Resizing/decapping question?

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TheHappyGunner

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Hi guys,

Just a quick question here. When I started handloading, I had an experienced friend help me set up and then set the depth of the dies that sit on the press. I use RCBS. That was for .30-40, but now I'm tackling .30-06 on my own. Here's what I'm wondering though:

For the decapping/resizing die, mine only resizes the neck (not the entire case body) and deprimes. When I was trying to discover how deep to screw the die into the press, a few times I got it to push the primer out fine, but the case resisted me trying to pull the lever down all the way. I stopped as soon as I met this resistance. At this point I backed the die off to the last point where I am able to pull the lever down all the way. Now I think I have totally resized the necks and the primers are punching out as usual. Is this ok? Is there any possible danger I can face at this phase of the reloading process that may make the case dangerous to shoot or even reload? The cases appear to be as they should, but I like to be VERY cautious as I am dealing with explosives (and I'm new to the game).

I always research before I post threads. I've tried to find an answer to my question but haven't been able to find a suitable answer. I'm sure you know though! If there's anything that I'm unclear about, please ask me to clarify and I will be happy to do so.

Thanks for your help!
 
If shooting a bolt gun you can neck size the case a few times before needing to F/L resize. If the bolt is hard to close with a neck sized only case, then a F/L size is in order. If loading for an auto loader neck sizing isn't going to do it for you. bullets should not just drop into your neck sized case.

Your neck die should have come with instructions. I would set up the die accordingly. The de-capping pin depth should be adjustable. I like to set mine up so the cap is pushed out reliably, but no deeper than that. If your neck sizing will hold a bullet firmly, and not allow you to push it deeper into the case with out the bullet seater, then you should be OK. HTH Tim
 
You need to adj the stem down on the de-capper. There should be a locking nut to loose then adj the threaded rod down. Normally 3/16"-1/4" of the pin needs to stick below the bottom of the die.

Like P-32 said you will need a FL sizer to to push the should back. Once sized confirm that you can close the bolt with out resistance. Normally you can get 2-3 neck sizing before FL is required. If the brass was not fire formed in your rifle you may need to FL size too.
 
If you are neck sizing brass fired from your rifle, use a sharpie to make a stripe the length of the neck. Adjust your die so that it sizes about 3/4 of the length of the neck only. You will be able to see it scrape off the marker. You will cause more problems if you size all of it. As everyone has said, you will still need to FL size at some point. Pick up a FL die and adjust it to size your brass just enough to fit in your chamber without bolt resistance. Do not follow the "cam-over" instructions that come with the die, this could cause headspace issues in some rifles.
 
The gun I'm looking to be handloading for now is my M1 Garand. My parents bought these (used, but appear very new) dies for me for Christmas. Alas, no instructions came with them which is why I came here.

Following Blue's marker idea, would the 20 some cases I have already done be unsafe or just troublesome? (assuming that I have resized the entire neck on all of them)
 
A common RCBS neck die should be quiet easy to adjust, as your not worried about any shoulder contact. So, put the shell holder in the ram, run the ram to full extension, and then screw the die into the press until it just contacts the shell holder. that should be sufficient to size the entire neck, or at least enough for all practical purposes. Then lightly lube the inside / outside neck on a case and run through the die. Make sure to use full ram stroke.

When adjusting the decapping pin, I just adjust it so it protrudes about 3/8" from the die, or enough that it consistently pops the spent primers out. Nothing precision here, just don't extend it so far out of the die. that the expander plug makes contact the case web, or flash hole, thus deforming one or both.

GS
 
Thanks for the replies, guys. I will try to get these set up tomorrow.

But still... is there any possibility that the cases I have already sized using my first method would be dangerous to shoot in a Garand? Comparing one of these cases to a freshly shot case reveals no drastic differences between the two dimension wise. I can't see ANY difference at all which tells me it should be ok. I'll break out the calipers tomorrow too to check them. What, if anything, would prove them too dangerous to shoot?
 
Wait a minute, neck size only for a Garand? It's generally recommended to full length size when sizing for autoloaders or you could end up with feeding/chambering problems.
 
happygunner, assuming that you got the correct amount of powder in the rounds and the only question is are they safe to chamber, I'd try them. Load one and see of the bolt closes all the way. If it does shoot it and try the next one, being sure to check for full bolt closure every time. If the bolt doesn't close I would pull them apart and get a 30-36 set. You can get a lee set for as little as 20 bucks. But after you shoot these, if all you have is a neck sizer, you should get a full length sizing die anyway. I have a lee set that I use for my garand and they all chamber fine. I have not needed a small base die thus far.

Please don't blow up your face, hands or gun. It is better to be safe than sorry, especially with as little as a set of dies runs.
 
The gun I'm looking to be handloading for now is my M1 Garand. My parents bought these (used, but appear very new) dies for me for Christmas. Alas, no instructions came with them which is why I came here.
Click to expand...

OK a game changer. I've reloaded many many M1 loads used in competition both 3006 and 308. M1 ammo needs to be full length sized every time. I have yet to use a small based die and my F/L RCBS dies work well for an 30-06 M1. If your bullet has a crimp groove, you can crimp. If not, don't crimp it.

Powder selection for the M1 is limited. Good powders are IMR 3031, IMR 4895, H4895, IMR 4064 (my Favorite) Varget and R15 might work but I have not tried these in 06 And any other powders with similar burn rates as the powders listed. There are adjustable plugs so the burn rate of slower powders will work but I think your to early in your reloading career to worry about this. Using to slow burning powder in the M1 will bend your op rod. Op rods are like gold.

Primers can be an issue with the M1's free floating firing pin. I would use only CCI primers. CCI also makes a large rifle mil spec primer.

Bullets 175 grains and heavier should be avoided.

Primers must be absolutely seated low in the primer pocket. One of the best bang for the buck is a primer pocket uniformer, which makes seating primers below flush of the case base easier and makes the ammo shoot a little better if the brass is not very uniform. Seat a primer high and you may have to deal with a slam fire. A slam fire is when the round goes off just prior to the bolt being fully closed and is well documented. If you chamber a round and let the bolt fly home, pull the round and you will see a "dimple" in the primer from the firing pin. This is normal. you just need to be aware. Do this with the safety on and in a safe direction.

IMHO, GI brass is best but there is a primer crimp to remove. For powder charges, start at the beginning and work up. I've found some good shooting ammo at the mid range of the charts. I have a load which I would have to look up which uses a SMK 155 gr Palma bullet using IMR 4064 which will hold the 10 ring at 600 yards with a M1 suitable for John C. Garand matches. This load is not hot at all and shoots well in several of my M1's. I like the 155 Palma's better than the 168 SMK's.

The Garand can be fun to shoot but you have to be careful and pay attention to what you are doing when loading for this beast. The M1 is one of those rifles you DON"T want to set the grass on fire in front of the mussel by loading hot! Mild is better. M1's are strong but parts are getting harder to find. HTH Tim
 
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TheHappyGunner said:
Thanks for the replies, guys. I will try to get these set up tomorrow.

But still... is there any possibility that the cases I have already sized using my first method would be dangerous to shoot in a Garand? Comparing one of these cases to a freshly shot case reveals no drastic differences between the two dimension wise. I can't see ANY difference at all which tells me it should be ok. I'll break out the calipers tomorrow too to check them. What, if anything, would prove them too dangerous to shoot?
Click to expand...
If I read your original post correctly you did end up FL sizing. If It was me I would adj the die correctly and resize them all. Use the lube on the body only, keep it away from the neck. Then make up a dummy round to make sure it will chamber without any issues.
 
TheHappyGunner,

Check your die set. If it does not say F.L. Die Set or something similar, then you need to get a different resizing die. You cannot load for the Garand by just necksizing your brass.

Don
 
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