Resizing rings/slivers

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Xelera

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I have this issue running on a different forum I visit and am getting some mixed responses. Figured I'd run it by you guys here as well.

When I am resizing my 223 brass (Redding dies, RCBS Rockchucker Press) I am getting some rub marks, which I am told by correspondence with Redding, is normal. I explained to them that I am also getting brass shavings sometimes, in the form of half-moon or full rings, coming off the brass near the webbing at the base.

Here is an image showing what I am talking about.

brass2.jpg


They do not all do this. I have had issues in the past where Federal brass was really soft and gave slivers, but almost all brass leaves slight rub marks at the base. This last batch, and the brand shown in the picture, is Winchester, which usually is pretty solid stuff.

The next picture shows how slivered brass vs non-slivered brass compares side-by-side when the one on the left shows long rub marks off brass that left slivers when resized, compared to the one on the right with no sliver and a more typical/acceptable resizing mark, out of the same die/press/brass lot.

brass1.jpg


Redding had me send the die, and 5 rounds fired through my AR. Die was returned with the brass resized through my rifle. All 5 looked like the brass on the right, in the picture above. Redding says die measured in spec as did resized brass fired out of my rifle.

So the question is, the brass I have been resizing where about 4/5 leave rub marks and slivers... is it safe to shoot with marks and more importantly, brass slivers removed like that? It's a mix of once-fired range brass bought at Graf and Sons, and some once fired brass from a friends rifle.

I've had some people say rub marks are normal, and even slivers are, and others say not a chance, don't shoot it if slivers come off. Any experience here which can validate either of those positions?

My goal is not to have to fire factory ammo first in my rifle, to get acceptable brass, nor to spend the money on never fired new brass for reloading. Range brass is cheapest, and is sort of the reason I got into reloading, for cost savings in the long run. May have to adjust my plans/goals in regard to reloading if I cannot safely/confidently reload brass that looks like the slivered/rubbed brass above.

Thanks in advance.
 
Definitely not normal or IMO acceptable. I have resized thousands of once fired/ range pickup .223 cases of many headstamps and have never shaved brass, period. I don't even get the ring that you show in the other picture that I recall. It sounds like a die issue to me. I know they told you it was fine, but if it were me I would consider buying a different brand resizing die and see if that solves your problem. I use a set of Lee dies for my .223. I don't know what else it could be, but maybe others will have another thought.
 
In order to shave like that there would have to be a sharp edge at the base of the die. A little polishing with some sand paper to knock the edge off would fix it. You may also try a different lube, remove the friction and this will not happen.
 
I've seen similar pics of that nature. I have never had that happen to me.

I'm with 243wxb, I don't think it's good to remove brass from the case. If your not using RCBS lube, it is good stuff and it lasts a long time.

I'm probably way off base but here's a thought. Could some torsion in your press let the brass cock to one side? Since the shaving is not a complete circle. Is the shavings always on one side of the die or only on one side of the press?

*I did not see full circles:eek:
 
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The rubbing marks are OK but the shaving pieces are definitely not normal. Never have seen slivers like that except from hard crimping handgun rounds.

You've been to the well with Redding who didn't seem very helpful. Measurements might be OK, but there might also be irregularities that should have been taken care of. What did they say about the slivers? So, I would toss that die and get a new one, different brand, like RCBS. Might be just as cheap to buy a new set.
 
any chance you have some junk in the back end of your shellholder that is preventing cases from being 100% centered?
 
That is not normal in no way shape or form. Slight rub marks are normal, but you are taking brass off the case at the most prone part to fail and leave half a case stuck in the chamber to dig out.:uhoh: I would get a new die and try that. I have never shaved anything from a case in the 23 years I have been reloading.
 
I have never seen that case shaving in 50 years of reloading everything from .308 , 30-06, and 5.56 military brass, to many other commercial & wildcat calibers.

Including case forming larger calibers to smaller calibers.


Something is wrong with your sizing die being sharp enough on the entry edge to do it.

Or as Reefinmike mentioned, you have crap stuck in the shell holder holding the case way off-center in the die.

rc
 
In 223/5.56 I have two sets of Lee dies and a set of RCBS dies. None of my sizers cause this to happen. Just a slight discoloration/scuff marks on surplus brass fired from a SAW. I think you have a bad die whether the company agrees or not. IMHO your least expensive option is to get a LEE RGB die set in 223. Great price for a sizer die and seating die. That is what I did to get a second set for backup--------then found a gently used RCBS set as well.:) I have a friend that had problems with a 6.5X55 sizer from Lyman and they said the die was OK as well, but a new die of a different brand solved his problem. YMMV
 
Was it my die, I would figure out a way to spin it up in a drill and chamfer the edge of the die with a Dremel polishing point, or Emory paper on a stick.

rc
 
Thanks for the replies.

I use Imperial Sizing Wax. I've considered over- or under- lubrication and gone to both extremes with no changes in results. It works fine for my 9mm and .308 reloads.

I clean dies before and after each use, and every 100 rounds through them while using them.

The picture indicates a half-moon sliver, but I've been getting about a 50/50 mix of half-moon and full ring slivers.

These were not carbide dies. They were Redding Deluxe 3-die set.

I bought a 223 Lee 4-die set for the factory crimp die, and I think at this point, I am going to start using those instead.

I did wonder about checking the alignment between the ram and the threads on the the RCBS Rockchucker Press, just to see, but I cannot find a tool that is designed for that. Someone did suggest to me, to take the snap-spring off the ram, so the shellholders can slide a bit more, to align better if there is some misalignment - haven't tried that yet.
 
If that's the result of a misaligned die, it would be rather obvious by looking at the stop line around the circumference of the brass. I would expect to see one side inset, and the other side pushed outward along the line.

IMO, even if the brass is entering the die misaligned, I wouldn't think it would shave.

GS
 
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These were not carbide dies. They were Redding Deluxe 3-die set.
Thats a mote point, as nobody anywhere makes .223 or .308 Carbide sizing dies except Dillon.

Anyway, I still think the edge of the die is too sharp / not rounded off as it should be or it simply could not shave brass off a case.

But, you can also badly mis-center a die in the press by locking the lock ring down tight without a case in the shell holder & die.

There is a LOT of slop in 7/8" x 14 die threads, and if not centered in the press with a case in the loose die?

It can be pulled off-center considerably when the lock ring it tight.
I can't describe how to do it, but run the case up in a loose die with the deprimer pin through the flash hole and wiggle everything around to center it.

And then tighten the lock ring tight with the ram full up with the case in the die.

rc
 
I have one press that the threads are pretty sloppy, and when I use that press I wrap some Teflon tape around the die threads, could give that a try?

GS
 
I've never had a case in the shell holder when installing the die... directions said to raise the ram with shell holder installed, then thread in die until it made contact and go 1/4 turn further, then lock.

I'll see what this does before discounting the Redding die (in addition to polishing the die as well). I like the teflon tape idea.

If the threads are sloppy, I wonder if switching to a breech-lock design would snug this up. I believe the Hornady version works for RCBS as well.

I'll post an update when I find more out. Thanks.
 
Thats a mote point, as nobody anywhere makes .223 or .308 Carbide sizing dies except Dillon.

Anyway, I still think the edge of the die is too sharp / not rounded off as it should be or it simply could not shave brass off a case.

But, you can also badly mis-center a die in the press by locking the lock ring down tight without a case in the shell holder & die.

There is a LOT of slop in 7/8" x 14 die threads, and if not centered in the press with a case in the loose die?

It can be pulled off-center considerably when the lock ring it tight.
I can't describe how to do it, but run the case up in a loose die with the deprimer pin through the flash hole and wiggle everything around to center it.

And then tighten the lock ring tight with the ram full up with the case in the die.

rc
Add Lyman to that list...
 
I reload 13 calibers two things here first buy new dies second I've been using Lee dies and Lee lube one a Lee anniversary single stage approaching a quarter million reloads in 12 years and if there were rub marks on my brass I would find that unacceptable it should look better than factory when you are done lapua brass were I am is 230 dollars for 100 308 casings Norma brass is 180 dollars how on earth could any marks on a 2 dollar piece of brass be called normal or acceptable I have never seen such a mess I would bee ashamed to show anyone and say I have good equipment like I said unacceptable buy some lube and new dies uploadfromtaptalk1426308793274.jpg
300 win mags loaded hot 7 reloads Remington and winchester only [ATTAC
H]208779[/ATTACH]
308 these are on there 9th reload Remington and winchester only
 

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These have alway been full length resized and do show a ring on the base of the 308 but there is a high pressure pushing 208 grain Hornady match any cleaning is corn dry media tumbler that is all I leave them in all night but almost 10 loads 2 annealings
 
I have never experienced this problem, I do not have a die that does not have a radius.

I have one sizing die that that has been ground for a short chamber, it is a 6.5mm284, It did not have a radius.

F. Guffey
 
were I am is 230 dollars for 100 308 casings Norma brass is 180 dollars how on earth could any marks on a 2 dollar piece of brass be called normal or acceptable
$230?!?!?! Where the hell are you at?? In the middle of the amazon desert where they have to drop it by plane?!?!? I bought 100 Brand new Lapua 308 Winchester brass a couple of months ago, and after shipping they were less that $90. :eek:
 
Using a Dremel will most likely give you an out of round die. Precise tools they ain't.
Ain't no way the die would get out of the factory with ANY sharp edges.
That case was likely fired in an out of spec chamber. Or the shell holder wasn't in right.
 
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