Remington model 11 questions
- Thread starter meh92
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My Rem 11, circa 1935, 95% except for very cheesy homemade recoil pad, was mine for $150 in 2004 and I'm glad to have got it even though a 20ga full choke long barrel shotgun has little use for me but I could not pass it at the price and I like the classic humpback look.
Maybe a Bonnie Parker remake is in it's future
Maybe a Bonnie Parker remake is in it's future
M-11 comes home
I went and picked up the gun yesterday. Overall it is in really good condition (no safe queen) for a gun made in 1939! It has its shares of minor nicks and scratches, but the blueing is original and in decent shape. The tang screw hole is buggered up as unfortunately someone used an oversizes screwdriver to take off the stock. Other than that, it's cosmetically very nice. I had been thinking about refinishing it (before I got a hold of it) but that won't be necessary.
The furniture doesn not appear to be original, but both pieces are in excellent condition with no cracks anywhere.
The bore is mirror bright and does not appear to have been "honed."
Using the excellent Patrick Sweeney Gunsmithing: Shotguns and Brownells's Encyclopedia of Modern Firearms, Parts and Assembly, Vol. I, book I completely detail stripped the gun, with the exception of the receiver-mounted shell latches. Everything else came comlpetely apart. The parts were pretty dirty and had ancient dried oil/grease all over. After two careful hours (I didn't want to rush things) with Hoppes #9 the gun was ready for lube and reassembly. The gun was lubed per the Brownells book and given a function check. Anyone who has ever used the Brownells books knows that they are absolutely excellent reference materials with every bit of gunsmithing/maintenance/diagnostic info you could ever want.
The M-11 doesn't seem to be all that complicated of a gun to disassemble and reassemble, but the first time through I really took my time, checking for any damage and carefully labelling the parts for easy reassembly. The next time around it shouldn't take nearly that much time.
Although everything seems to be in good working order, I'll be ordering all new springs and friction rings just to be on the safe side. Then, it's off to the range for some fun. Thanks to everyone for the help and suggestions.
I went and picked up the gun yesterday. Overall it is in really good condition (no safe queen) for a gun made in 1939! It has its shares of minor nicks and scratches, but the blueing is original and in decent shape. The tang screw hole is buggered up as unfortunately someone used an oversizes screwdriver to take off the stock. Other than that, it's cosmetically very nice. I had been thinking about refinishing it (before I got a hold of it) but that won't be necessary.
The furniture doesn not appear to be original, but both pieces are in excellent condition with no cracks anywhere.
The bore is mirror bright and does not appear to have been "honed."
Using the excellent Patrick Sweeney Gunsmithing: Shotguns and Brownells's Encyclopedia of Modern Firearms, Parts and Assembly, Vol. I, book I completely detail stripped the gun, with the exception of the receiver-mounted shell latches. Everything else came comlpetely apart. The parts were pretty dirty and had ancient dried oil/grease all over. After two careful hours (I didn't want to rush things) with Hoppes #9 the gun was ready for lube and reassembly. The gun was lubed per the Brownells book and given a function check. Anyone who has ever used the Brownells books knows that they are absolutely excellent reference materials with every bit of gunsmithing/maintenance/diagnostic info you could ever want.
The M-11 doesn't seem to be all that complicated of a gun to disassemble and reassemble, but the first time through I really took my time, checking for any damage and carefully labelling the parts for easy reassembly. The next time around it shouldn't take nearly that much time.
Although everything seems to be in good working order, I'll be ordering all new springs and friction rings just to be on the safe side. Then, it's off to the range for some fun. Thanks to everyone for the help and suggestions.
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Dave McCracken
Moderator In Memoriam
Great!! I love happy endings. Go shoot it....
Mossyrock
Member
Neat gun! You have to love that rust bluing....it shines with a very unique glow that is beautiful, subdued, classy and not garish.
Range Report
I was able to locate a source of original Remington replacement parts and decided to give it an overhaul before shooting it. An internet acquaintance of mine had bought out a Remington armorer many years ago and he still had some of the parts I needed. I kept the old ones for back-ups.
I replaced several springs (recoil, action, FP, magazine, carrier, and extractor); the friction spring assembly and ring, and some buggered screws. The recoil buffer and rivot were in good condition so I left those alone, but have a spare just in case.
I headed off to a local indoor range with some Winchester 00 buck and 1600 FPS slugs. The recoil setting was placed on "heavy." I had treated the magazine tube's exterior with Rem-Oil in the beginning of November but by yeaterday, it had evaporated away and was dry.
The gun worked pretty well with the full-power stuff and seemed like almost shooting a 20 ga. A friend offered about 10 rounds of reduced-recoil tactical buck but it would not eject empty shells. After about 30 rounds we set the gun aside to cool and shoot some other guns. We came back to the Model 11about a half hour later and it was completely cooled off. When I loaded it up with the full-power Winchester 00 buck, it would not eject empty shells. I placed just a few drops of FP-10 on the mag tube, right at the friction spring assembly and the gun was up and running perfectly for the rest of the session. We shot about 50 more round of Winchester 00 buck and slugs without a single malfunction. As a test, we let it cool down once more to try to duplicate the previous ejection problem, but the gun continued working perfectly.
I did notice a slight increase in recoil after I added the oil, but that makes sense since the friction ring would loose some of it's "bite" in the oil. It wasn't brutal, but it did increase felt recoil a little. It's still much nicer to shoot than an 870, as the long-recoil system seems to soak up quite a bit of felt recoil. Keep in mind we were shooting full power buck and slugs and the gun only has a hard (factory) buttplate.
I had read on another forum that the Model 11/Auto 5 mag tube is to be left bone dry. The Rem-Oil on it had evaporated, hopefully leaving behind a little Teflon. That seemed to work for a while, but eventually led to problems. I'll make sure to keep a light coating of FP-10 on the tube from here on out.
The gun has what I believe to be a cyl. choke and an 18" barrel. At 60 feet, the gun consistantly grouped Winchester 9-pellet oo buck inside the torso of a man-sized target. It grouped about the size of the head at 40 feet out. POI for the slugs was about 6" high at 60 feet.
Overall I really like the gun and it will easily find a place on my "never sell" list.
I was able to locate a source of original Remington replacement parts and decided to give it an overhaul before shooting it. An internet acquaintance of mine had bought out a Remington armorer many years ago and he still had some of the parts I needed. I kept the old ones for back-ups.
I replaced several springs (recoil, action, FP, magazine, carrier, and extractor); the friction spring assembly and ring, and some buggered screws. The recoil buffer and rivot were in good condition so I left those alone, but have a spare just in case.
I headed off to a local indoor range with some Winchester 00 buck and 1600 FPS slugs. The recoil setting was placed on "heavy." I had treated the magazine tube's exterior with Rem-Oil in the beginning of November but by yeaterday, it had evaporated away and was dry.
The gun worked pretty well with the full-power stuff and seemed like almost shooting a 20 ga. A friend offered about 10 rounds of reduced-recoil tactical buck but it would not eject empty shells. After about 30 rounds we set the gun aside to cool and shoot some other guns. We came back to the Model 11about a half hour later and it was completely cooled off. When I loaded it up with the full-power Winchester 00 buck, it would not eject empty shells. I placed just a few drops of FP-10 on the mag tube, right at the friction spring assembly and the gun was up and running perfectly for the rest of the session. We shot about 50 more round of Winchester 00 buck and slugs without a single malfunction. As a test, we let it cool down once more to try to duplicate the previous ejection problem, but the gun continued working perfectly.
I did notice a slight increase in recoil after I added the oil, but that makes sense since the friction ring would loose some of it's "bite" in the oil. It wasn't brutal, but it did increase felt recoil a little. It's still much nicer to shoot than an 870, as the long-recoil system seems to soak up quite a bit of felt recoil. Keep in mind we were shooting full power buck and slugs and the gun only has a hard (factory) buttplate.
I had read on another forum that the Model 11/Auto 5 mag tube is to be left bone dry. The Rem-Oil on it had evaporated, hopefully leaving behind a little Teflon. That seemed to work for a while, but eventually led to problems. I'll make sure to keep a light coating of FP-10 on the tube from here on out.
The gun has what I believe to be a cyl. choke and an 18" barrel. At 60 feet, the gun consistantly grouped Winchester 9-pellet oo buck inside the torso of a man-sized target. It grouped about the size of the head at 40 feet out. POI for the slugs was about 6" high at 60 feet.
Overall I really like the gun and it will easily find a place on my "never sell" list.
Brian Dale
Member
Welcome, 1917.
a bit off-topic, i know.. but since you guys are talking 11s..
i was given my g'pa's old trench gun from the war. the wood is perfect. original blue. no rust. gov't markings. it's missing the barrel (told by 'smith that it would be $100).
1. anyone know where i can get the appropriate barrel?
2. anyone know of where i can find the value of the gun?
i don't have any guns in my house.. so i'd rather sell it to someone who would appreciate it.
let me know? thanks, guys.
jason
fresno ca
[email protected]
i was given my g'pa's old trench gun from the war. the wood is perfect. original blue. no rust. gov't markings. it's missing the barrel (told by 'smith that it would be $100).
1. anyone know where i can get the appropriate barrel?
2. anyone know of where i can find the value of the gun?
i don't have any guns in my house.. so i'd rather sell it to someone who would appreciate it.
let me know? thanks, guys.
jason
fresno ca
[email protected]
Fred Fuller
Moderator Emeritus
kaj,
Shotguns with US markings (be they trench guns, riot guns or training guns) bring some pretty high interest from collectors these days. I'd suggest you do a little homework- try http://www.brucecanfield.com/books.html , www.jouster.com/cgi-bin/milshotgun/shotgun.pl?noframes;#12109 , http://www.gunbroker.com/ etc for more information.
hth,
lpl
Shotguns with US markings (be they trench guns, riot guns or training guns) bring some pretty high interest from collectors these days. I'd suggest you do a little homework- try http://www.brucecanfield.com/books.html , www.jouster.com/cgi-bin/milshotgun/shotgun.pl?noframes;#12109 , http://www.gunbroker.com/ etc for more information.
hth,
lpl
I was looking at additional commercial barrels for my M11 several months back and I saw them in the $100-$150 range on the auctions sites Lee mentioned. However, I was not looking for one with the military ordnance stampings. That could definitely make finding one more difficult and more expensive. Considering the family history of your gun, I think the investment would be worth it.
This an very interresting thread. I am also interested in getting an remington modell 11, but unforutnatelly I wasn't able to find one yet here in austria. But I will keep one seraching
. It would be no problem to get an browning auto 5 at a very good condition, but only the 20 gauge model. An 12 gauge model would be the better choice.
Greetings from austria.
. It would be no problem to get an browning auto 5 at a very good condition, but only the 20 gauge model. An 12 gauge model would be the better choice.Greetings from austria.
DMR
Member
Any of the experts able to date my military finish? Ser#497XXX ?
Thanks
Thanks
35Rem
Member
http://www.remingtonsociety.com/rsa/questions/barrelcodes
See above for Remington date information.
Based on the serial number, before August 1943, after June 1942. It is in the right range for WWII production.
See above for Remington date information.
Based on the serial number, before August 1943, after June 1942. It is in the right range for WWII production.
You are right about Clyde Barrow using an Auto Five. Clydes not only had a barrel that was sawed off in front of the magazine cap but the buttstock was shortened as well just behind the wrist area. I've seen pictures of this shotgun. It is ugly looking but I'm sure it must have been devastating at close range. Clyde probably discovered this unfortunately more than a few times.
Hey there I think I have a model 11 but its made under browning pats? Here are some pics of it.... How much are they worht because I would like to trade it for a rifle.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll253/cracker121_bucket/rem3.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll253/cracker121_bucket/rem2.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll253/cracker121_bucket/rem1.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll253/cracker121_bucket/rem3.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll253/cracker121_bucket/rem2.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll253/cracker121_bucket/rem1.jpg
35Rem
Member
Value: Probably not more than $300 in really good condition. What is the barrel length and choke? Condition and original configuration are very important. Has a recoil pad been added or the tock ever cut? Length of pull (dist from trigger to buttplate) should be 14 1/4"
Brotherhoodarms
Member
Does anyone have anymore info about adapting a 870 extension tube to the Model 11.
I would really like to do this to my sportsman But All I have read is that it needs an 1/8 adapter
Confused???
Thanks for the help!
I would really like to do this to my sportsman But All I have read is that it needs an 1/8 adapter
Confused???
Thanks for the help!
When I bought this mod 11, someone had painted it OD green. I pd 180.00 brought it home and started stripping that nasty paint from the steel and the wood. All I can say is wow whoever did that to this gun, well I can't say that on this forum. It also had a mag extension, it was a consignment and the guy's at the shop didn't know much about it. It has a 20'' barrel and I took off the mag extension, I wanted it back to original. It is a graceful design JMB knew what he was doing.
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