Reloading for a glock

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Okcafe86

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So Ive owned several pistols by multiple manufactures, but never a glock. Pretty much the only reason is the stima behind reloading for them. Case bulging, leading in barrel, the list goes on.
My question is this. Is the general consesus on the topic that if you want to reload with these things, its accepted to buy a new barrel and all your problems go away?
 
Glock has iterated on chamber configuration thru it's various models over the years.

Their early gen .40 S&W chambers were on the generous side, which could give reloaders grief.
They have changed in later versions to tighter chambers.

I've reloaded thousands of rounds of hard cast lead and jacketed projectiles in 9mmx19
for Gen 2 Glocks w/o any case failures or serious overpressure incidents.
My goal was similar-to-factory performance to make IPSC power factor.
(Confirmed by chrono).

I'm also reloading for my Gen 4 G20 in 10mm My goals there are max safe published loadings
using 180g projectiles. I'm using Starline brass. Also using factory barrel, but heaver aftermarket recoil spring.

If you want to shoot +P loadings or softer lead projectiles you will probably gain
an extra safety margin using an aftermarket barrel.

The very latest generation Glock barrels have moved away from polygonal rifling.
 
I have loaded for my g23 and g17 , many rounds of plated and now some coated not one issue in the 40 S&W or
The 9mm , I don’t load real hot ammo but really I never understood the glock taboo just follow safe reloading practices and it’s like loading for any other gun in my opinion
 
Early Glocks had a well-deserved reputation for poor chamber support, but by the time you get to Gen 3 they are similar to competing pistols. Support is fine on my Gen 3 40. They are polygonal, but they aren't alone in that regard. I know the 9mm PPQ M2 I had was polygonal as well, and I'm sure there are others. I've had no problems with coated lead bullets.
 
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I have shot many many hard cast lead bullets that I reloaded through a gen 2 glock 23 with factory barrel. It was supposed to blow up and kill me or at the very least permanently disfigure me (according to all the internet experts).
So far, I have had no issues. I watch for signs of leading and clean accordingly. I also suspect my chamber is tighter and better supported than some other factory barrels as I have never had bulging except with some hot factory self defense loads. My loads are fairly mild but function perfectly and they don't bulge.
 
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The Glock polygon barrels can/will lead with soft (i.e. swaged) lead bullets, in my experience (9mm), but they are less likely with hard cast bullets and probably even less so with most polymer coated bullets. A new, land-and-groove barrel might still have issues with soft swaged lead bullets, but are less likely to lead with hard cast and coated bullets. I've had no leading with polymer coated bullets in land-and-groove barrels.
 
I reload for a Glock 19 g4 I never had an issue but I stick to copper plated & FMJ in my ploygonal guns like my Glock19 & HK VP 40.

My Walther PPQ M2 is traditional lands and grooves but their PPQ in 45 is Polygonal. Odd but true both great shooters.

I remember the early Glock’s chambered in 40 Smith & Wesson had some searoius bulge issues since the chamber didn’t have enough support.

They fixed that in the later generations gen 3 I think?

I know some folks just drop a lone wolf barrel or something like that in when they want to shoot strictly lead. Plated, coated & FMJ are a non issue at least for me.
 
Reloading for a Glock is no different than reloading for anything else. You need to do some testing and “work up” a load that works well and is safe in you gun.
The first Glock I bought was a G36. It did not like my 1911 loads at all. Can you say "Glockenbrass". After a little tuning, my loads worked great. Super accurate gun.

Fast forward to today. Most (by far) of my pistol reloading is for 9mm Glocks. I like plated bullets with stock barrels.
Lead and powder coated seem to smoky to me. I’m sure I could get something worked up that works, but I m fine with plated. They are cheap and easy.
 
I've always reloaded for my G17s. Alway copper plated bullets. Never had a problem. When I do get around to CL**NING (foul language not allowed on this board) the barrel has never shown any accumulation of copper or lead.
 
There is one thing to do seeking advice on loading for Glock's. Make sure that person has loaded lead in a Glock. I had one citizen go postal on this issue in another forum. He insisted a Glock would go off like a hand grenade after eight rounds of lead. His good buddy, the expert, had told him this BS. Both HK and Glock discourage use of lead bullets. I shall continue to load and shoot lead bullets in both Glock and HK handguns.
 
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Ive owned several pistols by multiple manufactures, but never a glock ... general consesus on ... reload with these things
With jacketed, plated and coated lead bullets (Hi-Tek and powder coated), I would suggest you reload like how you have reloaded for your other pistols.

glock ... [stigma] behind reloading for them. Case bulging, leading in barrel
Case bulging was a concern for earlier generation of 40S&W Glocks but by Gen 3, Glock chambers have tightened up and case base support is now comparable if not better than other brand factory barrels. Now, when I see an overly expanded brass, they are not from Glock barrels (Glock strikers leave distinct rectangle indent on primers). 9mm chamber tightness and case base support has not been an issue since Gen 1.

Spent brass from Glock showing distinct rectangle indent on primer cup
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Gen 1 through 4 Glock barrels have rounded rifling with longer leade and smooth gradual start of rifling. Gen 5 Glock barrels now have conventional square cut land/groove rifling.

Glock barrel showing rounded rifling and smooth gradual start of rifling from chamber on the left
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With lubed lead bullets in Glock barrels, longer leade, smooth and gradual start of rifling allow the bullet to jump deeper into the rifling before pressure builds. This allows more high pressure gas to leak around the bullet blowing more liquefied lube/fouling down the barrel. This results in more fouling build up just forward of chamber and down the barrel. After several hundred rounds, build up along the smooth rifling ends up with less defined rifling and can start to affect accuracy. Type of fouling can vary from hard crusty build up to lighter flaky build up depending on lube type. So when shooting lead loads, I inspect Glock barrels after 200-300 rounds and clean as necessary.
There is one thing to do seeking advice on loading for Glock's. Make sure that person has loaded lead in a Glock.
I have shot several tens of thousands of 18 BHN MBC lead bullets in my Glock barrels with good accuracy and have not experienced leading. I have experienced fouling build up forward of chamber and along the rifling that required cleaning after several hundred rounds and accuracy was maintained until cleaning.

buy a new barrel and all your problems go away?
I use KKM/Lone Wolf 40-9 conversion and Lone Wolf 40S&W aftermarket barrels in my Glocks. With conventional land/groove rifling (see pictures of KKM and Lone Wolf barrels below), even after 500+ round shooting session, rifling will stay clean without leading.

Aftermarket barrels have produced greater accuracy with lead bullets over Glock barrels for me; but unless you are wanting to shoot matches with lead bullets, I would not consider replacing Glock barrels just to shoot some lead bullets.

KKM and Lone Wolf barrels with square cut land/groove rifling and sharper start of rifling
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I stand by what I say. Your bullets are too soft. What you describe is exactly what happens when bullets are not sufficiently hard. You have proved the point other posters have made about using harder alloys. Thanks for the help.
 
So Ive owned several pistols by multiple manufactures, but never a glock. Pretty much the only reason is the stima behind reloading for them. Case bulging, leading in barrel, the list goes on.
My question is this. Is the general consesus on the topic that if you want to reload with these things, its accepted to buy a new barrel and all your problems go away?

Ive loaded and shot thousands of rounds for my Glock 17 Gen 4. A couple of caveats below:
1. I only shoot plated or jacketed bullets. (lately only jacketed bullets as 115gr FMJ From rocky mountain reloading are 7-7.5 cents a piece shipped to my door which is the cheapest quality bullet I can find.
2. Ive never ever seen any bulging issues and I have reloaded some brass north of 10x
3. I am loading 4.6gr of bullseye which is the max load in the Hornady manual, accurate load and cycles my pistol perfectly.
4. I dont shoot naked lead bullets in any of my guns. I dont neccessarily have an objection but I dont cast my own bullets and I can get jacketed bullets for a great price.

I would think as long as your not loading to +P+ loads you will be totally fine.

My 2 cents,
Dom
 
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My experience is much like TheDomFather. Practically all my Glock shoots are my reloads through the factory barrel. Never had any issues, but all I shoot are plated or jacketed bullets. Brass has held up great, I have some that has gone through 7 or 8 reload/shooting cycles and still good to go.
 
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This question gets asked often, I'm not sure why. Is it just because of the polygonal rifling?
I have a Gen II G22 that has fired reloaded ammo (with plated, coated and jacketed bullets) almost exclusively for many years.
 
I have been feeding my gen 3 glock 21sf an exclusive diet of reloads for over a decade now. Not a single issue ever. Bear in mind, the vast majority of that was using copper plated bullets, but about 2 years ago I switched over to powder coated hard cast lead bullets without any noticeable impact on the barrel. My typical range trip runs from 100 to 200 rounds or more per individual session. Typical cleanup after said range trip is very easy, some hoppes on a boresnake and I am good to go for the barrel.

That being said, about twice a year I will do a deep clean on the pistol, taking everything apart and getting all the powder residue out of the nooks and crannies, but overall care for a glock is about as simple as it gets.

Reloading for a glock is nothing to worry or fret about, as long as you go about it sensibly.
 
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Thank you for your input everyone. I did forget to mention I mainly load cast boolits from wheel weight and Ill buy MBC when I dont have time to cast. So leading in the polygonal rifling was my main concern. If and when I do buy one Ill get an aftermarket barrel just to put my mind at ease.
 
Thank you for your input everyone. I did forget to mention I mainly load cast boolits from wheel weight and Ill buy MBC when I dont have time to cast. So leading in the polygonal rifling was my main concern. If and when I do buy one Ill get an aftermarket barrel just to put my mind at ease.

You may want to consider trying a powder coating on your cast bullets. It should work out fine, and would save the effort of buying an aftermarket barrel. There are a ton of threads here on how to do it. Most people are going with Hi-Tek 2 coatings from their web site.
 
I powder coat mine with harbor freight red for my glocks with no issues, just make sure you slug your bore and ensure the bullets are at least .001”-002” over that and you don’t shrink them while crimping.
 
I mainly load cast boolits from wheel weight and Ill buy MBC when I dont have time to cast. So leading in the polygonal rifling was my main concern. If and when I do buy one Ill get an aftermarket barrel just to put my mind at ease.
Or you can buy a Gen5 Glock which has conventional square cut land/groove rifling so you won't need an aftermarket barrel to shoot lead bullets. ;)

If you are buying Gen3/Gen4 Glocks, aftermarket barrel would be a consideration if you shoot a lot of lead bullets.
 
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