top and I don't think it'll be uncomfortable, but we'll see.
 
I have one bench that is deep. The nice thing about it is, I can slide equipment to the back and be out of the way. I move my Digital scales to the back when not in use. I also have bins of brass and my load books back against the wall. Still gives me more enough room to load and still have all my tools close hand.

I really need to build some shelves to go around my shop. Storage space is always at a premium.
 
I'm 6'3 with long arms, so it should be ok. I measured what was comfortable at 36" high and it was almost 34" (I have 30" long arms). Add the fact I'll lose an inch or so to whatever shelving I put on top and I don't think it'll be uncomfortable, but we'll see.

Perfect - sounds like you'll be good to go then :)
 
Looks very nice and I'll second the mentions of tee-nuts and a separate or modular shelf in the back. If leveling ever becomes an issue if you might move it to a new location, elevator bolts and thread-in tee nuts work great for adjustment +/- 2" or so. I'm 6'1" and my bench is right at 39-1/2" which works for sitting or standing and my my reach is the same as yours. Here's a picture of the adjustable feet and replaceable top mounting for reference. KIMG0893.JPG KIMG0898.JPG KIMG0943.JPG
 
I'll admit that I didn't read every post after the OP, but I will suggest the bench not rely solely on "moment-resisting" connections at the corners, but also diagonal bracing.
 
However you choose to make it, make it according to your height. Bending over for a low bench gets old real fast. I used kitchen cabinets for mine with a counter top from lowes reinforced with 5/8's hardwood plywood. But that matters little. At the end of the day you need to be comfortable working at your space. Make it so. Don't forget the chair or stool. Excellent suggestions that everyone has.
 
To each his own. I like the overhang on mine because it allows me to quickly install, reposition, and remove powder measures, extra presses, lubri-sizers, vises and such.
I mount these to 1 1/2" thick plywood sub-bases and clamp them solidly down with a pair of 4" C-clamps. Each sub-base is a few inches wider on either side to allow clamping space for the C-clamps.

X2 on the overhang and being able to clamp sub-bases to the bench top.
 
Mount the press with 1/4-20 T-nuts from the underside. That way you can unbolt one press and quickly mount a second.

I suggest that 5/16 inch bolts and T-nuts work better than 1/4 inch. Only slightly larger but probably 75% stronger.
 
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