removing heavy leading from redhawk

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renaissance

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I know this is not really reloading related
( except that they were my reloads that put it there in the first place)
but
Starting in .44 Magnum for the first time.
Got a new (to me) susper redhawk 7.5"
Tried swagged swc's because I was told they gave the best accuracy.
Tried to keep them below 1000 fps,
but the barrell leaded up pretty bad anywayafter only 100 rounds.

I had always used my Hoppes "Lead Removal kit" [ The copper mesh & tight fitting "plug" rig] .....when I got leading in other calibers...( .45 and { forgive me }.. .38spl )
Went out to buy a kit in .44 Magnum and found out they have discontinued the product ( in all calibers - some four years ago).

Has the world passed me by ???

What do you all use now, to get out some "pretty severe" leading.

I'm looking for that redhawk (it is Leupold scoped) to do some serious "tack driving".
Don't want to mistreat that crisp rifleling, or the "crown".

What is the best way to de-lead today ???

BTW................ I am going semijacketed from now on.

renaissance
 
Get a copper pot scrubber. "Chore boy/girl" Snip out a strand, wrap it around a used bore brush, dip in solvent & scrub carefully. Works better than the LLR ever did...:D

Tom
 
You know the chore boy on a brush thing I keep hearing it, and it dont work for me. Other folks have suggested kroil got some of that and it dont work either. I load and shoot alot of cast bullets.

Ithe best thing I have ever used is the lewis lead remover it works.

There is the outers foul out.

But there is also cheap and easy chemistry some folks say it will damage a barrel, so I have only used it sparingly in dire emergencies in the past:

Get some white vinegar, get some Hydrogen peroxide, both availible at the grocery store. Mix 50/50, plug barrel pour in let sit 5 minutes. Viola all of the lead has disolved into a grey scum. Brush dry oil.

But the grey stuff is lead acetate and is very very toxic dont touch it wear gloves.
 
Ren,

I shoot almost exclusively lead. Some of it pushed pretty hard out of my .357. The answer to leading is really, really simple.

Kroil. Look it up on Midway, order a can, order a .44 mag swab brush, and then order some LeadOut patches. You'll also need a Jag (the "mushroom" style one-way patch pusher).

Here's what you do: Soak the swab brush in the Kroil. Then run it through the bore of the gun. I mean, get that bore dripping wet. Ok, do it again. I mean, soak it.

Now, go have a smoke. Or, get a glass of milk with some cookies. Kick back for 10 minutes or so.

Ok, now go back out and put the jag on the cleaning rod. Get a LeadOut patch on the jag and shove it through. It should have tension on the jag. I often use a LeadOut patch on top of a normal cotton patch to get enough tension on the barrel rifling.

Shove the patch through and look at the patch: lead will literally be sheeting out in long strips. You may need to run a dozen patches through in total, but trust me, this works.

Here's the trick: Kroil. Kroil is a superlight oil that creeps underneath the lead. The lead no longer has the strength to grip the rifling. So while the Kroil doesn't disovle lead, what it does do is make it so the lead just sheets out in solid chunks.

I didn't believe it until I tried it. It's spooky how well this works.

(PS: the ChoreBoy copper scrubbers work well, but I've found that the Kroil / Lead out patch makes cleaning my .357 a 10 minute ordeal even after a 500 round day at the range.)
 
heavy leading

I have found that a piece of 3/0 steel wool wrapped around a cleaning rod with either Kroil or Break Free does wonders in removing lead deposits.
 
I use the copper chore boy too. Take a patch of it about an inch wide by 2-1/2 or 3" long. wrap it around a bore brush. It looks like it would be hard to get in the barrel. In fact, about half will kind of ball up behind the brush. On a revolver, I'll start it in from the muzzle and pinch my left thumb and forefinger around the cleaning rot to act as a bore guide. Rapidly saw the brush back and forth through the bore 15-20 times. The barrel will warm up a bit from friction and I'll have a pile of lead sawdust at each end. I do this dry after running patches of Ed's Red through to get the top layer of powder fouling. Takes all of 30 seconds. (Cut the chore boy over your table or a trash can. That way you won't have to explain all the little copper loops on the floor to your wife.)
 
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