Renaissance wax.

Obturation

Obturation

Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2018
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3,991
Location
Northern illinois
Hey all,
Yesterday I couldn't spell Renaissance wax and today I rubbed down a winchester with it.

-breif history for context. I got a neglected win 94, it had some rust and hadn't seen oil in decades but inside was rust free and in like new condition. I took it apart and cleaned it all up. There's one patch of barrel that has minor pitting but it's at the barrel band in between the barrel and magazine , no biggie. I was looking for something I could put on the rough spot to kind of seal it or something. I don't know but I hear it's good for wood too and this things wood is dry.

Ok, the wax . i don't really know if this is the correct application but I've heard guys talking about using it for firearms that are going to get wet. So I figured I'd give it a try. Of course this doesn't restore finish on steel but I can tell it's somewhat shined the whole gun up. Wondering about you folks experience with this or if there's a better product for my situation .

I like the idea of wax and I'm considering waxing up a couple other rifles but I don't want to go crazy until I see how this works out with the winchester after I shoot it some.

What do ya think? What do you use? Would you rub it all over your small collection of vintage marlin rifles? o_O

Thanks! 20230430_060947.jpg
 
Renaissance wax adds a protective layer and preserves the surface (to a point and for a limited time), but it doesn't restore dry wood or leather. For old dry wood, use first linseed oil for replenishment and nourishment and after it dries, apply the wax as protection.
 
Mizar said:
Renaissance wax adds a protective layer and preserves the surface (to a point and for a limited time), but it doesn't restore dry wood or leather. For old dry wood, use first linseed oil for replenishment and nourishment and after it dries, apply the wax as protection.
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I rubbed Danish oil on it when I had it apart and it did soak in the inside where it has no finish but the outside didn't really absorb much oil and it took a few days for it to really dry. Then I rubbed it until it was feeling normal again. It may have some sort of lacquer or something but I waxed it and it did add some shine.
 
I have used it for years and it works great on wood and steel. I still prefer using CLP to protect my blued guns, just a personal preference. I do use the wax on the stocks.
 
I’ve been told that many museums that use Renaissance wax to help protect items on exhibit.
It has a good following of people that use it and good recommendations.
I personally use Johnson’s paste wax, but as someone said it is discontinued.
My tin was $8 years ago at Lowe’s.
Renaissance I believe is around $25 on Amazon.
I use it on all my rifles before season and then again after.
 
Wolfshead said:
I’ve been told that many museums that use Renaissance wax to help protect items on exhibit.
It has a good following of people that use it and good recommendations.
I personally use Johnson’s paste wax, but as someone said it is discontinued.
My tin was $8 years ago at Lowe’s.
Renaissance I believe is around $25 on Amazon.
I use it on all my rifles before season and then again after.
Click to expand...
Wood & metal , just rub the whole thing down? Do you notice anything unusual when the gun gets hot (greasy feeling or anything)?
 
BBBBill said:
Renaissance Wax is great stuff, but I've had equaly good results with plain old Johnson's Paste Wax which, unfortunately, is now discontinued.
Click to expand...

Wolfshead said:
I’ve been told that many museums that use Renaissance wax to help protect items on exhibit.
It has a good following of people that use it and good recommendations.
I personally use Johnson’s paste wax, but as someone said it is discontinued.
My tin was $8 years ago at Lowe’s.
Renaissance I believe is around $25 on Amazon.
I use it on all my rifles before season and then again after.
Click to expand...
I have about 1/2 a can of Johnson’s Paste Wax. It lasts a long time. Too bad it’s discontinued. It’s easy to apply and rubs to a great shine. Seems to be protective of water spots and finger prints. There are a few postings for JPW on eBay but it’s $80-90 per can!:eek:
 
For what Renaissance wax costs it should apply and buff it's self. I have always used Johnson's as that is what I started with back in the dark ages and have never had one problem with it. I have almost a full can of it so no worries about ever running out.
 
BBBBill said:
Renaissance Wax is great stuff, but I've had equaly good results with plain old Johnson's Paste Wax which, unfortunately, is now discontinued.
Click to expand...
That's a shame, because it's great stuff. When I first started doing home gunsmithing, I needed a release agent for epoxy bedding. I found a can of JPW in the cleaning closet and used it. There was about 3/4 of a can left. That was almost 40 years ago and after a lot of bedding and rifle coating that can is still half full. When I just read that it had been discontinued, I had an instant of panic, but then I realized I'll never finish the can I have in my lifetime.

To answer the OP's question, it's fine to put a coat of wax on the metal. I put a fresh coat of JPW on every time I hunt with a blued gun. Never had a speck of rust, even on hunts that included snow, sleet and rain.
 
doubleh said:
For what Renaissance wax costs it should apply and buff it's self. I have always used Johnson's as that is what I started with back in the dark ages and have never had one problem with it. I have almost a full can of it so no worries about ever running out.
Click to expand...
Some of the postings on JPW indicate that its ingredients include some carcinogens. It’s likely since it has petroleum distillates in it. Probably why it was discontinued.
I use nitrile gloves when I use it now. My mom used to use it to shine her wood floors if I remember correctly. No gloves that I remember, just a soft rag to apply and buff.
Renaissance Wax is probably safer.
 
Developed by the British Museum. The best preservation wax made by far,expensive but you need to use only a tiny amount. My wife also uses it for silver jewelry,zero tarnish. We have had the small can for about a decade and the content is down about a quarter inch from the top...Well worth the $25.
 
Obturation said:
Would you rub it all over your small collection of vintage marlin rifles?
Click to expand...

If I had a collection of vintage Marlins I would, at least on the metal. I do use it on my guns, knives, fine tools. Have a whole bunch of all the above I intend to rub down with it eventually.

It's expensive but it goes on very thin and a little really goes a long way. No obnoxious fumes either. I've never used it on wood. I'd think it would make a good case sizing lube but have never used it that way either.
 
There are other brands of paste wax still available. I've seen it at the big box stores too. Most any wood working supply store should have it. I also use the past wax on my table saws tables and anything in my shop that has a ground surface that can rust. Living in a high humidity area requires you to keep a protective coating on bare steel.
 
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Obturation said:
Wood & metal , just rub the whole thing down? Do you notice anything unusual when the gun gets hot (greasy feeling or anything)?
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I take a clean piece of cloth and dip it into the tin, and rub the rifle down with it. Metal and wood.
Let it sit for an hour or so and rub it all down.
I have never noticed any greasy feeling at any time.
 
If the stock was not varnished or poly on it I would use tung oil or linseed oil.
Wax will seal up the wood, and future coats of oil would not be even. But would not hurt anything to use wax instead.
 
Obturation said:
Wood & metal , just rub the whole thing down? Do you notice anything unusual when the gun gets hot (greasy feeling or anything)?
Click to expand...

I use Ren Wax on all my guns, and have for years. I've found with used guns especially blue ones, the first thing I do is give them a light buffing with Flitz polish to remove any microscopic surface rust, dust, old oil, etc, that I've found on most every used gun I've ever bought. And a few new ones. It doesn't look like rust but the rag will turn red...not black...that would indicate you're taking off blue. You don't want that. And when I say light buff, I mean just that. Apply the Flitz with your fingertip. Gently, I don't try to work it in, just spread it over the surface. Then let it dry, then buff it off by hand, lightly with a soft cloth...Old T-shirt works great. You're trying to polish something, not sand a tabletop. Gently. When you're finished, the metal should be smooth to the touch. Then I come back with a couple of coats of Ren Wax. Apply with the fingertip, let dry, then buff off by hand. Same thing. Gently. Reapply as needed.

Yes, Ren Wax is not cheap, but a jar will last a LONG time. Not all the time, but once in a while I think I can catch a faint smell of the Ren Wax at the range as the gun warms up, but it's quickly gone. It may even be my imagination. It doesn't get sticky, at least not that I've ever noticed.

I just did a Taurus Revolver a day or so ago. Save for a turn line, it looks like brand new. That finish IMHO, will rival a Smith and Wesson.

The lighting was lousy so the finish does't POP like it does in the hand. I need to redo the picture. I didn't see those smudges that the camera picks up.

TT2.jpg

I use it on wood grips too. No idea if it does anything for it or not other than make it shiny, but it's never seemed to hurt it. I used "Pledge" furniture polish for a long time. That worked pretty good on wood stocks, and on the metal too. Gun cabinet smelled like lemon. :)
 
A friend of mine who has antiques, uses this. Bought myself a can and use it on knives, swords and guns.
 
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