westernrover
Member
- Joined
- May 4, 2018
- Messages
- 1,613
As an experienced reloader, I'm not under the delusion that reloading "saves money." If I really wanted to save money shooting this cartridge, I should have just kept buying M193 and let no other thought enter my mind. Neither am I under the delusion that a Mini-14 is a precision rifle with which I can chase tenths of an MOA with bench rest quality match ammo. Even so, I did it. I haven't thought of a good reason why, yet.
Tools
I bought the top-end dies from Redding, a carbide button, a SAC bushing, shellholder, Wilson trimmer holder, and Lee primer pocket swager. They're being shipped. So, I haven't done any reloading for this cartridge yet. I know the cool kids use mandrels, but I didn't want to add a die and press handle stroke, so I got the button.
Bullets
I've been considering bullets and powders (see another recent thread). With the 1:9 twist, I'm looking at bullets 55 and 62 gr. since those are the popular mid-weights. I could probably shoot the 69 gr. RMR 3GH, but from what I've seen, OTM-style bullets need about 77 grains before they penetrate well. I needn't be concerned with terminal effectiveness of target ammo, but if the 55 gr. FMJ costs less and does it all, why stock anything else other than an addition of a modest quantity of much more costly bonded or mono expanding bullets? I did order some lead-free frangibles for Urban Rifle at Thunder Ranch, but since I spent the tuition money on reloading, I might never go. For FMJ, I'm leaning toward Everglades Version 2.
Accuracy
I shot some sight-in targets at 100 yards with LC M193 and M855. I wanted to get a bigger sample, but the front scope ring came loose and ruined the rest of the results before I knew what had happened. I used the remainder of the afternoon session to zero the Tech Sight before a thunderstorm hit. Ultimately, I'll be using a red dot or the Tech Sight. I only temporarily fitted a 1.5-5x20 optic to see what it could do. I've been told not to expect much from a Mini-14 or LC ammo in terms of accuracy, but the results with M193 aren't that disappointing. I was shooting off a Lifetime table with only a front bag. I haven't a bipod adapter for the Mini, so I'm using my rear bag under the fore-end. The rear bag doesn't really work under the folding stock anyway.
^ Half-inch squares
Blue group is after moving the reticle 1 MOA left.
The Mini-14 Trigger
This Mini-14 is a late-model, series 584x, bought new this year. The trigger is 6.5#. There is take-up and then a relatively heavy (6.5# on Lyman guage), but smooth slide to release the sear. I could reduce the secondary sear spring weight, but this won't be a benchrest rifle, so it's fine where it is if I practice good trigger control.
Brass
The Mini-14 trashed my hope of using the LC brass. I suppose the high pressure it's loaded to also contributes to the damage. I use a Wilson Combat buffer pad on the guide rod. I don't have an adjustable gas block, nor do I especially want one. As it is, it doesn't eject the brass more than 3 to 5 yards, but it scratches and dents every piece. Maybe if I reloaded the damaged LC brass to lower pressure, it would push the dents out and I'd have consistent case volume for the third load. Otherwise, I'm going to have to buy new brass or brass fired in another chamber and fire it in my chamber before I'll have a supply of fireformed brass. This gives new meaning to the old adage that reloading doesn't save money, but it means you shoot more. "I'm going to the range to fireform some brass." I saw some Starline for 27 cents, but maybe I should just buy fired LC for 15 cents since I'll have the pocket swager.
Velocity
I measured the LC M193 at 5-shot averages of 3055 and 3044 fps with SD's of 20 and 16 out of the 16.5" barrel. I pulled one and measured 28.1 grains of WC844. The LC M855 had 27.3 grains. I didn't get measurements for M855 with the chronograph. I only bought one box and probably won't buy any more.
Goals
It's hard to see a meaningful difference in cost or accuracy that I could make with handloads over M193. Because my original intention was to have a store of a few thousand pieces and not just reload the same 100 cases over and over again, the cost of brass is going to burn me, especially since it looks like all the LC brass will be damaged after the first firing. I still have hope of getting a satisfying result from developing a load for this rifle, but it may just be a fool's errand.
Tools
I bought the top-end dies from Redding, a carbide button, a SAC bushing, shellholder, Wilson trimmer holder, and Lee primer pocket swager. They're being shipped. So, I haven't done any reloading for this cartridge yet. I know the cool kids use mandrels, but I didn't want to add a die and press handle stroke, so I got the button.
Bullets
I've been considering bullets and powders (see another recent thread). With the 1:9 twist, I'm looking at bullets 55 and 62 gr. since those are the popular mid-weights. I could probably shoot the 69 gr. RMR 3GH, but from what I've seen, OTM-style bullets need about 77 grains before they penetrate well. I needn't be concerned with terminal effectiveness of target ammo, but if the 55 gr. FMJ costs less and does it all, why stock anything else other than an addition of a modest quantity of much more costly bonded or mono expanding bullets? I did order some lead-free frangibles for Urban Rifle at Thunder Ranch, but since I spent the tuition money on reloading, I might never go. For FMJ, I'm leaning toward Everglades Version 2.
Accuracy
I shot some sight-in targets at 100 yards with LC M193 and M855. I wanted to get a bigger sample, but the front scope ring came loose and ruined the rest of the results before I knew what had happened. I used the remainder of the afternoon session to zero the Tech Sight before a thunderstorm hit. Ultimately, I'll be using a red dot or the Tech Sight. I only temporarily fitted a 1.5-5x20 optic to see what it could do. I've been told not to expect much from a Mini-14 or LC ammo in terms of accuracy, but the results with M193 aren't that disappointing. I was shooting off a Lifetime table with only a front bag. I haven't a bipod adapter for the Mini, so I'm using my rear bag under the fore-end. The rear bag doesn't really work under the folding stock anyway.
^ Half-inch squares
Blue group is after moving the reticle 1 MOA left.
The Mini-14 Trigger
This Mini-14 is a late-model, series 584x, bought new this year. The trigger is 6.5#. There is take-up and then a relatively heavy (6.5# on Lyman guage), but smooth slide to release the sear. I could reduce the secondary sear spring weight, but this won't be a benchrest rifle, so it's fine where it is if I practice good trigger control.
Brass
The Mini-14 trashed my hope of using the LC brass. I suppose the high pressure it's loaded to also contributes to the damage. I use a Wilson Combat buffer pad on the guide rod. I don't have an adjustable gas block, nor do I especially want one. As it is, it doesn't eject the brass more than 3 to 5 yards, but it scratches and dents every piece. Maybe if I reloaded the damaged LC brass to lower pressure, it would push the dents out and I'd have consistent case volume for the third load. Otherwise, I'm going to have to buy new brass or brass fired in another chamber and fire it in my chamber before I'll have a supply of fireformed brass. This gives new meaning to the old adage that reloading doesn't save money, but it means you shoot more. "I'm going to the range to fireform some brass." I saw some Starline for 27 cents, but maybe I should just buy fired LC for 15 cents since I'll have the pocket swager.
Velocity
I measured the LC M193 at 5-shot averages of 3055 and 3044 fps with SD's of 20 and 16 out of the 16.5" barrel. I pulled one and measured 28.1 grains of WC844. The LC M855 had 27.3 grains. I didn't get measurements for M855 with the chronograph. I only bought one box and probably won't buy any more.
Goals
It's hard to see a meaningful difference in cost or accuracy that I could make with handloads over M193. Because my original intention was to have a store of a few thousand pieces and not just reload the same 100 cases over and over again, the cost of brass is going to burn me, especially since it looks like all the LC brass will be damaged after the first firing. I still have hope of getting a satisfying result from developing a load for this rifle, but it may just be a fool's errand.
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