Eleanor416Rigby
Member
Everything in this review is from my hunting perspective. I don’t really enjoy target shooting that much. I don’t shoot for groups. I shoot for one predictable shot from a cold barrel.
The bad: PLASTIC. I realize that it’s 2013 and some plastics can be as good as or better than steel in many applications. I like plastic frames for concealed carry ala Glock, Springfield XD, etc. However, the plastic stock, trigger guard, magazine, and insert in the stock to fit the magazine just feel cheap. IMHO The stock is too slim, and it looks flimsy. Worse yet, it actually is flimsy. I like a little wider fore end because it feels better in my hand and sits better on a rest for me.
I do not like detachable box magazines in hunting rifles. I have never needed a quick re-load after emptying a magazine. If I empty a magazine in the field, I’ll need a quick trip to the range, not more ammunition to scare the deer with. I have, however dropped a detachable box magazine on the ground, and I have been known to lose things.
The black finish on the metal is not impressive. If it lasts and protects, it will be fine for me. I’m not too concerned with the looks, but if you are, a blued rifle or SS would be much nicer looking.
The good: Package Price. $549 for the rifle and Nikon Prostaff 3-9 X 40 with BDC reticle. It also includes sling studs. The scope or a similar quality one would retail for $150 to $200. I did not try the bullet drop compensation feature on the scope. I learned to shoot at hunting ranges without it, and I don’t trust it. If the crosshairs are not exactly vertical and horizontal at the time you take the shot, the ballistic drop reticle will mess up the windage. BTW, at sunset on the range, the burris on my 30-30 and the simmons on my .223 both handled the yellow glare better, allowing me to shoot with my polarized glasses. (I was rotating rifles to keep barrels from getting hot.) The Nikon required me to take my polarized glasses off to get a clear sight picture with the sunset glare coming in. I tend to work with the sun at my back or get in a shaded area when hunting, so it’s a non-factor for my purposes most of the time. I was able to shoot fine with the Nikon without my polarized glasses.
Accutrigger: pull is light and creep is minimal. After dry firing, I decided not to adjust. It seemed fine and predictable out of the box. I flinched on the range when a shooter next to me fired one, and it made me go off target just before firing. Mistakenly, I kept my finger on the trigger while bringing my cross hairs back on target and it went off for a 5-inch flyer. It’s probably the lightest trigger I have used other than bench rest or double trigger.
Accuracy out of the box: With minor modifications not likely to have changed the accuracy, it shot spot on within the first box of cartridges I ran through it. (Federal 180 gr. Pointed soft point). By spot on, I mean I aimed at a dot and it struck about 3” high right over the spot at 100 yds. That way, I can hold on the boiler room from 0 to 300 and humanely harvest anything in N. America. I don’t really shoot for groups. I shoot for being able to predict one shot from a cold barrel. It is a hunting rifle.
Modifications: I’m not a gunsmith and I did not want to “build” a rifle for hunting, but I had to make some minor mods. The stock was the only thing I felt I absolutely had to change. I didn’t want to pay for a custom and was not satisfied with the fitment prospects of available drop-ins, so I fiber-glassed the fore end of the plastic stock and painted it a wood-like brown. Then I cut a 1” strip of 100 grit sand paper and ran it under the barrel to make it float a little more freely. It was already free, but I wanted more clearance. I also ordered and installed a metal trigger guard from Savage for around $20.00 plus shipping. The Accutrigger makes the trigger assembly a little more complicated and after it flew apart, it took me a while to piece it back together correctly.
Miscellaneous: Screws in the scope rings were not installed tightly. The scope was loose enough in the rings to turn by hand. I took out every screw in the bases and rings and installed them with loc tite.
It feels lighter than I expected. It’s listed at around 8 lbs., which is a little light for a magnum rifle including scope. Before I settled in to a good position with good form, it was beating me up. It was Texas January, so I had just a flannel shirt. The first few rounds, I was getting hammered. The .300 win mag with 180 gr. bullets reminded me to mind my form. After that, it was fine. I’ve been shooting .270, 30-30, 12 gauge with buck shot, and with all of those recoil is a non-factor. I thought about filling up the hollow parts of the stock with lead shot, but after remembering my form, it was ok. The recoil “pad” is hard as woodpecker lips.
I don't like the parlor trick you have to play to get the bolt out by pulling the trigger and sliding the little button back at the same time. It's not necessary.
Summary: Too much plastic, but a pretty good buy for the money, especially if you are able to fix or replace the plastic stock cheaply. It’s built on an action proven to perform. Nothing on it is visually attractive, but it will put venison on the table. I would trade the scope, rings, and sling studs for a decent wood stock.
The bad: PLASTIC. I realize that it’s 2013 and some plastics can be as good as or better than steel in many applications. I like plastic frames for concealed carry ala Glock, Springfield XD, etc. However, the plastic stock, trigger guard, magazine, and insert in the stock to fit the magazine just feel cheap. IMHO The stock is too slim, and it looks flimsy. Worse yet, it actually is flimsy. I like a little wider fore end because it feels better in my hand and sits better on a rest for me.
I do not like detachable box magazines in hunting rifles. I have never needed a quick re-load after emptying a magazine. If I empty a magazine in the field, I’ll need a quick trip to the range, not more ammunition to scare the deer with. I have, however dropped a detachable box magazine on the ground, and I have been known to lose things.
The black finish on the metal is not impressive. If it lasts and protects, it will be fine for me. I’m not too concerned with the looks, but if you are, a blued rifle or SS would be much nicer looking.
The good: Package Price. $549 for the rifle and Nikon Prostaff 3-9 X 40 with BDC reticle. It also includes sling studs. The scope or a similar quality one would retail for $150 to $200. I did not try the bullet drop compensation feature on the scope. I learned to shoot at hunting ranges without it, and I don’t trust it. If the crosshairs are not exactly vertical and horizontal at the time you take the shot, the ballistic drop reticle will mess up the windage. BTW, at sunset on the range, the burris on my 30-30 and the simmons on my .223 both handled the yellow glare better, allowing me to shoot with my polarized glasses. (I was rotating rifles to keep barrels from getting hot.) The Nikon required me to take my polarized glasses off to get a clear sight picture with the sunset glare coming in. I tend to work with the sun at my back or get in a shaded area when hunting, so it’s a non-factor for my purposes most of the time. I was able to shoot fine with the Nikon without my polarized glasses.
Accutrigger: pull is light and creep is minimal. After dry firing, I decided not to adjust. It seemed fine and predictable out of the box. I flinched on the range when a shooter next to me fired one, and it made me go off target just before firing. Mistakenly, I kept my finger on the trigger while bringing my cross hairs back on target and it went off for a 5-inch flyer. It’s probably the lightest trigger I have used other than bench rest or double trigger.
Accuracy out of the box: With minor modifications not likely to have changed the accuracy, it shot spot on within the first box of cartridges I ran through it. (Federal 180 gr. Pointed soft point). By spot on, I mean I aimed at a dot and it struck about 3” high right over the spot at 100 yds. That way, I can hold on the boiler room from 0 to 300 and humanely harvest anything in N. America. I don’t really shoot for groups. I shoot for being able to predict one shot from a cold barrel. It is a hunting rifle.
Modifications: I’m not a gunsmith and I did not want to “build” a rifle for hunting, but I had to make some minor mods. The stock was the only thing I felt I absolutely had to change. I didn’t want to pay for a custom and was not satisfied with the fitment prospects of available drop-ins, so I fiber-glassed the fore end of the plastic stock and painted it a wood-like brown. Then I cut a 1” strip of 100 grit sand paper and ran it under the barrel to make it float a little more freely. It was already free, but I wanted more clearance. I also ordered and installed a metal trigger guard from Savage for around $20.00 plus shipping. The Accutrigger makes the trigger assembly a little more complicated and after it flew apart, it took me a while to piece it back together correctly.
Miscellaneous: Screws in the scope rings were not installed tightly. The scope was loose enough in the rings to turn by hand. I took out every screw in the bases and rings and installed them with loc tite.
It feels lighter than I expected. It’s listed at around 8 lbs., which is a little light for a magnum rifle including scope. Before I settled in to a good position with good form, it was beating me up. It was Texas January, so I had just a flannel shirt. The first few rounds, I was getting hammered. The .300 win mag with 180 gr. bullets reminded me to mind my form. After that, it was fine. I’ve been shooting .270, 30-30, 12 gauge with buck shot, and with all of those recoil is a non-factor. I thought about filling up the hollow parts of the stock with lead shot, but after remembering my form, it was ok. The recoil “pad” is hard as woodpecker lips.
I don't like the parlor trick you have to play to get the bolt out by pulling the trigger and sliding the little button back at the same time. It's not necessary.
Summary: Too much plastic, but a pretty good buy for the money, especially if you are able to fix or replace the plastic stock cheaply. It’s built on an action proven to perform. Nothing on it is visually attractive, but it will put venison on the table. I would trade the scope, rings, and sling studs for a decent wood stock.
