remington 700 reciever?

[nastynatesfish]

I got my reamers in the mail today, got my barrel last week. Went to a buddys who has the action wrench and barrel vise. Pulled everything off the rifle and started to remove barrel. Sooo, my rifle came with factory installed 2 piece mounts long story short. The threads in my reciever got marred a bit, not real bad, but marred non the less. My question is where can I get a tap 16X63/64 to clean the first 4-5 threads up? Ill call remington tomorrow and see about renting one, but customer service is closed and THR never is. Honestly I think you get better info here anyhow. Thanks in advance for any answers.

 

[dirtyjim]

brownells has the correct tap for around $75. pn 080-598-116AC

if the threads aren't very badly galled you can take a spare junk barrel and cut several flutes in it like a tap then coat it with lapping compound and lap the gallled area out

 

[nastynatesfish]

See that's awesome. Thanks jim ill look throught my book. By the way that post just made google search lol. Thanks

 

[rcmodel]

Save your phone call.

Remington will definately not loan you a receiver thread tap!

Try what Jim said, and if that don't work out, you will have to buy or rent a tap.

get a tap 16X63/64

The receiver thread is 1 1/16" x 16 TPI.

rc

 

[nastynatesfish]

Noplace I've tried rents taps. I called midway usa and got it ordered for 77 and change. Thanks again

 

[30BR]

If you can stop your order, call MSC, or go to mscdirect.com and see what they have. I bought one several years ago, and it sure didn't cost 77 bucks.

 

[nastynatesfish]

30br I checked that website and they want 86-110 for there taps. Thanks for the suggestion though.

 

[Mac's Precision]

RC...

I am too slow to post....as you normally write my answer for me.

Yes....1 1/16 x 16 tap.

Nasty....

It is normally a good idea to clean up the threads before you barrel anyway. The folks in production use tooling for a while till dull so the threads you have may be a bit under size. Remember that a new tap cuts really well and to full dimension so you might be surprised at how much material you get out.

Be sure you have the receiver in your lathe and dialed in true. Follow the tap with the tail stock and be sure everything is centered. You don't want to bugger the threads up getting the tap started off center. Be sure you clean the receiver threads before you thread the barrel. You want a nice class 3A thread fit.

Cheers
Mac.

 

[nastynatesfish]

While I'm waiting on my tap to get here, I opened the stock for the heavy barrel. The barrel bedding tool works awesome, wish I would have got it sooner. I was also thinking abou buying the stuff to true the reciever face. Do you think it would be worth it. Its a hunting rifle that ill be shooting targets with in off season. The rifle was plenty accurate before, maybe I should chuck the new barrel and check the shoulder for true too huh? Just wondering

 

[dirtyjim]

with a remington truing the face cant hurt.
regardless of the type of action used i true them the same way.
i take a chunk of 3/4" rod about 15" long and turn it between centers until it will has a slip fit through the action.then i drill & tap a 1/4-20 hole through it about midways for the hold down clamp.
slide the newly made mandrel through the action and then take a piece if 1"x1/8" thick flatbar about 1" long and drill a 1/4" hole directly in the center of it. a 1/4-20 bolt will pass through the flatbar clamping the action to the mandrel through the magwell.

i then set up the mandrel between centers on my lathe and take a light facing cut on the face of the receiver.

as far as checking the barrel goes if you don't have a rear spider on your lathe it would be very difficult to get it dialed in.
i made my spider from a plumbing fitting and some 1/4" set screws

 

[Mac's Precision]

I true up every action I fit a new barrel to. There is little point in going to all the effort of fitting a new barrel properly then screwing it to an ill fitting receiver face. I would suggest that you square the face, tap the threads, square the lugs and lap them properly to assure a good and equal bearing surface. You will want to assure that you have better than 90% of the lugs are bearing on the action equally on both sides. Make VERY sure that you properly wash out all the lapping compound after lapping.

As for the barrel it should be installed THRU the lathe bore and dialed in with the axis of the bore. You will need snug fitting plug gages that fit the bore to zero with. You must use an outboard spindle spider and zero that end as well. Once properly dialed in you want to strive for zero run out at both breech and muzzle ends.

You should thread for an optimal zero tolerance fit. Test fit between cuts and DON'T forget to put a little anti seize on the threads when test fitting. You don't want to get it to stick and gall when removing it. You want a minimal thread fit that JUST screws on..NO slop side to side. You can get it...just don't rush and only take .0005" per pass on the last few passes to get that nice high quality 3A fit.

When you allow for the bolt ring clearance in the barrel...allow .002 in diameter and .005 in depth. You don't want to go too shallow on recess depth as a little powder residue will prevent bolt closing. The fit of the bolt projection ring into the barrel shank is critical when you are attempting to rebarrel and keep the "safety breech" aspect in tact. Too loose of tolerance in this area is defeating the safety breech as gasses will escape around the bolt face should you experience a cartridge failure. The strength of the Remington comes from the "Three rings of steel" design.

You should (Using the dies you intend to use)full length size a cartridge case of the proper caliber for THAT rifle. Use that to set your head space. Verify that factory loads will chamber with zero head space. Allow about .002 on head space with a piece of scotch tape. Once you cinch up your barrel you will experience a bit of thread stretch and your head space will achieve zero with the scotch tape removed. Ideally you will get just a tad of lug drag as it locks up. Once done you should make sure that a SAAMI chamber "go" gauge will go.

I don't shoot chamber gauges as much as I do live cartridges so I like to chamber to the dimensions of the cartridges to be used in THAT gun with dimensions from THE dies for that gun. Often it will be a tighter chamber that way..but you must verify that factory loads will properly fit as well. That said I have done several chambers for target guns that will never see factory loads. I fit the chambers to their brass every time to achieve the tightest match grade fit possible.

Apply a smear of anti seize on the bearing surface of the lugs and work it several times to bed the anti seize into the lugs and action. Leave that compound in the action and on the lugs. Reapply it each time you clean the rifle. Now that you have a snug head space and properly lapped lugs...there is no reason to risk galling them. I put anti seize (not a lot...just a smear) on the lugs of every bolt gun I work on.

You might wish to think about the following since you are working on the stock. I would suggest that you check in the Brownell's catalog and buy an oversize lug from one of the various makers. Holland's makes a great one that I like a lot. It is pinned to prevent rotation and is very thick. You simply have to allow for that added thickness when you cut the shoulder on the barrel shank. A properly fit barrel lug that is properly glassed in will assure repeat quality groups. If you are going to go to the effort to free float the barrel and install an oversize lug..then think about pillar bedding. You can then comfortably torque the action into the stock at 65 inch pounds to assure even pressure on the for and aft ends of the action.

Cheers
Mac.