Remington Action Blueprinting

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BADUNAME27

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Just thought I'd share this for no other reason than good conversation.

Enjoy,

Chad

How I tune up a Remmy 700 action:

Step one begins with indicating the receiver raceways parallel to machine table. Parallelism is held to within .0005” across a 7/8” span. This is done primarily for the operation where the recoil lug gets pinned to the receiver face ensuring it is square to the vertical centerline of the action.

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Next begins the task of ensuring the receiver bore centerline is parallel with the “Z” axis of the machine. Parallelism is established on both the “X” and “Y” machine axis by adjusting the chuck base to ensure the action is pointing “straight up”. The receiver bore is then centered to the spindle as all the tool paths datum from the center of the receiver’s bore.

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With set up complete the first machine operation begins with a clean up pass of the receiver ring, the lug surfaces, and establishing the minor bore diameter for the new threads that come later.

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Next is using the power of CNC and “circular hole interpolation” (thread milling) to machine the new receiver threads perfectly round, perfectly concentric to center, and perfectly parallel to the receiver bore centerline. The set up for picking up the existing factory thread is a carefully developed proprietary process that ensures the new threads are properly timed with the existing ones to mitigate double tracking. The finish operation involves an endmill that counter bores the top thread and “scallops” the lead thread to a full thread form over a .125” radius. This completely eliminates the very thin and weak initial thread created by traditional lathe methods.

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The last operation is to drill, ream, and chamfer the pin holes for the lug register pins and to machine a light chamfer on the inside receiver ring. The internal receiver features are now square, concentric, and parallel to the receiver bore centerline. Material removal is determined by the type of wear/abuse the receiver has seen during previous service use. Typically it requires no more than .005”. It is important to minimize the amount of stock removal as it greatly affects the primary extraction feature of the action when assembled.

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this covers the bulk of the receiver work. From this point its mainly adding features to the receiver. An external bolt release, enlarging scope base holes to 8-40, and putting the final fluff and buff on the receiver before it goes to get blued/coated/plated, etc.

The bolt is trued using a combination of lathe and mill operations and a sako style extractor is installed along with helical flutes to improve cosmetics and give grit and grime someplace to go so that it doesn't chew up the receiver bore. last is installing a new fire control system that I make. It encloses the cocking piece and threads of the shroud are indiviually fitted to the receiver, making for a nice minimal tolerance fit to get rid of some of the vibration normally created. Helps a guy get smaller groups from the gun. A new striker, cocking piece, and striker spring are also installed. The springs are a high silicon chromium steel that delivers a good smack and has a long service life.

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thanks for your interest.


Cheers and all the best,

Chad

Chad Dixon
LongRifles, Inc.
 
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Well, that backfired.



One post? Really?

Ok, here's a few more. This is my drop in fire control system that anyone at home with reasonable mechanical aptitude can install.

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Tools required are a pair of calipers, allen wrenches, a penny (for removing the factory fire control), and about a half hour of time.

Shrouds are fully CNC machined from 8620 tool steel, the strikers are CNC machined from stress proof 4130 chromoly, and the striker springs are a high chromium/silicon material that comes from the planet Venus.

Enjoy.

C
 
Chad,

Your work is beautiful!

I used to teach machining/manufacturing @WMU, and seeing your work really makes me miss my shop. :( Many evenings spent hunched over the lathe and next to the mill, while listening to music and knocking out my projects... I had a nice little custom job business going for a while there too.

Keep up the good work, and we'll keep checking it out!
 
Thanks. Just finished up some gauging for an ammunition company here in the black hills. 50 5.56mm Nato chambers in a piece of 1080 steel. It's a chamber gauge for part of their final inspection process. Invasive dentistry without anesthesia is a fair comparison. What a pain in the butt to make!

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Here's a few of my fixtures that I used for stock work.

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The whole shebang is 150.00. This is for a Remington 700 in standard length.


1 Striker made from stress proof steel (stressproof is a version of 4140 chromoly that makes it easier to machine long, small diameter parts, straight.)
2 Striker Spring made from high silicon chromium steel wire. (Good stuff! Same as what endurance autoracing valve springs are made from)
3 Fully enclosed bolt Shroud made from bar stock 8620 tool steel. (Way way overkill for a silly bolt shroud but who cares right?)
4 Cocking piece machined from 4140 chromoly and heat treated to 52-55 Rockwell C.

If you do this at home you will need access to a drill press. The striker screws into the cocking piece allowing you to set the striker "fall" or travel. Once you set this length you need to spot face the striker where the set screw goes. This is so that the set screw doesn't booger up the threads. This is CRITICAL because failure to do so will ruin the striker and the cocking piece if you ever try to take it apart.

It's a very simple procedure and full instructions will be illustrated on my website here shortly.

For an extra 30 bucks you can send me your bolt and I will build and fit a cocking piece specifically to it. The Remington threads can vary a bit so doing it this way is the best solution I've found. All I need is the bolt and the turn around time is just a few days. In benchrest circles the fit between a bolt and the cocking piece is a popular topic of conversation. The tighter the fit generally the better. Obviously it can easily get to a point of diminishing returns as well. What I do is use cutter comp in the CNC lathe to incrementally bring the thread's pitch diameter to a close match on the bolt. Then polish the snot out of it so that it runs nice and smooth. The idea behind this is mitigating the vibration of the fire control when the sear releases the cocking piece. The improvements in accuracy are well documented in the benchrest community.


As a "The High Road" special I will waive the $30 bucks if you can get 5 or more folks to go in on this with you. We'll call it a group purchase This really is the best way to do it because then your truly getting a "blueprinted" fire control set up. All I need is the bolt. Don't have to send the action or the gun. Just be sure to include your return shipping information and a phone number/email. Any typical method of payment is acceptable. Personal Checks, Money Orders, and CC. (CC are done over the phone)

If yer interested, just gimme a buzz.

I have all the parts in stock and ready to ship if you want the "do it yourself" set up.

Cheers and all the best,


Chad
 
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What do you think of the PTG 700 replacement bolts? I've got a left hand action that I picked up that had a damaged bolt. I've been accumulating parts for a while and am nearly ready to move on to the next phase.
 
What do you think of the PTG 700 replacement bolts? I've got a left hand action that I picked up that had a damaged bolt. I've been accumulating parts for a while and am nearly ready to move on to the next phase.

David Kiff is the owner of Pacific Tool and Gauge. David and I have been colleagues and friends for over ten years. ANY product from this company is a winner.

I will not chamber a gun barrel with anything but a PTG reamer. On my site under services I have a little yarn that explains why in greater detail.
 
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