Replacing a stock

[varanid]

OK.

I'm getting an older but still good savage .243 (110 model) for a steal because its stock is broken. This'll be my first real project rifle and I'm kind of nervous about replacing a stock and maybe a trigger. I've looked at youtube videos from Boyd's and Midway some, but they have a vested interest in making it look easy. Is it just essentially drop it in if the stock is fully inlet? Is it worth doing something like glass bedding or free floating (and if so how hard is that/how much does it help?

If this goes well I plan to replace the stock on my Axis too That thing is fugly.

 

[LAGS]

@ Varanid
It is not that hard to replace a stock on a rifle with a Semi Pre Fit stock like Boyd's.
If you have some skill level, and wood working experience it can be done fairly quickly.
Now then you get into Glass Bedding, Pillar Bedding, and Free floating the barrel, it jumps up to a whole new skill level.
You then have to have a more extensive knowledge of firearms, and ther workings in relation to the stock.
But Glass Bedding or free floating is not Manditory for a Good shooting rifle.
Your original stock was probably Not Bedded.
But if done correctly, Glass bedding can take your rifle to a whole new level.
But remember,
Glass Bedding will not make a rifle More Accurate.
It only eleminates some of the factors that can Rob Accuracy that you already had.

 

[irl104]

I wish I could be of help. Last time I replaced a stock on a Winchester model 100 a chunk of wood behind the receiver broke off after I shot it. I guess I might have tightened it too tight. A 200.00 mistake. Now I let my gunsmith do everything.

 

[dodge]

With a Boyd's replacement sock you can get them fully inletted so it's just a drop in. I replaced the stock on my Marlin XS7 and it was just a drop in no wood work necessary. With a Savage you probably need to measure the distance between the stock screws but if you go to Boyd's website the information is there so you know that you'll be getting the right stock.

 

[jmr40]

With most bolt rifles it is usually a simple drop in. In some cases a bit of stock material may have to be trimmed for a safety to work etc. Bedding may or may not be needed. You can usually just put a small dab in the recoil lug mortise and do all you need to do. I'd shoot it before doing anything. It will likely be fine.

Most replacement stocks are already free floated. If you need to remove a bit more stock material I use a deep well socket that just fits in the barrel channel. Wrap with sandpaper and sand out the barrel channel. You may have to move up a size if a lot material needs to be removed.

Be careful when ordering for a Savage 110. Over the years they have made subtle changes to the design and there are at least 3 different versions. You need to make sure you order the correct stock to fit your gun. If it is as old as you indicate finding a replacement may be a little harder. Most companies concentrate production on the current versions.

If you look around on Ebay, gunbroker etc. you may well find a factrory takeoff dirt cheap that will fit. People replace their factory stocks quite often and sell the original. I see them from $35-$50 a lot.

 

[bpl]

You can call the company to get the proper torque settings for the stock. They will likely be different for wood vs. synthetic. I have done that several times. I've not replaced a laminate stock. I use the torque screwdriver from Wheeler engineering.

 

[theotherwaldo]

For a utility-grade gun and a first effort, check with Richards Microfit Stocks, Inc. for their factory seconds. They run $60 to $90 plus shipping for basic walnut stocks that don't look too bad. I've only used one, though.

 

[Ks5shooter]

Lotsa options here....... http://www.stockysstocks.com/servlet/StoreFront .......Don

 

[mljdeckard]

There are a variety of stocks that are pretty much drop-in, I would get one, try some Federal Gold Match or your best handloads, and if it is close to 1/2 MOA, I wouldn't bother with any further mods.

 

[Saleen322]

Another vote for Richards. Their laminates are reasonable, attractive and accurate. Here is one of my 110 Savages w/ a Richards stock. Hope this helps.

 

[Txhillbilly]

OK.

I'm getting an older but still good savage .243 (110 model) for a steal because its stock is broken. This'll be my first real project rifle and I'm kind of nervous about replacing a stock and maybe a trigger. I've looked at youtube videos from Boyd's and Midway some, but they have a vested interest in making it look easy. Is it just essentially drop it in if the stock is fully inlet? Is it worth doing something like glass bedding or free floating (and if so how hard is that/how much does it help?

If this goes well I plan to replace the stock on my Axis too That thing is fugly.

Since your 243 is an older rifle built on a long action (110 series),you will need a long action stock for a Staggered Feed magazine. The bolt spacing is the same for all Savage long actions.
Boyd's makes several different styles that will work for your rifle. I have several Boyd's stocks on my Savage rifles.

If your interested in a Composite style of stock,there are several companies that can fill your needs. Choate,H&S Precision,Bell & Carlson,Stockade,Manners,and McMillan.
It all depends on how much you want to spend.

Stocky's Stocks carries a nice selection of both wood/laminate,and composite stocks for Savage rifles.

http://www.stockysstocks.com/servlet/StoreFront

You can also use a Savage Center Feed magazine stock for a long action,but you will need to inlet the frontend of the magazine inlet about a 1/4" for the magazine box on your action to fit in it.
I just did this to a new Boyd's LH Thumbhole stock for my new 6.5-06 build. Boyd's only makes the LH stocks in Center Feed styles,and my action is an older 110 Staggered Feed.

 

[Txhillbilly]

Another vote for Richards. Their laminates are reasonable, attractive and accurate. Here is one of my 110 Savages w/ a Richards stock. Hope this helps.

Nice work! Is that a Wildcat style stock?

 

[varanid]

Thanks TXHillbilly. I'm not looking to spend tons since this is the first time I've done this--but I'm liking the look of a richards stock and their selection is damn nice and prices are reasonable. I prefer wood/laminate to synthetic just for looks.

 

[greyling22]

richards microfit!?! STOP!!!!!!

if you are a first time stock guy please don't use them. Maybe I had a bad experience, maybe they can do better with a savage than the oddball gun I needed a stock for (left hand zastava mini mauser) but I ordered a 95% stock that can about 65%. it looked like a beaver had chewed it out of the log. I spent almost a year of off and on work (at least 100 hours) with a few files, lots of sand paper and a belt sander getting it to rights.

And it took 4 months for the ordered stock to come in, and customer service is so very hard to get on the phone.

Here are some pictures. one is the grade of wood I ordered from richards site. also 2 pictures of what I received when I opened the box. It's not so bad from the outside, it was the inletting that was horrible. I didn't take any pictures, but it was not even close.

 

[greyling22]

Here the stock is sanded, but not finished. Also note that the final product wood doesn't look anything like the advertised pictures. I was talking to a wood guy one time and he said that it looked like a got stump wood, it take way more oil and turns super dark. I don't know, but I'm done with richards, and there are plenty of other reports running around the net about other dissatisfied folks.

The final pic is not the final rifle. I took some sheen off the stock, swapped the scope out to a decent one, changed the bolt handle, bedded it, etc.

 

[Picher]

I recommend that anyone wanting to do some stock fitting read up on glass/pillar bedding. There is great information out there.

The first thing you need is a Moto-Tool with a router bit, or even sanding drum and grinding bits of various shapes.

There needs to be two "pads" to locate the action in the stock where you want it. The rest of the wood should be removed to allow a 1/16" to 1/8" thick layer of bedding compound under the action.

You'll need some other information regarding masking tape and modeling clay to prevent lock-in, but read and understand everything before going ahead and you should be okay. Free-floating the barrel is best.

I recommend pillar-bedding all laminated stocks, since they tend to spread under stress from a rounded receiver.

Good luck

 

[LAGS]

@ Greyling22
If there site said the picture on the left was what they sell as a Grade 1 stock blank or semi inletted stock wood then that is a true decption.
That picture is in the class of Semi Fancy Wood, and not grade 1 wood.
But the stock you got, is what I would call a Grade 1 WOOD
And they would be a Semi Inletted stock and need considerable finishing both on the inletting, and the outside shaping.
But the two stocks are not the same shape either.
The advertised one is clearly a raise cheek piece, and the other is just a Monte Carlo design.
That is what I would have issues with more than the grade of the wood.

 

[greyling22]

I ordered semi fancy. I don't think I got what I paid for. I did get the style I wanted, by the color was off. And their definition of semi inlet and mine differ.

 

[LAGS]

@ Greyling22
If what you got is called Semi Fancy, then the pictured stock would be classified as Super Extra Fancy.
Now all of the stockmakers do have a disclaimer that the color and grain may not be as shown.
But I agree with you, the showing grain on your stock is better than straight grain, but is a far cry from being rated as fancy at all.
But a Semi inletted stock now a days means , they inletted them with a Semi Tractor Trailer.
But it is better than having to bed the action to fit the inletting.
And Yes, I have got those from different companies over the years.

So now, I mostly just buy Blanks, and do the whole stock myself.
I wish I had a duplicator, or access to one again.
But I still have to build the Pattern from scratch.

 

[greyling22]

LAGS, my biggest beef was that I ordered what was described as 95% inlet, and what I got was nowhere near that. Now, that can be dealt with, but I don't think it is the kind of thing that should be entered into lightly or like the OP was looking for, drop in. I'm not saying nobody should order from richards, but I don't think he should.

If I had some more tools, like better chisels and some rasps my stock would have been a whole lot easier. It takes a long long time to cut a barrel channel with sandpaper wrapped around a broom handle.

 

[Tony k]

I had to replace the stock on my Savage 111 in .270 in the middle of cow elk season this year. I went with Boyds and coundn't be happier. As other have said, if you go with boyds, make sure you do all the measurements they recommend.

Mine is a left handed praire hunter model.

Everything was literally drop in with no work required. I think I'll try bedding it this winter, but I don't think that's absolutely necessary in my case.

They also recommeded getting longer bolts. I got them but ended up not needing them.

 

[theotherwaldo]

I purchased an older Savage 110 in .270 a few years ago. It has a Boyd's stock much like the one shown above, and I'm very pleased with the combination. It is my most accurate rifle.

However, I didn't fit the stock so I don't know if there were any problems.

I did fit and finish the one I suggested on an old Czech Mauser and everything went very well. YMMV.

 

[LAGS]

I have never dealt with Richards, but have with Boyd's.
The Pre finished Boyd's I got fit Perfect, but I still Full bedded them and free floated the barrels.
But indeed, having the right tools makes things a lot easier.
But the average guy is not going to buy a Barrel Bedding tool to do One Rifle.
So the Pre fit, Pre Finished is the way he should go.
And the Boyds Semi Inletted, rough stocks are too very nice and can be installed and finished with simple Home Tools.

 

[Saleen322]

Is that a Wildcat style stock?

Yes. The last 2 or 3 I did I used a Wildcat style. I really like them and they always get nice compliments on the range from the folks there. More importantly, they are so natural to hold with a choice of the thumb hole or just gripping it conventional.

I have done at least 5 from Richards, all 95% as I like to get good wood to metal fit and I like to work with wood. Over the years I have also had Bishop, Fajen, Boyd, and some I can't remember. All are good but Richards is far and away my favorite. I did regular walnut for years but I tried a brown on brown laminate that was on sale and was hooked. This is my opinion on them. Very strong, as good as synthetic in weather but heavier. I don't have fancy stock tools; I have some dowel rods in different widths that I wrap sandpaper around and two sharp chisels. The press fits may be easier but I have never tried any. The only complaints I heard about Richards are from folks who think all they need is some varnish and a screwdriver to install them, there is more work involved. I do recommend you pay the extra dollars when buying the stock and have them put on the butt plate/recoil pad as that will save time and effort. Check out the specials-closeout pages as they very likely have a 110 stock there already made and they will still add a pad if you want. I glass bed all of my stocks. The key areas are the recoil lug and rear tang. The 110 in the picture had set in the safe for over a year and I needed to check the zero on it in a short time frame. As the picture shows it was snowing so the conditions were not perfect. Here are 5 shots @ 100 yards after it not being shot in over a year. The stocks hold zero. Good luck to you.