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Remington 700 and 7

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I'm no expert, but I believe that the Rem Model 7 has a shorter and lighter receiver. It was an attempt by Remington to reproduce the basic 700 action in a smaller more compact package that would be ideal for mountain guns and for youth/women. Remington briefly considered it for the LTR but decided that a sniper rifle should be beefier (and more stable).
 
Rem Mod. 7 & 700

The Model 7 is a 20" barreled short action only rifle that balances quite well. My 7mm08 is my go to rifle out to 250 yards. It' available in .223 Rem.,.243 Win.,.260 Rem.,7mm08 Rem., and .308 Win.
The Model 700 encompasses the standard, specialty and varmint rifles and can go from a 20" bar. youth model to 26" Varmint rifles and go from .17 Rem. to .375 H&H Mag or practically anything in between.
 
Is the Model 7 action merely based on the 700, or is it more or less a copy?

I was considering a Model 7, but those laminated wood stocks look awful chintzy to me. Just my taste.
 
Mod 7

Mulliga, It's a mod. 700 through and through just an abbreviated version that ,to me, balances better and points quicker. Your right the laminated stock is just a taste thing . I like 'em for looks, weight(heavier than the synthetic or the older walnut), and the stability in rough weather. As a hunting rifle it's what I want.


Edit: Perhaps I misunderstood your question -The mod 7 and 700 are identical in quality and basic function however they will not exchange parts.
 
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Well, they're undoubtedly related and borne from the same mother :D , but I do see enough differences that it might not be considered "the same." You can download the owners' manual from Remington and look at the exploded parts diagrams and see some differences. For instance, the rear bridge is shorter, and holds only one mount screw hole, instead of two. The trigger guard/flooplate assemblies are different.

Additionally, I understand the M7 was based upon the old M600/660, which was an XP-100 variant, though I don't know how they relate to the M700.

Again, they're probably close, but I wouldn't buy one and expect to use parts interchageably from the other.

Jaywalker
 
Jaywalker nailed it. The M7's action is based on the XP100 bolt action "pistol", which was a derivative of the earlier 600/660. The M7 is 1/2" shorter than a short action M700, which helps contribute to the M7's reputation for being short and handy. I have a few of them, and they are really quick to get into action. I've handled a few that had a shorter than standard length of pull (13" vs. 13-1/2"), which really does help get them up quickly, but, also contributes to getting whacked by the scope's eyepiece if you're not careful. A few extra spacers between the recoil pad and the stock, or, a thicker recoil pad, helps a lot.

As JW noted, the receiver is drilled/tapped for three scope mounting holes (2 front/1 rear) which means you have to use a one piece base.

The trigger adjusting procedure is the same as the M700's.

R-WEST
 
nope, not anymore...

the new m7's are drilled and tapped w/ 2 front, 2 rear. makes much more sense to be able to use ultra-light talleys (2-piece), rather than be saddled w/ a 1-piece anything for the 7... thus, all new m7's have 4 holes. older ones (like the one i have), is 3-hole.
 
Do you know if the 4-holers will take the same rear base as the M700? That'd be tidy.

The Talley lightweights ARE light, but, I got a set to try, and they just look clunky to me. To each his own, I guess. To me, Warne's "7.3" series are really the way to go. Similar to Weavers, but some kind of high-tech super light steel, with a four screw saddle type top ring. I have a few and really like 'em.

R-WEST
 

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The Model 7 is the same basic action as the XP-100 and the Model 600/660. The actual chronology was the XP-100 pistol, then the Model 600/660 rifles, then the Model 7.

Jim
 
no, the 4-holers will not take a 700 rear base. i think the fronts are interchangeable.

the rear bridge on a 7 is significantly smaller than a 700. therefore, the holes are closer together. also, the rear base for a m7 is shaped differently ('built-up') so that it can get the scope centered. a one-piece rem 700 base will go onto a rem m7, but don't do it. you will bend the base really bad, stress the receiver, and then either listen to the 'smith laugh at you when he discovers the mistaken base, or decide the gun won't group, and sell it at a huge loss...

in fact, that is how i came across my first m7... guy said it wouldn't group at all. nothing worked, and handloads didn't do well either. sold it to me for $100 w/ rings and bases (no scope). i shjot it, and thought maybe i'd been 'taken', but before getting bent, i wanted to try a few things... so, i pulled the scope and rings... then, had to wrestle w/ the base forever, after a couple of days of wrestling w/ the bases, i finally got the rear screw out, and the rear of the base just popped up (back to level). further inspection revealed it was a m700 base. so, i corrected the base problem, and put the gun back together, and had a bona fide shooter... so, i glass bedded the rifle, and worked the trigger over, and voila! i have a light, compact rifle that shoots far better than it should.

so, yeah, the base does matter.
 
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