reloading question
- Thread starter dusty85
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Arkansas Paul
Member
Reloading manuals are your friend.
I'm not trying to be a dick, but you should never just take loads someone recommends on the internet and load them without double checking the manual.
You ask if anyone uses Alliant Powder. Alliant is simply a company that makes powder. They make a dozen or more of them. Which one?
Also, what grain is your SWC bullet? That is very important.
Here is a link to the Alliant Reloader's guide online. It will give you recipes for different bullets and powders in each caliber. DO NOT attempt to load one in the other's case. Use .38 Spcl data for the .38 cases and .357 mag data in the .357 cases.
(Sorry if this sounds elementary, but we've had several time people asking since they're shooting them in the same gun, can they load one data in the other case).
http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/
I'm not trying to be a dick, but you should never just take loads someone recommends on the internet and load them without double checking the manual.
You ask if anyone uses Alliant Powder. Alliant is simply a company that makes powder. They make a dozen or more of them. Which one?
Also, what grain is your SWC bullet? That is very important.
Here is a link to the Alliant Reloader's guide online. It will give you recipes for different bullets and powders in each caliber. DO NOT attempt to load one in the other's case. Use .38 Spcl data for the .38 cases and .357 mag data in the .357 cases.
(Sorry if this sounds elementary, but we've had several time people asking since they're shooting them in the same gun, can they load one data in the other case).
http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/
jwrowland77
Member
I'm with Arkansas Paul, don't want to sound mean, but you may want to slow down and get a couple of manuals and read through them.
Lyman's 49th is a good one. I also like the Hornady and Sierra manuals.
Lyman's 49th is a good one. I also like the Hornady and Sierra manuals.
oldpapps
Member
Dusty,
A.P. is very correct, loading books/manuals are your friend.
But, keep in mind who wrote them. If say, Speer put the book together, who's bullets are they going to use? If Hodgdon (on-line or paper), they will utilize both Hodgdon and IMR powders, don't look for other powders to be listed.
This is why multiple books are so useful. Get many views of the same thing.
I think that Richard Lee's Modern Reloading is very good. It's not the data per-say but that it contains just about every bodies information.
I know good books are hard to find and get expensive. But what is you ER deductible? (That was a little heavy handed, I apologize.)
A.P. is very correct, loading books/manuals are your friend.
But, keep in mind who wrote them. If say, Speer put the book together, who's bullets are they going to use? If Hodgdon (on-line or paper), they will utilize both Hodgdon and IMR powders, don't look for other powders to be listed.
This is why multiple books are so useful. Get many views of the same thing.
I think that Richard Lee's Modern Reloading is very good. It's not the data per-say but that it contains just about every bodies information.
I know good books are hard to find and get expensive. But what is you ER deductible? (That was a little heavy handed, I apologize.)
plmitch
Member
Take the time to get a few reloading manuals and read them.
Arkansas Paul
Member
Also, online data sources can be good from the powder manufacturers.
hodgdon.com is great and has many recipes.
However, since you say you are very new to reloading, reading through the beginning of the manuals where it details the process would be great for you. The Speer and the Lyman manual are both great.
hodgdon.com is great and has many recipes.
However, since you say you are very new to reloading, reading through the beginning of the manuals where it details the process would be great for you. The Speer and the Lyman manual are both great.
And Winchester.
dusty85, I cannot add anything else that has not already been mentioned. As said, get some manuals and go to Alliant's web site.
oldpapps
Member
cfullgraf,
Yup, forgot Winchester powders..... Dumb of me, I use 748 and 231 and 296 all of the time (and some 630 I have stashed).
Thanks for the correction.
Yup, forgot Winchester powders..... Dumb of me, I use 748 and 231 and 296 all of the time (and some 630 I have stashed).
Thanks for the correction.
I have several pieces of advice for you that I received when I started loading:
1. Study your load data and as a new reloader, I would caution you to avoid powders that go from mild to wild in 1 grain or less. Power Pistol can be one of those powders and while I like it, I REALLY respect it.
2. Use a powder that if accidentally double charged it will overfill the case. There is nothing that will get your attention faster and make you wonder what went wrong than having a bunch of powder spilled on your bench. There are powders (like Power Pistol) that may not overfill the case and if double charged, you might end up opening your ketchup bottles with your elbow for the rest of your life.
3. Only have one powder on your bench at a time and label your measure as to what is in it. I have to believe that mixing two dissimilar powders is not a good thing.
4. There is no such thing as a dumb question. The dumb part is the person who doesn't ask questions!
Good luck, keep coming back and go get 'em
1. Study your load data and as a new reloader, I would caution you to avoid powders that go from mild to wild in 1 grain or less. Power Pistol can be one of those powders and while I like it, I REALLY respect it.
2. Use a powder that if accidentally double charged it will overfill the case. There is nothing that will get your attention faster and make you wonder what went wrong than having a bunch of powder spilled on your bench. There are powders (like Power Pistol) that may not overfill the case and if double charged, you might end up opening your ketchup bottles with your elbow for the rest of your life.
3. Only have one powder on your bench at a time and label your measure as to what is in it. I have to believe that mixing two dissimilar powders is not a good thing.
4. There is no such thing as a dumb question. The dumb part is the person who doesn't ask questions!
Good luck, keep coming back and go get 'em
gamestalker
member
My first book was the Speer #10, and I read that book so many times cover to cover, that I've had to repair binding several times. I have some others as well, and they are getting pretty ragged also.
I think You Tube is a great resource for someone to see the actual step by step process, but often times some of the most important aspects are left out. An example would be, showing someone how to trim brass with a particular tool, but they also need to know why it's necessary. There is no substitution for time spent reading the books.
So do your home work, it will pay off in the long run.
GS
I think You Tube is a great resource for someone to see the actual step by step process, but often times some of the most important aspects are left out. An example would be, showing someone how to trim brass with a particular tool, but they also need to know why it's necessary. There is no substitution for time spent reading the books.
So do your home work, it will pay off in the long run.
GS
verb0s
Member
I tried Alliant Power Pistol for 38 spl, they were less than satisfactory but they worked. Alliant Red Dot looks good too, but I haven't been able to try it since I haven't been able get powder due to shortage.
I can't share the data though, my loads are not from a book. You're new to this, you should not be using loads posted by folks on the internet without published data to back it up.
Buy a manual or use the manufacturer's online published loads. I used the online resource for a long time (first 2 years) but got a book because no serious reloader should be without a good book. By that point it was clear i wasn't reloading to save money
I highly recommend the Lyman manual, I should have gotten that instead of Lee. I find Lee's starting/max loads to be a bit higher than powder manufacturers recommend which makes me worry and Lee only covers the common calibers. Lyman manual is much more complete and more calibers than Lee. If you're only going to own one book, get the Lyman.
I can't share the data though, my loads are not from a book. You're new to this, you should not be using loads posted by folks on the internet without published data to back it up.
Buy a manual or use the manufacturer's online published loads. I used the online resource for a long time (first 2 years) but got a book because no serious reloader should be without a good book. By that point it was clear i wasn't reloading to save money
I highly recommend the Lyman manual, I should have gotten that instead of Lee. I find Lee's starting/max loads to be a bit higher than powder manufacturers recommend which makes me worry and Lee only covers the common calibers. Lyman manual is much more complete and more calibers than Lee. If you're only going to own one book, get the Lyman.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Lee's data IS the powder manufactures data.
Just from several years ago when the book went to print.
Lee has no ballistic lab, or any way to generate their own tested data.
It is all copied from powder & bullet manufactures published data of the time.
rc
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