Repairing some over swagged LC brass feasible?

[RussellC]

When I first started using the Dillon 600 Super Swage, I had it a little tight. Not crazy tight, but still, a little tight. Later I adjusted it correctly, slowly turning it in, swage, attempt to insert primer. Turning it and trying to prime until I got it to the "just enough" place.

Well, recently loading this brass I noticed the primers were not going all the way in, which left them a couple thousandths too tall.

Taking them apart, I saw the problem. The rod that you slip the case on was stuck against the web (part that you push the primer against that has the flash hole in it) hard enough to push part of it up....and thereby shrinking the depth of the pocket slightly, and leaving the primer the tiniest bit proud. (not good] Fortunately after a couple of thousand cases I only had about 25 like this.

Is it possible to use a punch to slightly/lightly strike it a time or two enough to push it down? If not, no big deal a few lost. Just wondering. Lesson learned.

Russellc

 

[X-Ring]

Try a primer pocket uniforming tool, they are made to cut the pocket to the same depth.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1165539844/hornady-primer-pocket-uniforming-tool

 

[hdwhit]

Is it possible to use a punch to slightly/lightly strike it a time or two enough to push it down?

Primers are ignited by shock, so putting a punch up against a primer and striking it runs the risk of setting it off. You can 1) dispose of the cases, 2) fire the empty cases which will deactivate the primers (which is what I would recommend) or 3) very gently use a die with a decapping pin to slowly push the primers out and then fix the problem with the cases.

 

[Wildfire]

X-ring was correct. Cutting the primer hole sets the depth and squares the bottom. Swaging tools open up crimps at the mouth and best I know do nothing at the bottoms of the holes. Properly set cutters should put the primer at about .005" below the case head and that is perfect. I have pushed live primer back out carefully using s die. Swagers push the metal aside, cutters remove the metal.

 

[Blue68f100]

If you have a single stage press or hand priming tool try to seat the primer the rest of the way. If you can't then remove the primer and correct the problem. Provided these are empty brass, no powder and bullet.

 

[Rule3]

How many pieces of brass?. If only a few fixing is more trouble than it's worth IMO Not like there is a 556 shortage (yet)

 

[RussellC]

Primers are ignited by shock, so putting a punch up against a primer and striking it runs the risk of setting it off. You can 1) dispose of the cases, 2) fire the empty cases which will deactivate the primers (which is what I would recommend) or 3) very gently use a die with a decapping pin to slowly push the primers out and then fix the problem with the cases.

The primers are removed, you couldn't do what I am talking about with primer in place, as you couldn't get to the web.

Russellc

 

[RussellC]

How many pieces of brass?. If only a few fixing is more trouble than it's worth IMO Not like there is a 556 shortage (yet)

Only 30 to 40 and they are pitched already. I still have few pieces that I was examining when problem arose.
Just wondering if it was even safe to bend back in place. The damage isn't that the entire "floor" of the pocket is raised, it is distorted on one side, making the primer not fully seat.

Russellc

 

[RussellC]

If you have a single stage press or hand priming tool try to seat the primer the rest of the way. If you can't then remove the primer and correct the problem. Provided these are empty brass, no powder and bullet.

I tried that, they are seated as far as they can go. Measuring shoulder setback with a Wilson depth gauge, measurement was more than what depth gauge alone would indicate.

Pulling them apart is when I saw the distorted floor on one side of the pocket. All cases done after this batch
Are free of the problem, once device was adjusted properly.

Should this weaken the case in a dangerous manner, it is the end facing the shooter! Those webs, at least the few I have I have sawed in half in the past, were pretty thick there.

I think I paid 8 cents apiece for these
so no way is it worth the risk not knowing....just wondering.

Russellc

 

[RussellC]

X-ring was correct. Cutting the primer hole sets the depth and squares the bottom. Swaging tools open up crimps at the mouth and best I know do nothing at the bottoms of the holes. Properly set cutters should put the primer at about .005" below the case head and that is perfect. I have pushed live primer back out carefully using s die. Swagers push the metal aside, cutters remove the metal.

Yes, I like the idea of moving, rather than removing the crimp by cutting brass.

That said, this is giving me pause to think for sure. The speed of the Dillon is addictive. Properly set as it is now, there is no distortion and primers seat perfectly.

My cases are cleaned in a Frankford Arsenal wet/steel pin case cleaner and the pockets are very, very clean. The bottom of my pockets always looks like new condition. It's the upper part, especially on the ones I have had with the 4 stake marks instead if the circular crimp. They seem to have tiny tags around then, seems to be made a little worse after the swage. While only 1or 2 thousandths of an inch, it plays heck with measuring shoulder set back!

maybe I should try a cutter, I will start looking into them.

Russellc

 

[Wildfire]

Maybe I tend to suggest some things because I have shop tools that really speed things up. I use my lathe a lot for Deburring case mouths and removing primer crimps. The cutter does not remove very much at all. After using your Dillon, even a drill set up could be used to just take that problem away very fast. Very little metal gets removed and the whole deal can be done in minutes. I actually made some exact fit {per caliber} tools for deburring case mouths. In the lathe or even a drill set up this is very fast. The tool eliminates wobble and keeps rounds square to the tool. I did the same thing with the primer "uniformer" What used to be a pain is very fast now and I can do hundreds of rounds quickly.
I have plenty of time these days so I wash my brass is a solution that cleans inside and out, dry them and then tumble. Many times my old cases look better than new ones. I started doing this because I never know when those loads may get fired. They may sit for years. Yet, I never reall had any go bad even after sitting for many years. Oh well, suck to get old with nothing better to do.

 

[RussellC]

Maybe I tend to suggest some things because I have shop tools that really speed things up. I use my lathe a lot for Deburring case mouths and removing primer crimps. The cutter does not remove very much at all. After using your Dillon, even a drill set up could be used to just take that problem away very fast. Very little metal gets removed and the whole deal can be done in minutes. I actually made some exact fit {per caliber} tools for deburring case mouths. In the lathe or even a drill set up this is very fast. The tool eliminates wobble and keeps rounds square to the tool. I did the same thing with the primer "uniformer" What used to be a pain is very fast now and I can do hundreds of rounds quickly.
I have plenty of time these days so I wash my brass is a solution that cleans inside and out, dry them and then tumble. Many times my old cases look better than new ones. I started doing this because I never know when those loads may get fired. They may sit for years. Yet, I never reall had any go bad even after sitting for many years. Oh well, suck to get old with nothing better to do.

Understand, but one thing:
The distortion pushes half of the pockets floor up too high to let the primer fully seat, cutting away would remove the raised portion, but the raised part may be a hole after wards, or leave it very thin where the raise portion was? Or does the cutter only cut at the top of the pocket, where the crimp is, and leave the "floor" alone? If that's the case, cutter wouldn't help. Appreciate the suggestion, but inquiry was whether the described action, tapping it down would be a safe procedure or not. I definitely understand about the getting older! I may very well use one of these cutter/uniforming units just to try out, they wouldn't cause the raised floor like the Dillon did.

I really like the Dillon unit, works very quickly.

Russellc

 

[Wildfire]

A primer pocket uniformer cuts the bottom only and squares it. I used to use the pointed end of a deburr tool to just clean off any crimp just enough so a primer would start in. It does not really remove much metal. The 4 point crimp you talk about is one I guess I have not seen. Or maybe just never noticed. I do use the uniformer because as I said it squares the bottoms of the pockets. But doing that for rounds used in an AR or such would cost a lot of time that likely would not be needed. My long range rounds get that treatment. That uniformer sets the primer at .005" below the case heads. Just right. I am not sure why the floor of the primer pocket would get raised at all. That would seem to be too much pressure from inside.If that were the case I can see that as not such a good thing going on. I know it takes a certain amount of force to make the tool work but I guess I did not think it was that much. I use a lot of Dillon equipment just not that tool. I can understand your issues but maybe do not have good answer. At least a fast one. Keep at it you will get it. Maybe a photo would shed more light on this. If possible.

 

[RussellC]

A primer pocket uniformer cuts the bottom only and squares it. I used to use the pointed end of a deburr tool to just clean off any crimp just enough so a primer would start in. It does not really remove much metal. The 4 point crimp you talk about is one I guess I have not seen. Or maybe just never noticed. I do use the uniformer because as I said it squares the bottoms of the pockets. But doing that for rounds used in an AR or such would cost a lot of time that likely would not be needed. My long range rounds get that treatment. That uniformer sets the primer at .005" below the case heads. Just right. I am not sure why the floor of the primer pocket would get raised at all. That would seem to be too much pressure from inside.If that were the case I can see that as not such a good thing going on. I know it takes a certain amount of force to make the tool work but I guess I did not think it was that much. I use a lot of Dillon equipment just not that tool. I can understand your issues but maybe do not have good answer. At least a fast one. Keep at it you will get it. Maybe a photo would shed more light on this. If possible.

Well, like my post explained, the Dillon swage was not properly adjusted when this occurred. Similarly, the posts explained how the Dillon unit works, and what part caused the damage. Also, how it is adjusted now and works properly. Again, thanks for the response and all but the inquiry is if it is possible to tap it back into shape, nothing more.
Yes, these are fired in my AR.

Russellc

 

[Wildfire]

Ok, sorry for all the confusion.

 

[RussellC]

As an experiment, I am going to try taking a few of the less damaged cases, tapping them more or less back in place, then try the pocket uniformer, to clean it up.

A few of the ones already pitched had damage sufficient to not allow primer to fully seat.

As an aside, I have noticed that the CCI 41 primers look slightly taller than Winchester small rifle primer, slightly amplifying the problem.