Rem 700 police. how often to remove stock for cleaning?

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Blowingsky

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I am in the middle of a 10 day wait (no snickering please from those living in Free States) for a standard Remington 700 police, new, made in 2009. Reading the manual online, which only discusses the 700 in general, it says that when cleaning the gun after shooting to also take the receiver out of the stock and spray and lube the trigger group.

Isn't taking the receiver out of the stock on a "precision" rifle like this (aluminum block receiver bed and floating barrel) something done only once in a while? Also, it mentions when tightening the stock screws after reinsertion to do it hand tight for the synthetic stock but gives the torque pounds for other stocks. True?

I appreciate any data on this. Thanks.

Peter
 
How often you should do it certainly is a matter of opinion, and I'm sure people have a variety of ideas about that. Personally I do it about twice a year on mine. Although I haven't had any issues, taking off the stock and retorqueing it could afffect your zero. So if you did it every time your zero would always be in question.
Last I saw the torque value was 65 in lbs.
 
Thanks. I figured as much. I'm hoping that whatever stock it is that I actually have will be resistant to wear from having the stock taken off now and again.
 
The Remington 700P w/26" heavy barrel is bedded into the stock. If it shoots true then don't remove it.

I have shot a couple of hundred rounds through mine and have not needed to remove the barrel or trigger group from the stock. a simple cleaning after shooting of the barrel and chamber is fine.

I get clover groups @ 100 yards.

Congrats.
 
Once in a blue moon, or if you spilled your coffee on it.lol hehehe

When you get that thing...strip all the oil off of it with a non petroleum degreaser and get yourself some paste wax, yup, the same stuff you put on that old truck of yours, or spray some BoeShield T-9 on it and reassemble.

The wax or the BoeShield will last forever under the stock.

The trigger need not be lubed but once every few years if not subjected to harsh environments.
 
thanks all. how about torque pounds if I reassemble? Has it changed to "hand tight" or is it still 65 lbs.?

I swear this California 10 day wait period is driving me crazy...which is kind of ironic in a way...
 
It's a lot of money to invest, but if you anticipate action removal a lot, these are worth having.

http://www.seekonk.com/torqstart.html

Finding them on the used market helps the pocketbook. You might consider a 55 in lbs and a 65 in lbs. I have both, thanks to ebay. Had em so long, I can't remember what I paid, but it seems less than $50 for both of em, from the same seller.

I've used both torques from time to time at different action screws to tweak a rifle, sometimes it helped sometimes not.
 
how about torque pounds if I reassemble? Has it changed to "hand tight" or is it still 65 lbs.?

From the Remington folks: Remington PSS, VS, Sendero ect. Synthetic Stock with Aluminum Bedding Block.
Front Bolt: Non-Magnum.... 40 INCH Pounds
Rear Bolt: Non-Magnum.... 40 INCH Pounds

The M-24 is the only unit, so we are told by Remington, that torques to 65 lb/in.

The aluminum block of the dedicated M-24 stocks are matched to the receivers of said rifles. The aluminum blocks of the PSS are batch machined and may not sit 100% flat on the bottom of the receiver...65 lb/in. may bend the receiver. Also the screws are different.

There is a sequence for tightening the bolts. To offer a synopsis... torque front bolt first, then rear bolt in 3 equal stages until you reach the recommended torque value.
Kinda like torquing a flange bolt pattern.

In your case, first torque is to 10 lb/in. then 20 lb/in. then the final amount of 40 lb/in.

We have seen owners manuals that say to torque the PSS, VS, ect to 65 lb/in. if you have one of these manuals call Remington and see what they say, we have gotten conflicting answers from them on receiver torque values but the above came from engineering so...
 
I'm looking at a M700 VSF manual, generic to all models with or without floor plate or with or without detach magazine. Not specific to an aluminum bed.

It states: Front screw 55-60 inch lbs, middle screw 40-45 inch lbs, rear screw 15-20 inch lbs.

This manual is from one of the first x-mark trigger rifles.

I guess when dealing in volume, the manufacturer takes the one size fits all approach, in creating manuals.
 
When I know my tack-driver 22-250 is sighted right in the way I want it, I don't like pulling off the barrel.

For that reason, I don't take the gun in the rain at all, and it is always in my dry house.

I feel like, if I am going to remove the barrel, then I want to go back to the 200 yard range to make sure I am still right on ZERO!

I don't really like having to do that, because for me to ZERO that gun, I like to pick a day that is PERFECTLY CALM!

There are not too many perfectly calm days here. Some days when I think it is, and have driven the 10 miles or so (on dirt roads) to the range, I would get there and what was calm at home sure wasn't calm at the range!

Really, Automotive Paste Wax? I think I would try that on a piece of bare metal just to be sure before trying it on one of my guns.
 
Not typically but it's a good idea to check them once in a while. For 200yd and beyond shooting I plan on having to make minor adjustments based on wind conditions every day shooting. 300yd benchrest matches are full of folks scrambling to sight in before every match because of varying conditions. It's not uncommon for me to move several inches from where I was zeroed from the last match.
 
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