Reloading manuals with a "Service Rifle" section

nettlle

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All though I have a lot of old reloading manuals I only have one current manual which is Lyman's 49th. It's my understanding that the Hornady manual has a "Service Rifle" section. Are their any other manuals out there that have a Service Rifle section? Reloading for a M1A.
 
I've seen service rifle sections in Sierra manuals, in fact I have a PDF section of the pages with service rifle .223 loads.
I was just on the Sierra website and their manual does have a Service Rifle section. Since I use Sierra bullets the Sierra manual would be the best choice for me. My goodness reloading manuals are expensive these days! Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
 
Hodgdens data shows service rifle options for 30-06 and 308. Shooters World data has 223 and 5.56 separated, as are 7.62 NATO and 308 Winchester.
 
Hodgdons manual, westerns load manual, lymans, hornady. The last printed Western manual is one of my favorites for service rifle. It was selling for 4.00 until supplies ran out. I posted a link to it somewhere here a while back. Hodgdons kept some of it and is in their 2022 and 2023 editions.
 
All though I have a lot of old reloading manuals I only have one current manual which is Lyman's 49th. It's my understanding that the Hornady manual has a "Service Rifle" section. Are their any other manuals out there that have a Service Rifle section? Reloading for a M1A.
It's the only reason I have the Hornady manual
 
My advice for reloading for M1a’s is to

1. Full length resize in a small base die

2. Trim cases

3. Clean primer pockets, ream to depth

4. Prime all cases by hand, verify that all primers are below the case head, and use the least

sensitive primers you can find.

5. Use IMR4895/AA2495/H4895 powders.

6. Seat the bullets to magazine depth, no longer than 2.8 for the 308, shorter is fine.

The M1a has a free floating firing pin, like this M1 carbine. The M1 Carbine and the M1a have a firing pin retraction cam. This cam pulls the firing pin back during extraction. It also has limited utility as a safety device, I am going to claim was never meant to be a firing pin block, and it is easily defeated by tight or long rounds. If you sized your round smaller than the chamber the odds would will be in your favor to have an in battery slamfire if you happen to have an overly sensitive primer on that case.

Only at final cam down is the firing pin retracted. Up to then the firing pin is totally free floating and tapping the heck out of the primer.

This is a M1 Carbine firing pin retraction cam.

mNJCiLD.jpg


This is the M1 Garand firing pin retraction cam they are functionally identical, just the carbine is easier to visually understand.

fjquWeS.jpg


This is the location where out of battery slamfires occur.

1ejo6oy.jpg


kjWAyKo.jpg


If the bolt has to stop here to crunch fit a long case or a fat case that firing pin is rebounding off the back of the primer at its highest velocity and the lugs are not engaged. There are many of out of battery slamfire reports in these mechanisms.

That is why it is important to small base size cases used in these rifles and to set up the dies with a case gauge and size to gauge minimum. (Assuming you don’t know the headspace of your chamber, if you do, always be 0.002 to 0.003” less) You want the bolt to close without resistance. This will reduce the risk of an out of battery slamfire.

ODsYmCL.jpg



I purchased a set of reamer cut gages by Sheridan Engineering. I love gadgets like this.

XOHUEzE.jpg


These case gauges are dimensionally correct for a SAAMI chamber. You can drop a sized round or a loaded round in the thing and see if there is an interference fit somewhere. The Wilson gauges only measure base to shoulder distance, they are cut large in the middle. The Wilson gage won't tell you if the round is fat. The Sheridan gauges will.

There are some who say small base dies are not needed in these rifles, the Gunwriter Mike Venturino has been one. For years he has been saying in print that only standard sizing dies are need. But in the July 2012 issue of Guns Magazine, he is testing an M1a and a AR10 and his reloads are too tight. I find it humorous to read of him beating the bolts open with scrap lumber. Ha, Ha.

Small base sizing requires good lube. Attempting to small base size cases with they typical spray on lube will result in cases stuck in the die. I recommend RCBS water soluble or Imperial Sizing wax. These are excellent lubes. Mink Oil has to be a copy of Imperial Sizing wax, worked great.

For these rifles it is safety critical to ensure that all primers are below the case head. Reaming primer pockets to depth is a good idea. Seat the primers by hand, and verify that all of the primers are below the case head. There is a chance that a cocked primer, with the anvil firmly seated on something, will cause a primer initiated slamfire. One poster swaged his primer pockets, which shaved brass donuts into the pocket. He left the donuts in the pocket, which resulted in high primers, and his AR10 slamfired in battery. Clean those pockets! A high primer can cause a slamfire but only if the anvil is firmly seated. High primers are one of the most common cause of misfires because the primer won't fire unless the anvil is seated and is pushed up into the primer cake. http://www.shootingtimes.com/2011/01/04/ammunition_st_mamotaip_200909/ However, given a shallow pocket it is theoretically possible that high primers could slamfire, given debris in the pocket, you can get a slamfire.

When I bought my SuperMatch M1a’s, Springfield Armory provided a copy of Wayne Fattz’s article “The Mysterious Slamfire” which was printed in the American Rifleman in Oct 1983.

Mr. Faatz had an out of battery slamfire, from the clip, with Federal primers. He wrote an article trying to understand why it happened to him.

First on his list of slamfire causes is a sensitive primer.

1. Sensitive Primer (included under this category is a high primer)

2. Minimum headspace chamber and inadequate case sizing (leading to the firing pin hitting the primer with excessive force)

3. Hammer following the bolt

4. Fouled bolt face

All service rifles which have a free floating firing pin have slamfire reports, and they all can slamfire at any time if sensitive primers are in the primer pocket. In these mechanisms, slamfires are “controlled” by primer insensitivity. The use of commercial factory ammunition or reloads that use soft or more sensitive primers often create slamfires.

Because SKS’s slamfire so often, there are lots of slamfire reports with SKS’s, Murray’s has a firing pin modification to reduce the chance of slamfires. Also, the SKS boards has this excellent “A primer on primers”

http://www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php?topic=56422.0

Springfield Armory M1A Manual, page 4

Ammunition

The M1A is designed and built to specifications to shoot standard factory military 7.62 NATO ammunition. The specifications for standard military ammunition include harder primers to withstand the slight indentation from the firing pin when the bolt chambers a cartridge. This slight indentation is normal. The use of civilian ammunition with more sensitive primers or hand loads with commercial primers and/or improperly seated primers increase the risk of primer detonation when the bolt slams forward. This unexpected "slam fire" can occur even if the trigger is not being pulled and if the safety is on. Use of military specification ammunition will help avoid this.

Every shooter should use extreme caution when loading this or any other firearm. See page 17 for instructions on proper loading to help avoid a "slam fire". Also see enclosed article on “Slam Fire” written by Wayne Faatz


Federal primers are the most sensitive primer on the market and the most "slamfiring" primer in Garands/M1a's. I have lots of web accounts of slamfires with Federal primers. Don’t use them. I recommend CCI #34's and Tula7.62 primers as they considered "Mil Spec" primers. Which means they are less sensitive than commercial primers, federal being the most sensitive commercial primer on the market. CCI claimed their standard rifle primers were made to commercial specs, but everyone considers them “harder” than other commercial brands. Don’t use Winchester, they made their primers more sensitive in 1999 with the issuance of the brass finish WLR.

When firing single shot, load from the magazine. Do not put a round in the chamber and drop the bolt. Lots of inbattery slamfires, and a few out of battery, have happened because of this. You want to slow the bolt down. When rounds feed from the magazine the friction between cartridges slows the bolt a bit.

Use powders that are close to IMR 4895 in burning rate or just use IMR 4895. High port pressures are the concern. High pressures will create excessive operating rod acceleration. The NRA used to recommend powders that have burning rates between IMR3031 and IMR4320. This includes powders such as IMR 4064, and Winchester 748. I believe the first choice of powders are IMR 4985, H4895, AA2495. In the 308 I have used a load of 168 grain Sierra Match, 41.0 to 41.5 grains IMR4895, LC cases, and CCI #34 primers OAL 2.800 for years. Basically I am looking for 2575 to 2625 fps with a 168 grain bullet.

Here are actual chronograph values at 200 yards. The muzzle velocity was probably 2600 fps. I was surprised to see how fast the velocity drops.

M1a Super Match
2-Sep-23 T = 70-76 °F

Velocities measured at 200 yards with target chronograph on electronic target.

168 Hornady BTHP Match 41.5 grs AA2495, lot 2-14-1995 (loaded 5/23) LC90 CCI#34 OAL 2.800"

Ave Vel = 2216 fps
Std Dev = 28
ES = 174
Low = 2128
High = 2302

Number rounds registered = 84

Note: Hornady BC =0.450
Calculated Muzzle velocity 2600 fps
200 yard velocity 85% of muzzle

Check cartridges for case head separation. Gas guns are hard on brass: the bolt unlocks while there is still significant chamber pressure. Because of this the case gets stretched on extraction. Carefully inspect cases for stretch ring marks at five reloads. They occur about .4” of an inch ahead of the base. You can verify if the cases are internally necking by inserting a bent paperclip in the case, and feeling for an edge. A number of shooters I have asked claim various case lives in the M1 or M1A. Some have case head separations about the fifth reload, others have taken their cases up to ten reloads. The useful lifetime of a case is determined by case head separations, case neck splitting, or primer pocket enlargement. When any one of these failure mechanisms happens to a case, it has exceeded its operational lifetime. In my experience, US military brass holds up better than commercial cases. But this is a broad generalization. You want to use heavy cases over light cases.
 
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My advice for reloading for M1a’s is to

1. Full length resize in a small base die

2. Trim cases

3. Clean primer pockets, ream to depth

4. Prime all cases by hand, verify that all primers are below the case head, and use the least

sensitive primers you can find.

5. Use IMR4895/AA2495/H4895 powders.

6. Seat the bullets to magazine depth, no longer than 2.8 for the 308, shorter is fine.

The M1a has a free floating firing pin, like this M1 carbine. The M1 Carbine and the M1a have a firing pin retraction cam. This cam pulls the firing pin back during extraction. It also has limited utility as a safety device, I am going to claim was never meant to be a firing pin block, and it is easily defeated by tight or long rounds. If you sized your round smaller than the chamber the odds would will be in your favor to have an in battery slamfire if you happen to have an overly sensitive primer on that case.

Only at final cam down is the firing pin retracted. Up to then the firing pin is totally free floating and tapping the heck out of the primer.

This is a M1 Carbine firing pin retraction cam.

mNJCiLD.jpg


This is the M1 Garand firing pin retraction cam they are functionally identical, just the carbine is easier to visually understand.

fjquWeS.jpg


This is the location where out of battery slamfires occur.

1ejo6oy.jpg


kjWAyKo.jpg


If the bolt has to stop here to crunch fit a long case or a fat case that firing pin is rebounding off the back of the primer at its highest velocity and the lugs are not engaged. There are many of out of battery slamfire reports in these mechanisms.

That is why it is important to small base size cases used in these rifles and to set up the dies with a case gauge and size to gauge minimum. (Assuming you don’t know the headspace of your chamber, if you do, always be 0.002 to 0.003” less) You want the bolt to close without resistance. This will reduce the risk of an out of battery slamfire.

ODsYmCL.jpg



I purchased a set of reamer cut gages by Sheridan Engineering. I love gadgets like this.

XOHUEzE.jpg


These case gauges are dimensionally correct for a SAAMI chamber. You can drop a sized round or a loaded round in the thing and see if there is an interference fit somewhere. The Wilson gauges only measure base to shoulder distance, they are cut large in the middle. The Wilson gage won't tell you if the round is fat. The Sheridan gauges will.

There are some who say small base dies are not needed in these rifles, the Gunwriter Mike Venturino has been one. For years he has been saying in print that only standard sizing dies are need. But in the July 2012 issue of Guns Magazine, he is testing an M1a and a AR10 and his reloads are too tight. I find it humorous to read of him beating the bolts open with scrap lumber. Ha, Ha.

Small base sizing requires good lube. Attempting to small base size cases with they typical spray on lube will result in cases stuck in the die. I recommend RCBS water soluble or Imperial Sizing wax. These are excellent lubes. Mink Oil has to be a copy of Imperial Sizing wax, worked great.

For these rifles it is safety critical to ensure that all primers are below the case head. Reaming primer pockets to depth is a good idea. Seat the primers by hand, and verify that all of the primers are below the case head. There is a chance that a cocked primer, with the anvil firmly seated on something, will cause a primer initiated slamfire. One poster swaged his primer pockets, which shaved brass donuts into the pocket. He left the donuts in the pocket, which resulted in high primers, and his AR10 slamfired in battery. Clean those pockets! A high primer can cause a slamfire but only if the anvil is firmly seated. High primers are one of the most common cause of misfires because the primer won't fire unless the anvil is seated and is pushed up into the primer cake. http://www.shootingtimes.com/2011/01/04/ammunition_st_mamotaip_200909/ However, given a shallow pocket it is theoretically possible that high primers could slamfire, given debris in the pocket, you can get a slamfire.

When I bought my SuperMatch M1a’s, Springfield Armory provided a copy of Wayne Fattz’s article “The Mysterious Slamfire” which was printed in the American Rifleman in Oct 1983.

Mr. Faatz had an out of battery slamfire, from the clip, with Federal primers. He wrote an article trying to understand why it happened to him.

First on his list of slamfire causes is a sensitive primer.

1. Sensitive Primer (included under this category is a high primer)

2. Minimum headspace chamber and inadequate case sizing (leading to the firing pin hitting the primer with excessive force)

3. Hammer following the bolt

4. Fouled bolt face

All service rifles which have a free floating firing pin have slamfire reports, and they all can slamfire at any time if sensitive primers are in the primer pocket. In these mechanisms, slamfires are “controlled” by primer insensitivity. The use of commercial factory ammunition or reloads that use soft or more sensitive primers often create slamfires.

Because SKS’s slamfire so often, there are lots of slamfire reports with SKS’s, Murray’s has a firing pin modification to reduce the chance of slamfires. Also, the SKS boards has this excellent “A primer on primers”

http://www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php?topic=56422.0

Springfield Armory M1A Manual, page 4

http://www.springfield-armory.com/do...=M1AManual.pdf.

Ammunition

The M1A is designed and built to specifications to shoot standard factory military 7.62 NATO ammunition. The specifications for standard military ammunition include harder primers to withstand the slight indentation from the firing pin when the bolt chambers a cartridge. This slight indentation is normal. The use of civilian ammunition with more sensitive primers or hand loads with commercial primers and/or improperly seated primers increase the risk of primer detonation when the bolt slams forward. This unexpected "slam fire" can occur even if the trigger is not being pulled and if the safety is on. Use of military specification ammunition will help avoid this.

Every shooter should use extreme caution when loading this or any other firearm. See page 17 for instructions on proper loading to help avoid a "slam fire". Also see enclosed article on “Slam Fire” written by Wayne Faatz


Federal primers are the most sensitive primer on the market and the most "slamfiring" primer in Garands/M1a's. I have lots of web accounts of slamfires with Federal primers. Don’t use them. I recommend CCI #34's and Tula7.62 primers as they considered "Mil Spec" primers. Which means they are less sensitive than commercial primers, federal being the most sensitive commercial primer on the market. CCI claimed their standard rifle primers were made to commercial specs, but everyone considers them “harder” than other commercial brands. Don’t use Winchester, they made their primers more sensitive in 1999 with the issuance of the brass finish WLR.

When firing single shot, load from the magazine. Do not put a round in the chamber and drop the bolt. Lots of inbattery slamfires, and a few out of battery, have happened because of this. You want to slow the bolt down. When rounds feed from the magazine the friction between cartridges slows the bolt a bit.

Use powders that are close to IMR 4895 in burning rate or just use IMR 4895. High port pressures are the concern. High pressures will create excessive operating rod acceleration. The NRA used to recommend powders that have burning rates between IMR3031 and IMR4320. This includes powders such as IMR 4064, and Winchester 748. I believe the first choice of powders are IMR 4985, H4895, AA2495. In the 308 I have used a load of 168 grain Sierra Match, 41.0 to 41.5 grains IMR4895, LC cases, and CCI #34 primers OAL 2.800 for years. Basically I am looking for 2550 to 2625 fps with a 168 grain bullet.

Here are actual chronograph values at 200 yards. The muzzle velocity was probably 2600 fps. I was surprised to see how fast the velocity drops.

M1a Super Match
2-Sep-23 T = 70-76 °F

Velocities measured at 200 yards with target chronograph on electronic target.

168 Hornady BTHP Match 41.5 grs AA2495, lot 2-14-1995 (loaded 5/23) LC90 CCI#34 OAL 2.800"

Ave Vel = 2216 fps
Std Dev = 28
ES = 174
Low = 2128
High = 2302

Number rounds registered = 84

Note: Hornady BC =0.450
Calculated Muzzle velocity 2600 fps
200 yard velocity 85% of muzzle

Check cartridges for case head separation. Gas guns are hard on brass: the bolt unlocks while there is still significant chamber pressure. Because of this the case gets stretched on extraction. Carefully inspect cases for stretch ring marks at five reloads. They occur about .4” of an inch ahead of the base. You can verify if the cases are internally necking by inserting a bent paperclip in the case, and feeling for an edge. A number of shooters I have asked claim various case lives in the M1 or M1A. Some have case head separations about the fifth reload, others have taken their cases up to ten reloads. The useful lifetime of a case is determined by case head separations, case neck splitting, or primer pocket enlargement. When any one of these failure mechanisms happens to a case, it has exceeded its operational lifetime. In my experience, US military brass holds up better than commercial cases. But this is a broad generalization. You want to use heavy cases over light cases.
Very much appreciate this information. It is excellent verification for me. I am using all your steps except cleaning and reaming the primer pockets to depth. I do have a Sheridan Engineering Slotted case gauge and really like it. I am still working up loads and have tried 45 gr AA2520/168 gr SMK and have worked up some loads of 42 gr 4064/168 SMK to try. Load data came from Lyman's 49th but I do not know if these are acceptable service rifle loads. Would rather not bend an operating rod. I have a Sierra 6th Edition manual to be delivered Saturday and I'll take a look at it.
 
Very much appreciate this information. It is excellent verification for me. I am using all your steps except cleaning and reaming the primer pockets to depth. I do have a Sheridan Engineering Slotted case gauge and really like it. I am still working up loads and have tried 45 gr AA2520/168 gr SMK and have worked up some loads of 42 gr 4064/168 SMK to try. Load data came from Lyman's 49th but I do not know if these are acceptable service rifle loads. Would rather not bend an operating rod. I have a Sierra 6th Edition manual to be delivered Saturday and I'll take a look at it.

I recently shot 168 SMK 42.0 grains IMR 4064 in May, and the 200 yard velocity was less than the 41.5 grains AA2495. I considered 168 SMK with 42.5 grains IMR 4064 to be a velocity equivalent to 41.5 grs IMR 4895.

Cut your AA2520 load, 45 grs is too hot with a 168. Accurate Arms told me that they blended AA2520 to the same pressure curve as IMR 4895. So grain for grain, you will have the same velocity, with the same bullet, in 308 Win. And based on my chronograph testing, this is true. Plus or minus of course. A max load in the M1a is 41.5 grains AA2520 with a 168 and you want to be around 2575 to 2625 fps.

xfHLIM9.jpg


vRK0he3.jpg


If you are interestied in 150 grain bullets, use 42.5 grains IMR 4895/H4895/AA2495.

It is hard to improve on IMR 4895 in the 308 Win cartridge. The cartridge was developed in the 1940's with IMR 4895 as the propellant. The pressure curve is totally appropriate for the gas system. The powder used in the NM ammunition was IMR 4895, it of course was a different lot from what we can get, but that was the powder. National Match ammunition used a 174 gr FMJBT and the box value was 2550 fps. That is a good velocity with the 175 SMK.

More does not mean more in the Garand and M1a. The military picked a bullet weight and velocity based on analysis of many factors. The issue round was lethal enough. Match rifles went through many barrels, and the surviving loads were the ones that gave perfect function and outstanding accuracy. Perfect function with a gas gun cannot be emphasized enough. Gas gun ammunition has a limited operating envelope, as compared to bolt guns, and in fact, more attention has to be made to sizing, and safety. I shot with, and talked to, many a shooter who had stories of in battery slamfires and out of battery slamfires. Out of battery incidents that occurred with Government M14's and Government ammunition. A USMC Marine Team shooter told me of two Marines on his shooting team who had the bolts blow out of their M14's and into an eye. His account sure sounded like out of battery slamfires. One was severely hurt, blinded in that eye, the other was hurt, but not as badly. Other than that, Bud had no idea of what happened. Bud was just a kid, not a trained accident investigator, and it was not his job to do anything other than what his NCO told him to do. If there is a moral to the story, it is wear your shooting glasses. It must be understood that you can do every thing right, and yet still have a slamfire. And that is because we don't have a means to know just how sensitive any particular primer is in the ammunition we use.
 
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I'm in the early stages of working up loads. Purchased the M1A about a year ago and a healthy amount of factory ammo (for the LC brass seed) along with it. I now have the time, need, and interest to work up loads. IMR4064 is no where to be found right now. IMR 4895 is readily available. I was wanting to try a third powder and 4895 interests me. Read good reviews about 4895 for the M1A. I'm sticking with the Sierra 168 gr Matchkings for now. Meaning no disrespect to your advice I am going to wait until I get Sierra's 6th addition manual this week and look it over before investing in another type of powder. I know Garands and M1A's have to be babied a bit as far as ammo and reloads go. I knew that going in. But love shooting the rifle and have no regrets.
 
IMR 4895 is readily available.

Get it before it is gone. Whatever is on the shelf, does not seem to last long anymore. IMR 4895 is a very flexible powder in a wide number of cartridges. I do consider H4895 an improvement, or at least the advertising has convinced me it is an improvement. I have not seen any velocity differences over a chronograph.

My F Class tactical buds state that H4895 with a 185 Berger is a winning combination, so H4895 is doing something right.

Green is good

o0vynzV.jpg
 
Get it before it is gone. Whatever is on the shelf, does not seem to last long anymore. IMR 4895 is a very flexible powder in a wide number of cartridges. I do consider H4895 an improvement, or at least the advertising has convinced me it is an improvement. I have not seen any velocity differences over a chronograph.

My F Class tactical buds state that H4895 with a 185 Berger is a winning combination, so H4895 is doing something right.

Green is good

o0vynzV.jpg
I prefer H4895 over IMR4895 but I have loads worked up for each for my M1 Garand 30-06 ammunition in case I cannot find H4895.. The powders are not directly interchangable.
 
As mentioned, Sierra Bullets has some Service Rifle Data .Interestingly, Sierra used a Colt Match Target rifle for their development and I have one. My data matches well with the data published by Sierra.

Also, interestingly, the data does not match well for rifles with a different chamber as the Colt Match Target. I have a CMP Compass Lake A2 Service Rifle that the velocities do not come close to matching Sierra's data.

Before Accurate Powders got tossed around between several suppliers, their hard copy book (published in the mid-1990s) had service rifle loads for their powders. I have not kept up with what Western Powders has on their "on-line" load data information for Service Rifle loads.
 
I'm in the early stages of working up loads. Purchased the M1A about a year ago and a healthy amount of factory ammo (for the LC brass seed) along with it. I now have the time, need, and interest to work up loads. IMR4064 is no where to be found right now. IMR 4895 is readily available. I was wanting to try a third powder and 4895 interests me. Read good reviews about 4895 for the M1A. I'm sticking with the Sierra 168 gr Matchkings for now. Meaning no disrespect to your advice I am going to wait until I get Sierra's 6th addition manual this week and look it over before investing in another type of powder. I know Garands and M1A's have to be babied a bit as far as ammo and reloads go. I knew that going in. But love shooting the rifle and have no regrets.


When I first started loading for my Garand, I went into a gun shop over in Fort Worth, and axed the guy behind the counter for a powder to load for the Garand... he handed me a can of IMR4895, and the rest was history. It is really, really hard to go wrong with powders in the IMR4895 burn range, and that includes those powders that bracket it... IMR3031 and IMR4064, and their equivalents, depending on your bullet weight and your anticipated range.

When I started loading for my M1a, IMR4895, again, seemed the natural choice, and it has worked very well. My M1a has a 16" barrel, so I've actually gotten away from IMR4895... and moved to the faster IMR3031 for my 150grn bullets. IMR4064 is still my favorite for 168grn bullets and up, although IMR4895 works well enough, too.

As far as versatile powders that are available... I've pretty much switched to TAC. TAC works insanely well in both .308/7.62mm with all normal bullet weights, and seems to work well in the M1 Garand with 150's (so far, I've not tried 168's with TAC in the Garand, yet.) TAC is (was?) $100 cheaper per 8# than IMR powder last time I bought it. I'm not normally cheap like that, but $100 is $100. The fact that TAC delivers makes it a no-brainer.

If you are wanting to just shoot your M1a at reasonable ranges, the Service Rifle data works very well. Some say it's 'watered down' or unnecessary, I think it is reasonable data that equates to reasonable handloads for M1 or M1a pattern rifles. I don't think those rifles need to be 'babied,' per se, but reasonable attention to your handloads, and rifle maintenance will pay dividends.
 
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