Reloading Shopping List...Help double checking
- Thread starter Wicked
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altitude_19
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How did you pick out powders? I only ask because 4lbs seems like a bit much to have on hand before you've even tested it. If you end up hating the powder for whatever reason, you now have nearly 4 lbs of the stuff sitting around without a purpose. That's how I still have a lb of Blue Dot in my basement (didn't work well in my 38 specials).
altitude_19
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The reviews you read may pertain to loads considerably hotter or milder than your intended use (again, ask how I know). BUT, it sounds like you're on the right track. Experiment in small batches, and purchase PROVEN components in bulk. I've been meaning to say, I'm REALLY impressed with the level of detail you're putting into your plan. Reminds me of sitting in my B-hut in Afghanistan, diligently compiling $500 orders on Midway so I could start pulling the lever the minute I got back home. lol
Haha thats the plan accept Im in Kosovo for my rotation. Dont like to call it a deployment. But thanks, I appreciate it, and yes that was the plan was to read over several forums (found this one to be the most helpful) and buy the best/proven parts the first time so its hopefully a one time hit to the bank account lol.
So powdervalleyinc.com is a good place for powder and primers, unless I can find a local store with a decent price so I dont have to pay extra on the shipping.
Precision delta is good for 9mm bullets.
Where is a good place for .223 bullets?
Most of the shooting with the AR will be at about 1-200 yards, every once in awhile 4-600. But will most likely buy better ammo for the longer distance since its not often.
Precision delta is good for 9mm bullets.
Where is a good place for .223 bullets?
Most of the shooting with the AR will be at about 1-200 yards, every once in awhile 4-600. But will most likely buy better ammo for the longer distance since its not often.
blarby
Member
RMR !
Ok. I haven't read through all the posts, but here's what I've got:
First, I also started reloading on my way back from deployment. There were people here for me that were really helpful, I love the hobby. Hopefully I can pay it forward.
- Congrats on the LnL. It's a great press. I love mine. The priming system its its weakness. It works fine, but has some problems and is prone to some annoying issues. I still recommend it to anyone who asks, though.
- On the tumbler, I really liked my Frankford Arsenal kit from Midway. I really does come with everything, and has worked like a champ for me. The whole kit probably costs what your Berry's tumbler does.
- On the case prep stuff, especially the case prep center, I don't think you should buy it right away. Up to you. I think a drill is a really nice thing to have in your gun room instead, and with a Lee case length gauge and Lee (or RCBS) trimmer, you can do the trim/chamfer/deburr step all at the same time using a drill. And it costs much less for a decent drill. This is the kind of thing that I think you have a high chance of not wanting. Worth at least postponing the buy.
- For straight-wall pistol dies (including 9mm), I really like Lee dies for two reasons. First, they're less expensive and do a great job, but they also come with a shellholder, which the other companies sell for ~$8-$10 a pop. This is a no-brainer to me, but you won't go wrong with any brand.
- Why is a shellholder important, you ask? You're going to be on a progressive, after all, what do you need that for?
You may well end up wanting to buy a single stage, or turret press. The reason is that it's really nice to be able to do rifle die sizing on a separate press, and you're doing rifle, and a lot of it judging by your 8lb powder buy. When you size your rifle brass, it's going to exert a lot more pressure than pistol brass. I don't like to muscle my progressive like that, but it's no problem with my turret. I'll allow that .223 doesn't require all that much elbow grease, but if you're planning on doing much rifle, you might want to at least get a decent single stage, which could be pretty inexpensive. Hornady makes a good one that you could use the die bushings with, and it comes with free premium bullets. Or you could get a Lee. I use a Redding T7 turret press, but I do four rifle calibers, and have two other dies set up on it for regular use. If you're just planning on doing 1 or even 2 rifle calibers for the foreseeable future, I'd get a single stage.
But for each caliber, you're going to need a shellholder. Those Lee pistol dies fit a lot of rifle calibers, and each one you don't need to buy because they came with your pistol set will be money in your pocket.
For rifle dies, any brand is fine, but remember to get a shellholder if you don't have one that fits and you didn't buy Lee. I use RCBS and Lee. The dies are definitely a step up with RCBS, but as I said, I use both.
- I bought an electronic scale when I first started. The short story is that I spent a lot of money, it drove me crazy, I then bought a beam scale, and haven't, and will never, look back. The long story is that they can be really sensitive to things like the airflow and even the light in the room, and I can't tell you how frustrating it was for me as a new reloader to throw the same weight in the pan 5 times in a row and get five different readings, all in longer than it would've taken me to get the right readings on my beam scale. I bought a Dillon used for under $50. RCBS also makes a good one. I think they're the same scale. Definitely worth buying.
- You're going to want a kinectic bullet puller, which should cost ~$10-15. This is kind of like your powder funnel. It's really useful, and it's so cheap there's no excuse not to buy it. You're also going to want a caliper (electronic or dial both ok), which should be in the $30-$55 range. I use a Lyman digital, which I like. I think a caliper is an indispensible part of any reloading room, especially given the comprehensive order you're talking about making.
- Wolf primers are good. Give them a try. Only if you can find a reason you don't like them, then try something else. Otherwise, this should be your brand. Last time I checked Widener's, they had them for a song.
- For my .223 plinkers, I really like Midsouth's bulk packages of Hornady 55gr FMJs. I like Zero Bullets for 9mm FMJs. I like Missouri Bullet Company for any lead pistol. I was wary of shooting lead when I was new. I wish I had looked into it sooner (much like I wish I had started realoading sooner). It's a fraction of the price, and just as good for 99% of what I do. Maybe not for your first buy, but don't put off trying it for too long.
Hope some of this is helpful. Obviously, you know what's most important to you. Have fun and good luck.
First, I also started reloading on my way back from deployment. There were people here for me that were really helpful, I love the hobby. Hopefully I can pay it forward.
- Congrats on the LnL. It's a great press. I love mine. The priming system its its weakness. It works fine, but has some problems and is prone to some annoying issues. I still recommend it to anyone who asks, though.
- On the tumbler, I really liked my Frankford Arsenal kit from Midway. I really does come with everything, and has worked like a champ for me. The whole kit probably costs what your Berry's tumbler does.
- On the case prep stuff, especially the case prep center, I don't think you should buy it right away. Up to you. I think a drill is a really nice thing to have in your gun room instead, and with a Lee case length gauge and Lee (or RCBS) trimmer, you can do the trim/chamfer/deburr step all at the same time using a drill. And it costs much less for a decent drill. This is the kind of thing that I think you have a high chance of not wanting. Worth at least postponing the buy.
- For straight-wall pistol dies (including 9mm), I really like Lee dies for two reasons. First, they're less expensive and do a great job, but they also come with a shellholder, which the other companies sell for ~$8-$10 a pop. This is a no-brainer to me, but you won't go wrong with any brand.
- Why is a shellholder important, you ask? You're going to be on a progressive, after all, what do you need that for?
You may well end up wanting to buy a single stage, or turret press. The reason is that it's really nice to be able to do rifle die sizing on a separate press, and you're doing rifle, and a lot of it judging by your 8lb powder buy. When you size your rifle brass, it's going to exert a lot more pressure than pistol brass. I don't like to muscle my progressive like that, but it's no problem with my turret. I'll allow that .223 doesn't require all that much elbow grease, but if you're planning on doing much rifle, you might want to at least get a decent single stage, which could be pretty inexpensive. Hornady makes a good one that you could use the die bushings with, and it comes with free premium bullets. Or you could get a Lee. I use a Redding T7 turret press, but I do four rifle calibers, and have two other dies set up on it for regular use. If you're just planning on doing 1 or even 2 rifle calibers for the foreseeable future, I'd get a single stage.
But for each caliber, you're going to need a shellholder. Those Lee pistol dies fit a lot of rifle calibers, and each one you don't need to buy because they came with your pistol set will be money in your pocket.
For rifle dies, any brand is fine, but remember to get a shellholder if you don't have one that fits and you didn't buy Lee. I use RCBS and Lee. The dies are definitely a step up with RCBS, but as I said, I use both.
- I bought an electronic scale when I first started. The short story is that I spent a lot of money, it drove me crazy, I then bought a beam scale, and haven't, and will never, look back. The long story is that they can be really sensitive to things like the airflow and even the light in the room, and I can't tell you how frustrating it was for me as a new reloader to throw the same weight in the pan 5 times in a row and get five different readings, all in longer than it would've taken me to get the right readings on my beam scale. I bought a Dillon used for under $50. RCBS also makes a good one. I think they're the same scale. Definitely worth buying.
- You're going to want a kinectic bullet puller, which should cost ~$10-15. This is kind of like your powder funnel. It's really useful, and it's so cheap there's no excuse not to buy it. You're also going to want a caliper (electronic or dial both ok), which should be in the $30-$55 range. I use a Lyman digital, which I like. I think a caliper is an indispensible part of any reloading room, especially given the comprehensive order you're talking about making.
- Wolf primers are good. Give them a try. Only if you can find a reason you don't like them, then try something else. Otherwise, this should be your brand. Last time I checked Widener's, they had them for a song.
- For my .223 plinkers, I really like Midsouth's bulk packages of Hornady 55gr FMJs. I like Zero Bullets for 9mm FMJs. I like Missouri Bullet Company for any lead pistol. I was wary of shooting lead when I was new. I wish I had looked into it sooner (much like I wish I had started realoading sooner). It's a fraction of the price, and just as good for 99% of what I do. Maybe not for your first buy, but don't put off trying it for too long.
Hope some of this is helpful. Obviously, you know what's most important to you. Have fun and good luck.
Rmeju, I appreciate the reply.
I will more than likely be looking into a single stage press not too far into the future as I would like to purchase a .308 or .260 rifle sometime. As for the shellholders, why is that needed on the Lnl AP if it uses shell plates? I do understand their use on a SS though.
I will more than likely be looking into a single stage press not too far into the future as I would like to purchase a .308 or .260 rifle sometime. As for the shellholders, why is that needed on the Lnl AP if it uses shell plates? I do understand their use on a SS though.
NeuseRvrRat
Member
he was suggesting that you buy the Lee dies that come with a shellholder for a single stage. even if you're on a progressive, it's handy to have the single stage for working up loads, small test batches, fixing a primer that got seated upside down, etc. the shellholder will come in handy for that, so if you've gotta buy dies anyway, you should consider the Lee dies. they're good dies and a great value imo.
you can get a deal on an older Lee single stage if you keep an eye on craigslist, yard sales, or just get to talking to other reloaders at the range who may have some stuff they want to get rid of.
you can get a deal on an older Lee single stage if you keep an eye on craigslist, yard sales, or just get to talking to other reloaders at the range who may have some stuff they want to get rid of.
^ Exactly. You don't need the shellholders for your progressive, you need it for your single stage. I reload for, among others, .308 and 30-06 for rifle. But I didn't need to buy a shellholder for either caliber even though I bought RCBS dies that came with no shellholder. The .45acp shellholder that came with my Lee pistol dies took care of that for me.
Two other things I forgot to mention in my previous post that I think you might want... an RCBS lockout die ($50, but worth it for a good double check on your powder, IMHO) and a Lee universal decapping die. I find that I'm constantly using both of those items, even though neither is technically speaking a "must have." The lockout die only works for pistol calibers, FYI.
Two other things I forgot to mention in my previous post that I think you might want... an RCBS lockout die ($50, but worth it for a good double check on your powder, IMHO) and a Lee universal decapping die. I find that I'm constantly using both of those items, even though neither is technically speaking a "must have." The lockout die only works for pistol calibers, FYI.
Good to know about the lockout die. So would a different powder cop type die be beneficial or just keep an eye on the .223 since the load goes basically to the shoulder.
Lee Universal Decapping Die - What is the benefit of this since most die sets come with a size/deprime?
Lee Universal Decapping Die - What is the benefit of this since most die sets come with a size/deprime?
jdownj
Member
I like the universal die for decapping and sorting a bunch of random range brass... Sweep it up... Deprime/initial sorting, tumble, then size...
altitude_19
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I'd recommend establishing a rhythm that includes checking powder charge, like you said. It may be helpful to put a small light on the press to facilitate. One idea is those little Nova keychain lights you can get in the BX/PX. I always had one hanging on the button hole of my utilities and have thought about just slapping some velcro on the back of it and putting it on the press to watch charges while reloading. Others use christmas lights or custom fabricate something.
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