I have been carrying and using an old Schrade three blade pocket knife for 35 years, and it has served me well. I recently decided to replace it with a single blade pocket knife that would be good to use for self defense as well as for general pocket knife cutting tasks. I want a knife that can easily be opened very fast with one hand. I also want a knife that looks like a traditional pocket knife, not a tactical fighting knife, and definitely not black. I want a clip blade between 3" and 4" long. I would like a blade made from high carbon steel, but I know that's impossible. I do expect to find one with a blade made from a type of stainless that has a high carbon content. So far I have not been able to find a knife like this. Any suggestions?
Replacement for my pocket knife
- Thread starter trickshot
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sm
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Welcome to THR.
I prefer traditonal pocket knives as well, and it is sad the Old Shrade company is no more.
I use Case brand, and prefer the yellow handles with Chrome Vanadium blades, non locking - by choice, and on purpose.
I personally am not planning on using a knife in a knife fight.
I have used a knife in a defensive manner, and one of my favorite patterns was used , that being the Case Barehead, Slimline Trapper, yellow handle ,with CV blades.
http://www.wrcase.com/knives/pocket...Family='Yellow Handle'&Folding='1'&Item='0031'
Now I have no personal experience, just the feedback from those that have these Moore-Maker brands.
I have handled and used other MM tools and I recommend them highly.
http://catalog.mooremaker.com/browseGroup.cfm?item_group_id=29383
http://catalog.mooremaker.com/viewProduct.cfm?item_id=727402
http://catalog.mooremaker.com/viewProduct.cfm?item_id=727406
Just a couple of ideas and the feedback is excellent on their 3 blade stockman knives as well.
This post has been brought to you by T&P a division of CRR
Traditional & Practical a division of Curmudgeons Reprobates & Relics
I prefer traditonal pocket knives as well, and it is sad the Old Shrade company is no more.
I use Case brand, and prefer the yellow handles with Chrome Vanadium blades, non locking - by choice, and on purpose.
I personally am not planning on using a knife in a knife fight.
I have used a knife in a defensive manner, and one of my favorite patterns was used , that being the Case Barehead, Slimline Trapper, yellow handle ,with CV blades.
http://www.wrcase.com/knives/pocket...Family='Yellow Handle'&Folding='1'&Item='0031'
Now I have no personal experience, just the feedback from those that have these Moore-Maker brands.
I have handled and used other MM tools and I recommend them highly.
http://catalog.mooremaker.com/browseGroup.cfm?item_group_id=29383
http://catalog.mooremaker.com/viewProduct.cfm?item_id=727402
http://catalog.mooremaker.com/viewProduct.cfm?item_id=727406
Just a couple of ideas and the feedback is excellent on their 3 blade stockman knives as well.
This post has been brought to you by T&P a division of CRR
Traditional & Practical a division of Curmudgeons Reprobates & Relics
Hm. A knife that's semi-traditional is the Spyderco Kopa Jigged Bone, but it's got a shorter blade than you want.
Not very traditional- but still not silly tactikewl- is the Spyderco Caly 3. It's a slicing machine, and would probably last you the rest of your life.
A knife I suggest to almost anyone who wants to get into one-handed knives is the Spyderco Delica. 3" blade, lightweight and strong, opens easily, doesn't scream DEATH KNIFE!!!1 If you think you want a little more knife, the Endura has an inch more blade.
I would suggest the H1 (completely rustproof steel) Salt, as well, but this doesn't seem to be a priority for you. Others in outdoor environments, or with very corrosive sweat might like it, though.
I personally think it'll be too big for your needs, but if I knew I was headed towards a fight, and for some reason could only bring a folding knife, it would be the Spyderco Chinook.
If you think you might like the pocket clip, thumb hole, and good steel of the Spydercos, but not want to invest for one of their more expensive models, you might try out the new entry (BARGAIN!) priced Tenacious.
Hope this helps, and have fun!
John
Not very traditional- but still not silly tactikewl- is the Spyderco Caly 3. It's a slicing machine, and would probably last you the rest of your life.
A knife I suggest to almost anyone who wants to get into one-handed knives is the Spyderco Delica. 3" blade, lightweight and strong, opens easily, doesn't scream DEATH KNIFE!!!1 If you think you want a little more knife, the Endura has an inch more blade.
I would suggest the H1 (completely rustproof steel) Salt, as well, but this doesn't seem to be a priority for you. Others in outdoor environments, or with very corrosive sweat might like it, though.
I personally think it'll be too big for your needs, but if I knew I was headed towards a fight, and for some reason could only bring a folding knife, it would be the Spyderco Chinook.
If you think you might like the pocket clip, thumb hole, and good steel of the Spydercos, but not want to invest for one of their more expensive models, you might try out the new entry (BARGAIN!) priced Tenacious.
Hope this helps, and have fun!
John
mr.trooper
Member
Mcusta 124
Mcusta 26
Lone Wolf T-2
All have one handed opening, nice wood grips, high carbon stainless blades, and semi-traditional blade patterns. I think These are the closes you will find to your criterion list without going custom. The are all fine quality knives, with Mcusta being the more traditional to my eyes.
JTW Jr.
Member
Kershaw Double Duty...
slightly under 3" though , but a liner lock with thumbstuds but has the look of a traditional.
http://www.knifeworks.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=7431
also the Case Mid Hunter.
http://www.knifeworks.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=4834
I love traditionals , however I have ZERO nails left , grinding belts remove them faster than I can grow them back...as well as fingerprints.
slightly under 3" though , but a liner lock with thumbstuds but has the look of a traditional.
http://www.knifeworks.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=7431
also the Case Mid Hunter.
http://www.knifeworks.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=4834
I love traditionals , however I have ZERO nails left , grinding belts remove them faster than I can grow them back...as well as fingerprints.
ArfinGreebly
Moderator Emeritus
Traditional, One-Handed
Well . . .
. . . there's always this little number
I imagine (for that price) it's likely not made in the U.S., but you would want to apply due diligence in any case.
Well . . .
. . . there's always this little number
Buck 110 (clone?) "Double Action" conversion
(Listed at $45)
. . . although I don't know what your legal status is for that piece. And I really have no idea what kind of quality you're getting for $45.
(Listed at $45)
I imagine (for that price) it's likely not made in the U.S., but you would want to apply due diligence in any case.
ArfinGreebly
Moderator Emeritus
Kalinga Pro
Slightly more dramatic, but still just within bounds, is the Buck Kalinga Pro folding hunter with Rosewood handle.
Slightly more dramatic, but still just within bounds, is the Buck Kalinga Pro folding hunter with Rosewood handle.
For around $100
The blade is just shy of 4 inches, and it has a one-handed thumb stud. With a little practice, you can get it open pretty quickly.
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
I should also note that there is a thumb stud mod which attaches to the blade of a Buck 110 or similar class of knife and which allows one-handed opening. I believe it's been mentioned here before, and shouldn't be too hard to find._ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
For what it's worth, I just started carrying a Buck 297 Sirus. It does not meet your specifications. It has a drop point rather than clip point. At 3.25 inches, the blade does meet your length requirement. It's an "ASAP" assisted opener, and very one-hand friendly. It's not particularly heavy, and it's pretty flat. It has a pocket clip, but that can be removed. Of all the "modern" designs I have, it's the least "tactical looking." The handle on mine is "gun-metal" grey and has no designs or patterns on it.
For what it's worth, I just started carrying a Buck 297 Sirus. It does not meet your specifications. It has a drop point rather than clip point. At 3.25 inches, the blade does meet your length requirement. It's an "ASAP" assisted opener, and very one-hand friendly. It's not particularly heavy, and it's pretty flat. It has a pocket clip, but that can be removed. Of all the "modern" designs I have, it's the least "tactical looking." The handle on mine is "gun-metal" grey and has no designs or patterns on it.
markk
Member
Mandirigma
Member
mr.trooper
Member
Yea, its a clone. Real Buck 110 conversions cost about $120.
Piedmont Plinker
Member
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- Nov 19, 2006
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- 941
Hmm. Case mid folding hunnter is very traditional looking but has a liner lock and pocket clip. Boker Trapperliners and Case Russlocks also open one-handed, but don't have pocket clips.
Also, the Kershaw Ken Onion Sapphire is a gentlemans folder with a kinda of traditional, and very elegant look.
Also, the Kershaw Ken Onion Sapphire is a gentlemans folder with a kinda of traditional, and very elegant look.
Dr. Tad Hussein Winslow
member
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- Nov 14, 2007
- Messages
- 13,146
I was gonn say:
"Kershaw Splinter with assisted opening is the best answer, I believe:
http://www.dealerease.net/catalog/product.asp?pid=52106&ret_id=962849
"
But the Splinter is apparently not an assisted opener. So I'll have to think on this one and get back to you - It's a tougher question than it first appears. Anymore, Buck and Gerber use inferior materials to other makers, unlike the old days. Gerber is essentially junk, and Buck is just *meh* anymore. Stick with Spyderco, Kershaw, Benchmade, Emerson, certain CRKTs, etc.
If you want fast and easy one-handed opening, I recommend that you get one of these feature combinations:
1. Assisted opening spring (AO), with thumb stub
2. AO with flipper
3. Smooth action with flipper
4. VERY smooth action with large thumb stub
5. Auto knife
There are bazillons of models with these features which are NOT in the traditional mold that you want. Perhaps none or one or just a few that are.....I'll keep looking and thinking.
Right now I would go with Mr. Trooper's recommendations - they appear to fill the bill, even if not AO - they allege to fall under category 4 with "very" or "silky" smooth action. I prefer a flipper on any NON-AO knife, but if smooth enough, a thumb stud only will work, esp. with a little practice. Have to keep the knife clean though, to keep it smooth.
"Kershaw Splinter with assisted opening is the best answer, I believe:
http://www.dealerease.net/catalog/product.asp?pid=52106&ret_id=962849
"
But the Splinter is apparently not an assisted opener. So I'll have to think on this one and get back to you - It's a tougher question than it first appears. Anymore, Buck and Gerber use inferior materials to other makers, unlike the old days. Gerber is essentially junk, and Buck is just *meh* anymore. Stick with Spyderco, Kershaw, Benchmade, Emerson, certain CRKTs, etc.
If you want fast and easy one-handed opening, I recommend that you get one of these feature combinations:
1. Assisted opening spring (AO), with thumb stub
2. AO with flipper
3. Smooth action with flipper
4. VERY smooth action with large thumb stub
5. Auto knife
There are bazillons of models with these features which are NOT in the traditional mold that you want. Perhaps none or one or just a few that are.....I'll keep looking and thinking.
Right now I would go with Mr. Trooper's recommendations - they appear to fill the bill, even if not AO - they allege to fall under category 4 with "very" or "silky" smooth action. I prefer a flipper on any NON-AO knife, but if smooth enough, a thumb stud only will work, esp. with a little practice. Have to keep the knife clean though, to keep it smooth.
sadlsor
Member
Take a look at a medium or large Cold Steel Voyager. Reasonably priced, fee-Bay available too, and you can get a regular, non-serrated clip-point for your traditional look. One-handed opening, but if you ever would need a knife for self-defense, you'd be best served with a blade that has a strong lock. Did I mention the Cold Steel Voyager?
The scales are black, the blade is not.
The scales are black, the blade is not.
Thanks for all the helpful advice. The recommendation to get a knife with locking blade was good. Something I had overlooked. I don't want an automatic knife. I like the Case mid folding hunter a lot, but don't think it has a locking blade. I might buy it anyway. I also like the looks of the Slimline Trapper with yellow handle, but it's not a one handed knife.
I would be willing to pay a lot of money if I found a knife that was everything I want. After looking at all those and after much searching I have given up on finding what I want. Can't find anything even close. So I'm going to buy an inexpensive knife that is about the same size as what I want. I'm willing to get a drop point blade, and any kind of steel, but I think black knives are very ugly. Maybe I'll get a Buck Bantam BLW, it's not quite as ugly as black.
I thought about maybe buying a knife with a black handle and gluing wood veneer on the sides so it wouldn't look so ugly, but don't know if that would look very good.
Someday in the future I might have a knife custom built for me.
I would be willing to pay a lot of money if I found a knife that was everything I want. After looking at all those and after much searching I have given up on finding what I want. Can't find anything even close. So I'm going to buy an inexpensive knife that is about the same size as what I want. I'm willing to get a drop point blade, and any kind of steel, but I think black knives are very ugly. Maybe I'll get a Buck Bantam BLW, it's not quite as ugly as black.
I thought about maybe buying a knife with a black handle and gluing wood veneer on the sides so it wouldn't look so ugly, but don't know if that would look very good.
Someday in the future I might have a knife custom built for me.
sixgunner455
Member
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2006
- Messages
- 3,052
The Slimline Trapper is pretty easy to use one-handed, and with a bit of very light modification, would be even easier.
Just sayin'.
Just sayin'.
ArfinGreebly
Moderator Emeritus
One-Armed Bandit
Anyone have a valid current link for the "One-Armed Bandit" thumb stud?
My google-foo seems to be in a funk today.
Anyone have a valid current link for the "One-Armed Bandit" thumb stud?
My google-foo seems to be in a funk today.
sixgunner455
Member
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2006
- Messages
- 3,052
Okay, first: The blade can be pinched between the thumb and index fingers instead of using the nail nick to open the knife as it comes from the factory.
To open, you would either do it two handed or take the blade, pinched between the fingers, tip pointed forward and the hinge in the palm of the hand, and snap the knife down sharply, holding onto the blade. The handle will snap open into your palm. This can be done with many knives, from traditionals to lockbacks. It can be hard on the hinge/spring/blade interaction of some knives, so if I was worried about it, I wouldn't do it every time I used the knife, just enough to learn and practice once in a while.
If you desire to modify it to be even easier to open, and make it easy to use one-handed, there are a couple of ways to do it. Steve (sm) can tell you how to use a match stick and pocket positioning to make it open like a one-armed bandit. I can envision it, but I've never seen it or done it that way.
The other way, which I have seen and done on some knives, is to take a half-round file and carefully slim down the handle in the area you pinch the blade. For me, on the Slimline Trapper, that would be between the upper handle pin and the shield. I haven't yet done it to the one I just got, but I've been considering it. Haven't as yet, because I'm just not convinced that I need to be able to open it one-handed all the time.
This would be done to personal preference/need/finger size. For example, you could just thin out the handle material on each side, but not cut into the liners. Or you could minimally cut into the liner to make more room for fingers, or on into it as deep as needed. This is already a fairly slender knife, so care must be taken not to cut too far, just as far as needed.
As stated above, it's usable as a one-hander from the factory, this is just enough modding to make it easier.
To open, you would either do it two handed or take the blade, pinched between the fingers, tip pointed forward and the hinge in the palm of the hand, and snap the knife down sharply, holding onto the blade. The handle will snap open into your palm. This can be done with many knives, from traditionals to lockbacks. It can be hard on the hinge/spring/blade interaction of some knives, so if I was worried about it, I wouldn't do it every time I used the knife, just enough to learn and practice once in a while.
If you desire to modify it to be even easier to open, and make it easy to use one-handed, there are a couple of ways to do it. Steve (sm) can tell you how to use a match stick and pocket positioning to make it open like a one-armed bandit. I can envision it, but I've never seen it or done it that way.
The other way, which I have seen and done on some knives, is to take a half-round file and carefully slim down the handle in the area you pinch the blade. For me, on the Slimline Trapper, that would be between the upper handle pin and the shield. I haven't yet done it to the one I just got, but I've been considering it. Haven't as yet, because I'm just not convinced that I need to be able to open it one-handed all the time.
This would be done to personal preference/need/finger size. For example, you could just thin out the handle material on each side, but not cut into the liners. Or you could minimally cut into the liner to make more room for fingers, or on into it as deep as needed. This is already a fairly slender knife, so care must be taken not to cut too far, just as far as needed.
As stated above, it's usable as a one-hander from the factory, this is just enough modding to make it easier.
Piedmont Plinker
Member
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2006
- Messages
- 941
Mid Folding Hunter has a linerlock, I'm pretty sure. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
I just found a web site that says the blade of Case Mid Folding Hunter is 3" long. Looks like this is the knife I will buy. Too bad they don't make one just a little bit longer and it would be about perfect. Thanks for all the help.
sm
member
Matchstick
Barehead Slimline Trapper is a favorite of mine and has been forever.
I prefer yellow handles and chrome vanadium blades.
Now this matchstick trick goes back before I was born, and works for any knife.
I was born in the mid 50's, and not all the Veterans from previous conflicts were whole, nor did they have a knife pattern called the One Arm Jack.
Ladies used this matchstick trick, even though the Switchblade knife was originally designed with ladies in mind - not all ladies had a switchblade.
I even use this tip/trick on Case Peanuts , Case small stockman and SAK Classic SD....
Two ways, one may work better for you, depending on you, the knife and all.
1. Matchstick is fitted so the tang does not come all the way down, leaving some of the tip up from handles.
2. Where blade fits into handle, apply and fit just back of blade tip.
Matchstick is a soft wood, it will not dull an edge.
Kitchen matches, or smaller match sticks, allow one to tweak to fit inside the handle and /or liners.
These stay in place quite well and still are easy to remove.
Barehead Slimline Trapper-
Simply retrieve knife from whatever pocket, and just catch the tip on jeans, pants seams, pockets.
Everyone has a preferred method of carry and dress.
Just see what works for you, and make it one fluid move.
I catch on front pockets, and rear pockets, right or left don't matter to me personally, I have been doing this too long.
Catch on a shoe, boot, cardboad box...
This is like a Gov't model of 1911, and left stock, the gun is so easy to run , if not mucked up with all the goopy curb feelers and fuzzy dice folks stick on 1911 clones guns today.
When I stay in practice, I can get one open faster than some with assisted opening.
Buck 110 users , have used this trick along with another, and these Lockback users, Buck 110, or Case Mako Shark, or Shrade equiv, were back when and still can get these out faster than some with newer designs.
Just in a area, with no locking knives allowed , and having to be less than 3" closed...
Case Peanut , Buck Lancer, Boker Pen knives and others, can be opened rather quickly and still be legal under workplace restrictions.
*curmudgeon*
I grew with mentors that shared learning correct basic fundamentals, and not learning with a crutch.
So I still use a pocket knife, I do not even own a locking knife.
Anything I learned from correct basics , transitions to newer offerings.
Tang: It will not hurt that knife to have a matchstick under the tang.
That tang was designed to be tweaked as the knife was used, and sharpened over years and years, which often means the tip does stick up, depending on how person sharpens.
Remove a smidgen from the tang, and the tip is below handles.
Many do not know this, and many current knife mfgs do not mfg knives as they once did, one reason is the collectors, another is folks are not using knives even if they don't really collect, another is the knife mfg do not know the correct basics themselves , and of course, we have the tactical designs.
Look real close at the old patterns, history is a great teacher, and the old patterns made as they were, were made that way for a reason.
I learned to use a pocket knife, and learned a lot more about "opening" and "closing" one, than any mfg can ever design into knife.
If a lock breaks, one has a blade with zero tension it just flip flops back and forth...
Barehead Slimline Trapper is a favorite of mine and has been forever.
I prefer yellow handles and chrome vanadium blades.
Now this matchstick trick goes back before I was born, and works for any knife.
I was born in the mid 50's, and not all the Veterans from previous conflicts were whole, nor did they have a knife pattern called the One Arm Jack.
Ladies used this matchstick trick, even though the Switchblade knife was originally designed with ladies in mind - not all ladies had a switchblade.
I even use this tip/trick on Case Peanuts , Case small stockman and SAK Classic SD....
Two ways, one may work better for you, depending on you, the knife and all.
1. Matchstick is fitted so the tang does not come all the way down, leaving some of the tip up from handles.
2. Where blade fits into handle, apply and fit just back of blade tip.
Matchstick is a soft wood, it will not dull an edge.
Kitchen matches, or smaller match sticks, allow one to tweak to fit inside the handle and /or liners.
These stay in place quite well and still are easy to remove.
Barehead Slimline Trapper-
Simply retrieve knife from whatever pocket, and just catch the tip on jeans, pants seams, pockets.
Everyone has a preferred method of carry and dress.
Just see what works for you, and make it one fluid move.
I catch on front pockets, and rear pockets, right or left don't matter to me personally, I have been doing this too long.
Catch on a shoe, boot, cardboad box...
This is like a Gov't model of 1911, and left stock, the gun is so easy to run , if not mucked up with all the goopy curb feelers and fuzzy dice folks stick on 1911 clones guns today.
When I stay in practice, I can get one open faster than some with assisted opening.
Buck 110 users , have used this trick along with another, and these Lockback users, Buck 110, or Case Mako Shark, or Shrade equiv, were back when and still can get these out faster than some with newer designs.
Just in a area, with no locking knives allowed , and having to be less than 3" closed...
Case Peanut , Buck Lancer, Boker Pen knives and others, can be opened rather quickly and still be legal under workplace restrictions.
*curmudgeon*
I grew with mentors that shared learning correct basic fundamentals, and not learning with a crutch.
So I still use a pocket knife, I do not even own a locking knife.
Anything I learned from correct basics , transitions to newer offerings.
Tang: It will not hurt that knife to have a matchstick under the tang.
That tang was designed to be tweaked as the knife was used, and sharpened over years and years, which often means the tip does stick up, depending on how person sharpens.
Remove a smidgen from the tang, and the tip is below handles.
Many do not know this, and many current knife mfgs do not mfg knives as they once did, one reason is the collectors, another is folks are not using knives even if they don't really collect, another is the knife mfg do not know the correct basics themselves , and of course, we have the tactical designs.
Look real close at the old patterns, history is a great teacher, and the old patterns made as they were, were made that way for a reason.
I learned to use a pocket knife, and learned a lot more about "opening" and "closing" one, than any mfg can ever design into knife.
If a lock breaks, one has a blade with zero tension it just flip flops back and forth...
sm
I like Chrome Vanadium Steel better than stainless steel. I like the looks of the Barehead Slimline Trapper. I think it also has a lot longer blade than the Case Mid Folding Hunter which is another plus. This is the first time I have seriously considered using a pocket knife for self defense and I don't know much about the subject. But it seems to me if used to stab and/or slash an attacker, because of the shape of the knife and the fact that the blade does not lock; wouldn't it be likely that the blade would fold back on your hand? If there is a way to avoid that, please share.
I like Chrome Vanadium Steel better than stainless steel. I like the looks of the Barehead Slimline Trapper. I think it also has a lot longer blade than the Case Mid Folding Hunter which is another plus. This is the first time I have seriously considered using a pocket knife for self defense and I don't know much about the subject. But it seems to me if used to stab and/or slash an attacker, because of the shape of the knife and the fact that the blade does not lock; wouldn't it be likely that the blade would fold back on your hand? If there is a way to avoid that, please share.
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