Reloading bench lip, plans, surface questions

[cardinalorange]

Planning on upgrading my bench with the new press coming in, and am debating what I want in pretty much every direction. I'm used to reloading on a bench my dad probably made in 1940, so not sure what most people use. My current plan is an 8'x3' 3/4" ply surface, approx 40" high (for a 28-33" stool, or standing at 6'3), mounted on 4x4 doug fir corner posts with a 5th 4x4 in the middle back. The braces for the ply will be doug fir 2x4/2x6s. I'm planning on running a horizontal (i.e. longest side parallel to the floor) 2x4/6/8 along the front edge for more secure mounting, and putting that directly on top the 4x4s. A 2x6 will then run the front to back braces and every 18" on center the length of the bench.

My questions are: Does this sound adequate? Anything I should watch out for? Is the lip in front a bad idea? What should I coat the ply with?

I'm using this as a rough guide, with "E" being the 2x4/6/8, F being a 2x6, and the lower bench (I) being only 1' deep. I won't be adding the shelves (yet, the back 4x4s will go 6-7' up and can be used as anchors for shelves) or adding the "K" piece of wood:

 

[rfwobbly]

It's not so much what material you use, but where the material is placed that counts. For example...

• The plan shows a bench constructed mostly of vertical and horizontal pieces, but to oppose "rocking" you'll need some diagonals. Board K will oppose rocking front-to-rear, but you'll need something to oppose rocking L-to-R. You can either bolt the bench several places to the wall of the home, or add a 1/4" sheet of plywood across the back.

• The only reason for heavy legs is to oppose the downward forces created by the reloading press during Sizing. Those legs do much better the closer they get to the press. The very best position is then to locate a leg directly under the press. If you intend to mount your press in the center, then adding even a vertical 2x2 directly under the press will make a huge difference. Look where this Dillon is located...


• Notice all those presses in the photo are mounted on stands. Those stands sets the press further back into the center of the bench where the top is stronger. As such they eliminate the need to construct a "lip" on the bench front. The lip design is inherently weak, being little more than a diving board. You're much better off with a stand than a lip. See... https://inlinefabrication.com/collections/ultramounts


(The bench in the photo was constructed using a single sheet of 3/4" plywood cut length-wise to make the top 24" deep by 1-1/2" thick. The skirt is 1x6" around 4 sides. There are only two 4x4 legs in the front. Attaching the bench to the wall at every stud eliminated all "rocking" and the need for rear legs. So here's a bench with half the material, half the construction complexity, and twice the strength.)

Hope this helps.

 

[edwardware]

I do a bit of case forming, and lots of rifle sizing. For that context, I enjoy a bench that's significantly stiffer, heavier, and bolted back and down (wall and floor). More like a traditional woodworking bench made for standing still under high lateral loads.

The lip is fine, provided it's small enough that your arm doesn't mind it when writing in the log book.

 

[tightgroup tiger]

If you do attach your presses to the bench itself then Board E needs to be a 2x8 or even a 2 x10 so there is more board to bolt down and the presses downward forces don't work the board loose from the bench. It also gives you more board to bolt the presses to. Most presses just sit on the bench and are only bolted in the back of the press.
Like rfwobbly said, there needs to be diagonals across the back or gussets to keep the bench from racking sideways.
My bench is also attached to the studding.

 

[tightgroup tiger]

When you attach board E to C keep the front edge of board E close to the front face of board C. If it is back to far, when you bolt your presses down you will be drilling down into board C and won't be able to get nuts on the bolts your bolting your press down with.
I think I would also put another leg in the center of the bench if you use that design.
And I would notch out the top of leg G so board C sits directly on it instead of being bolted to the front of it.

 

[SlowFuse]

I put a lip on all four sides (1/2" quarter round trim) of one of my benches and ended up taking the front one off.

I notice we may be talking about two different things, your "lip" sounds like overhang. Not something to keep objects from rolling off.

A hardboard surface (like pegboard with no holes) has worked well for me, and easy to replace if needed. I'm also fine with the bare plywood surface.

 

[bihj]

In your plan, I am assuming that "J" is a vertical piece of plywood attached to the back legs and "A" and "B". If so, all racking (rocking) issues are addressed.
I built the same bench when I started and it served very well.

 

[George P]

If you are NOT going to use the Inline Fabrication mounts as shown above (and they are really worth the cost) then double the 3/4" plywood, glued and screwed and anchor the whole unit to wall studs.

The only time I would need a lip would be for shot spills loading for my shotguns - instead that press sits inside your basic steam table deep tray.

 

[Tilos]

I pitch the bench top back towards the wall, not much just enough so anything I place/drop will roll towards the back and not off the front edge and onto the floor.
Probably way less than 1" per foot but I've never measured it.
I just used a torpedo level with 2 quarters under the back end during the build.

 

[Varminterror]

I think a lot of folks above are misinterpreting what you meant by “lip.” Most folks do favor a “lip,” a “fence” around the edges to prevent small parts from rolling off of the bench. But what the OP is describing is the overhanging “lip” as pictured in the attachment.

Personally, I would NOT use that lip board with the front edge not supported. You’ll be “teetering” the board against the screws (cantilevered) with a long working lever (press handle) and a short support lever (width of the board extending backwards in the table). The sheeting top will flex, and the lip board will want to roll. A stronger bench design would have the front lip supported by a board on edge. I could get on board with having a 2x8” or 2x10” edge board laid flat as an anchor for the presses, but I’d want my legs at the forward corners , with no cantilevered lip.

 

[Old Stumpy]

I built my bench with a 3 1/2" overhang in front and used a top of 2 pieces of 3/4" fir plywood laminated and glued together instead of the board (E). I strongly recommend this. The overhang is very rigid and resists resizing forces completely.
The legs were laminated from a pair of 2X4s for each to allow the 2X4 horizontal cross pieces (D) to be easily fitted in with lap joints without chopping the joints. Each leg unit forms a solid rectangular truss that is glued and screwed together with 3" deck screws.
I used a 1/2" plywood back board across the inside from the shelf to the top to reinforce the bench from side flexing.
I take no credit for the design. It's from a Black and Decker published Home Renovation book.
Otherwise my bench is much like yours, but only 5 feet long.

 

[George P]

And if you use those press riser mounts previously mentioned, there is no resizing torque issue from a press overhanging the top edge.

 

[tightgroup tiger]

And if you use those press riser mounts previously mentioned, there is no resizing torque issue from a press overhanging the top edge.

And that is Oh So Very True. But I like my press right in front of my face. I don't like to lean forward to see down inside the case to see if there is powder in it. I guess that's the trade off for me.

 

[C.F. Plinker]

Have you considered using a solid core door for the top? This could limit the bench length to 80". I wound up mounting my 550 to the end of the bench where the span between 4x4s is only about 2-1/2 feet. This short span plus the weight of the bench extending away from the press makes for a very stable bench.
Having the bench 3' deep may make it quite a reach to get things on the back of the shelves.
Make the lower shelf half depth if you will be sitting at the bench either for loading or for case prep, gun cleaning etc. Your shins will thank you. Make the lower braces (D) high enough that a 5 gal bucket will fit under them. The bucket is your waste basket.

 

[Jesse Heywood]

I would not use plywood for the working surface. It is to soft and will dent and wear unevenly. 1/4" hardened masonite is better, but will need to be replaceable. Flat head screws can be used, countersunk just below the surface and filled with spackle, which can be removed. Another option that I prefer is the Formica style countertop material. To remove you heat the surface to break the bond of the glue. The modern material is nearly indestructible, short of direct hammer blows.

Your bench is very heavy. To help make it moveable, I would make the cabinets separate from the base. 3/4" plywood for AA & BB, 1/2" can be used for the inner structure. 1/4" for the back. 4 screws into the top. Your rear legs can then be 2x4. My last workbench had front legs made of 2x4 screwed to form an L, with the narrow leg to the front.

 

[Jesse Heywood]

Have you considered using a solid core door for the top? This could limit the bench length to 80". I wound up mounting my 550 to the end of the bench where the span between 4x4s is only about 2-1/2 feet. This short span plus the weight of the bench extending away from the press makes for a very stable bench.

This makes a good bench. Locate a door at a salvage or second hand builders store. Best if topped with a hard surface. And the solid door can be cut down if a smaller bench is needed. And it doesn't take much support structure.

 

[Rembrandt]

Meaning regarding the "lip" was a bit confusing. Guess I would describe it either as an overhang or a cantilevered bench top. Never the less, if you are trying to keep objects from rolling off, one solution would be to run a router and cove bit around the perimeter....thus incorporating a trough to help keep things from rolling away.

 

[cardinalorange]

So, luckily I have a carpenter for a wife and she took a look at the plans and redrew them and redid them (I've learned to have at least somewhat of a plan before I go to her with a request or she either ignores it or builds something she wants instead of what I want). We decided on a few of the changes mentioned here as well as some differences. It will be three 4x4 posts in the back at the outside and 4'. The "F" and "C" boards above will be 2x4s that are flush with the top of the front 4x4s (only two 4x4s on the corners). Two additional front to back (parallel to "F" and "C") 2x4s will run on the inside and outside of the middle 4x4. There will be no overhang (or lip, as I was calling it). On top of those 2x4s will be three 2x6s laying flat left to right at the edge and the middle. On top of that 2x6 will be half inch OSB topped with laminate (formica). The bottom shelf will only be 12" (depth of my ammo cans), so I'm just using a 2x12 on top of a 2x4 "cross beam."

I'll add pictures when I finish it. It'll probably look like **** because she'll make me do it then complain when it's done though

And to answer some of the questions- Not worried about reach, I measured and I can comfortable reach 34" so "straining" for the last 2" isn't something that should happen often. I decided against an overhang because I don't actually see a need for it anymore, and I went ahead and got the mount for my press because everyone seemed to suggest it. With that mount I'll likely make the table ~34-36" tall, but I want to mock it up and see if I like it first.

The next question is whether to use bolts or just 3-4" wood screws for attaching the wood. I want to bolt at least the "F" and "C" boards, but she thinks screws is enough

 

[Insignificant bill]

Screws should be plenty

 

[rfwobbly]

Mount the press with 1/4-20 T-nuts from the underside. That way you can unbolt one press and quickly mount a second.

 

[Old Stumpy]

I would not use plywood for the working surface. It is to soft and will dent and wear unevenly. 1/4" hardened masonite is better, but will need to be replaceable.

Two pieces of fir plywood laminated and glued together works great. It's rigid and solid.
I also used a 1/4" masonite top held in place with brads around the edges, that I failed to mention.
It will be replaceable this way.
Double-tempered masonite would be lovely, if you can find it, but I don't think that this is necessary.

 

[Old Stumpy]

Depending on whether you need to be able to dismantle your bench, carpenters wood glue will make the structure stronger and more rigid.
I have a very similar woodworking bench to the Black & Decker bench that I described, but without the overhang in front. I glued everything and there is absolutely no flexing in any direction whatsoever.
Since I was concerned about hand planing, this was an issue.
And, yes, this bench WILL be very heavy.

 

[George P]

And that is Oh So Very True. But I like my press right in front of my face. I don't like to lean forward to see down inside the case to see if there is powder in it. I guess that's the trade off for me.

Mine sits right at the edge and I can look into it easily enough; of course some folks have also rigged up lights and mirrors on the underside of the top of the press.

 

[Old Stumpy]

There will be no overhang (or lip, as I was calling it).

To each his own. I like the overhang on mine because it allows me to quickly install, reposition, and remove powder measures, extra presses, lubri-sizers, vises and such.
I mount these to 1 1/2" thick plywood sub-bases and clamp them solidly down with a pair of 4" C-clamps. Each sub-base is a few inches wider on either side to allow clamping space for the C-clamps.

 

[Varminterror]

If a builder is using a thick, solid top, as @Old Stumpy described of his 1.5” thick bench top, then an overhang is cantilevered appropriately and will last forever - a long lever arm support anchoring to the bench at the rear against a short lever arm working on the front (the Force on the press handle working over the overhang). The drawing from the OP is structurally very different, as it shows a thin topping surface with a single, narrow board for the overhang (E), such the cantilever is flipped - the force working on a long arm, with a short arm anchoring in the bench. The OP’s benchtop then is much less expensive and yields a much lighter bench. We need a thick top under the presses, but don’t necessarily need the entire top to be 1.5” thick. Done appropriately, that load bearing lip could work well - but presses will torque that lip considerably, frequently, and repeatedly, so the design pictured with a narrow lip board isn’t ideal.

So it’s a balance of cost, weight, and strength.