Removing Nickel Plating?

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statelineblues

statelineblues

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I recently picked up an older S&W revolver that someone at sometime in the past had nickel plated. It's starting to flake in a couple of places, so I was wondering about having it removed. Anyone ever had this done? Would it damage the gun? I would probably have it re-blued - any problems?
 
There are kits out there for brush-on plating of various metals. I wonder if it might be worthwhile to look into this so you can repair the nickel surface at least temporarily.

Sample, but I think there are smaller kits available which can run off a couple of batteries:

http://www.platingsales.com/brushplating.html

Note the variety of metals available.

You might also check in with plating shops or "bumper shops" to see if it can be overplated. If you're going to go through the trouble and expense of stripping off the old plating and then re-blueing, perhaps you might just as well re-plate it.

I would guess that to re-blue, you would have to really really strip the parts down to really bare-nekkid-no-kiddin'-around steel for an effective blue job. Just my guess, because with plating, you add metal, but with blueing you're converting the surface metal of the gun itself to oxides.

Then there's Cerakote, as well. Sample:

http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/

Terry, 230RN
 
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Check with a plater to see if it can be stripped - the process is just reversed, and the part becomes the donor to send nickel to the other anode.

The difficulty is whether that will damage the underlying surfaces. Maybe, maybe not. You need expert advice from somebody familiar with the process.

I would suggest that you get all the pricing up front, while there may be no objection to spending the money, doubling the price of the gun for a cosmetic benefit needs to be weighed in a rational light.
 
If it were me I'd just send it to S&W for a reblue. They do a good job and it's only a couple hundred dollars.

If the gun isn't worth it, then I'd just live with it.

The problem with refinishing a gun is that the more you do it, the less sharp some of the identifying characteristics become. Like, a Colt Python, for example. After a couple of refinishes, the lettering and the pony become less clear.

I've seen some guns where the lettering is so rounded it almost looks cursive, if you could see it.
 
Couple of posts recommended having bumper or plating shops do the work.

I don't think anyone without an FFL is permitted to work on a gun.
 
Speedo66 said:
I don't think anyone without an FFL is permitted to work on a gun.
Click to expand...

This is from the ATF site which alludes to you being correct. I'm not sure if it makes a difference if you stay with the firearm while the work is being done if it still applies because it never really leaves your possession.

Q: Is a license needed to engage in the business of engraving, customizing, refinishing or repairing firearms?
Yes. A person conducting such activities as a business is considered to be a gunsmith within the definition of a dealer.
[27 CFR 478.11]
Click to expand...

http://www.atf.gov/firearms/faq/gunsmiths.html#license-activities
 
An FFL is not required to work on a gun IF the gun owner is present while the work is being done. I have had old revolvers with bad nickel plating stripped by a plater with no damage to the gun at all. I then polished them and blued them (tank blue).

But there is one possible fly in the ointment. Many guns have been plated to cover up rust, heavy polishing or grinding, or severe damage. Removing the plating will reveal all those things and maybe leave the gun far worse looking than it was with the nickel plating on.

Jim
 
I have found that most platers, and most machine shops will not work on any gun part, just because they don't want to be part of any responsability if the gun blows up on someone.
They are doing only one part, but they can get blamed if the gun goes wrong, or someone else puts it together wrong.
 
I was dealing with a person to whom I was known and who had done work for me in the past.

As to the license, I erred on the waiting part; that applies to entry into the dealer's book. But a plater doing one job is not "engaging in the business" of gunsmithing, and BATFE (not for the first time) is ruling beyond the intent of both the law and the CFR.

But if you want that work done, and find a plater willing to do it, contact BATFE, in writing, for an answer about the need for the plater to have an FFL.

Jim
 
I had a gun in bad nickel plate that I was thinking of taking to the local industrial plater to have stripped for bluing or coating. But when I decided I did not need another project gun, I sold it to a guy who had it properly stripped and replated by a gun plater and it came out very nice.
 
Jim K said:
An FFL is not required to work on a gun IF the gun owner is present while the work is being done. I have had old revolvers with bad nickel plating stripped by a plater with no damage to the gun at all. I then polished them and blued them (tank blue).

But there is one possible fly in the ointment. Many guns have been plated to cover up rust, heavy polishing or grinding, or severe damage. Removing the plating will reveal all those things and maybe leave the gun far worse looking than it was with the nickel plating on.

Jim
Click to expand...
Any flaws in the old plated surface will show up after replating It has to buffed SMOOTH or it will show up either blued or replaited.
 
I have a couple of old Suicide Specials that the Nickel is almost gone in spots.
I noticed that before a gun is Nickel Plated, it is usualy Copper plated.
Well, If Ammonia eats copper like in your Barrel, then I am going to try soaking my pistols in industrial strength Ammonia and see if it will eat the copper plating , disbonding the remaining Nickel finish.
Hay, It is worth a shot, and I surely ain't worried about ruining my guns.

Does anybody have thoughts about what I am going to try ?
 
Whether a bumper shop will do it or not, it is not the correct chrome. Bumpers are "decorative" chrome. Not durable enough to be used on a gun, or even a bumper in some cases. It needs to be done in Nickel or industrial hard chrome by someone experienced in refinishing firearms..
 
Well, the Soaking in Ammonia didn't work.
It turned the Ammonia a light Blue but didn't get under the nickel plating to loosen it up.
It was worth a shot, and now I know that would take forever to be effective.
 
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