I have a 16" ar 15 barrel that has a muzzle brake built in as part of the barrel. I've looked an found the rifling to stop just before the first set of holes. How to I legally remove this noise maker and still have a legal length barrel? Or can I just drill out the holes to make on big hole similar to a flash hider? :banghead:
Removing integral muzzle brake?
- Thread starter snakeman
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You can't get around the laws of physics or the BATFE. If it's 16" now and you remove anything that makes it longer, it's illegal without SBR Stamp.
You are free to do anything (that I can imagine) to modify that brake as long as it remains +16" from the bolt face to the barrel end.
rjrivero
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Posting a picture would be helpful.
If it is a TRUE BRAKE, then there should be a "wall" at the very end of the muzzle. A brake will have a chamber for gas expansion, and then a constriction. The bullet will go through the brake, then the gas expands into the brake and is limited by that constriction.
If that's the case, you simply open the end of the brake and then you turn your muzzle brake into a flash hider. It *should* greatly decrease the sound coming off the muzzle and back to the shooter.
More than likely, the muzzle brake is not part of the barrel, it's probably threaded on. You could concieveably have the muzzle brake swapped out with a flash hider that would bring the barrel length back to the requisite >16" Overall.
Are you SURE that the barrel length is 16" to the muzzle brake?
You can measure the length of the barrel by putting a cleaning rod into the barrel all the way to the face of the bolt. Mark the rod at the muzzle, then pull out the rod and measure from the end of the rod to the mark.
A picture will be of great benefit for us to help you further.
If it is a TRUE BRAKE, then there should be a "wall" at the very end of the muzzle. A brake will have a chamber for gas expansion, and then a constriction. The bullet will go through the brake, then the gas expands into the brake and is limited by that constriction.
If that's the case, you simply open the end of the brake and then you turn your muzzle brake into a flash hider. It *should* greatly decrease the sound coming off the muzzle and back to the shooter.
More than likely, the muzzle brake is not part of the barrel, it's probably threaded on. You could concieveably have the muzzle brake swapped out with a flash hider that would bring the barrel length back to the requisite >16" Overall.
Are you SURE that the barrel length is 16" to the muzzle brake?
You can measure the length of the barrel by putting a cleaning rod into the barrel all the way to the face of the bolt. Mark the rod at the muzzle, then pull out the rod and measure from the end of the rod to the mark.
A picture will be of great benefit for us to help you further.
I thought about drilling out the end of it. It has a very small gas chamber so it wouldn't take much to open the end up bigger than the gas chamber. As an example it's this one...
rjrivero
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That brake appears to be removeable, provided the barrel is longer than 16" (minus the length of the brake).
Use the method above to measure for sure. If it is a short barrel, then you can still remove the brake, but it requires some machining to cut out the blind pin.
Are you planning on doing it yourself?
The reason I ask is because ADCO is excellent at doing this kind of work and turn around is about a week.
Use the method above to measure for sure. If it is a short barrel, then you can still remove the brake, but it requires some machining to cut out the blind pin.
Are you planning on doing it yourself?
The reason I ask is because ADCO is excellent at doing this kind of work and turn around is about a week.
Could removing that cause some kind of issue where insufficient pressure is sent back to send the BCG open?
In other words, solve one "problem" (issue), but create two or three more problems!
In other words, solve one "problem" (issue), but create two or three more problems!
rjrivero
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Typically, no. The gas system is tuned to barrel length. You will get back pressure if you're running a suppressor and potentially over gas the system, but for a muzzle brake, the back pressure isn't appreciably increased vs a standard barrel vs a flash hider.
Three other options...
If you really need to remove it, have it cut back to the rifling and turned down and threaded ($50 to $75 depending upon vendor) then install and weld/pin a flash hider or other muzzle device long enough to get your 16" back again. They make lots of different muzzle devices up to 5.5" long, including fake ones that don't actually do anything.
If the barrel is in good condition, there might be LOTS of guys who would swap for their 16" barrel (or longer) of your liking. If that is interesting to you, it's easy and both of you get what you want with no permanent alteration to either barrel. Or swap the entire upper, no need to change barrels.
Or put your upper out for sale, then buy one that meets your needs.
If you really need to remove it, have it cut back to the rifling and turned down and threaded ($50 to $75 depending upon vendor) then install and weld/pin a flash hider or other muzzle device long enough to get your 16" back again. They make lots of different muzzle devices up to 5.5" long, including fake ones that don't actually do anything.
If the barrel is in good condition, there might be LOTS of guys who would swap for their 16" barrel (or longer) of your liking. If that is interesting to you, it's easy and both of you get what you want with no permanent alteration to either barrel. Or swap the entire upper, no need to change barrels.
Or put your upper out for sale, then buy one that meets your needs.
rjrivero
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snakeman said:
Sure it would, as ants suggests. ADCO can cut down, thread, and perm mount any muzzle device you may like, provided it has enough length to make it to 16" again.
The more versatile thing to do is trade or sell it and get something you do want.
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