HisDivineShadow
Member
Okay I am pretty sure I am going to just get this over with and firelap my revolver. I plan to write what I am going to do and if you guys got any pointers it'd be appreciated.
I reamed the throats on this gun that where undersized and it reduced leading quite a bit. Still leads though and the location of it indicates I got a constriction, I felt it when slugging the bore last time too. So I got the lapping compound that I've heard is the best, Clover 320 grit, it will break down into finer grit as it travels down the barrel and help give that proper tapered profile.
I cast my own wadcutter bullets so I got a choice of a 220gr hollow base or 250gr solid wadcutter. I am thinking I will use a pure lead alloy with some tin mixed in, no antimony or other stuff. A load of about 3.5 grains of Vihtavuori tin star should yield about 600fps out of my barrel.
I will then seat these flush or almost flush with the case and fire them. Every cylinder I will take apart and clean the gun , what is best here to get rid of the abrasive grit and such. Will I need sacrificial brass brushes that I use once and discard? Or can I get it out with just patches and ballistol (or something else)?
After cleaning I will slug it, maybe the hollowbase WC bullets will be well suited for this task? If there is no constriction I will stop, if not repeat the above steps for another cylinder. After I am happy that the constriction is gone I plan to do this for the finishing touch, advice was given to me earlier:
I am also considering reaming the forcing cone to 11 degrees since I shoot primarly lead SWCs and WCs in this gun. Not sure if I should do that after or before firelapping?
I reamed the throats on this gun that where undersized and it reduced leading quite a bit. Still leads though and the location of it indicates I got a constriction, I felt it when slugging the bore last time too. So I got the lapping compound that I've heard is the best, Clover 320 grit, it will break down into finer grit as it travels down the barrel and help give that proper tapered profile.
I cast my own wadcutter bullets so I got a choice of a 220gr hollow base or 250gr solid wadcutter. I am thinking I will use a pure lead alloy with some tin mixed in, no antimony or other stuff. A load of about 3.5 grains of Vihtavuori tin star should yield about 600fps out of my barrel.
I will then seat these flush or almost flush with the case and fire them. Every cylinder I will take apart and clean the gun , what is best here to get rid of the abrasive grit and such. Will I need sacrificial brass brushes that I use once and discard? Or can I get it out with just patches and ballistol (or something else)?
After cleaning I will slug it, maybe the hollowbase WC bullets will be well suited for this task? If there is no constriction I will stop, if not repeat the above steps for another cylinder. After I am happy that the constriction is gone I plan to do this for the finishing touch, advice was given to me earlier:
320 or 400 grit Clover lapping compound is all you need. One special property of the abrasive used in Clover is that it breaks down into a finer grit as it abraids the steel. One bit of technique that most miss is to give the fully lapped bbl a good cleaning, then coat up a bob and give the bbl 100 back and forth strokes as rapidily as you can. I use an old bore brush wrapped with a long, continuous strip of cotton taken from a pair of old skivvies. Make it a snug fit and then coat it with the same lapping compound. Once done, clean it again and tell me it isn't smooth. All those strokes break down the grit to super fine. You almost can't see the rifling it's so shiny and freak out
I am also considering reaming the forcing cone to 11 degrees since I shoot primarly lead SWCs and WCs in this gun. Not sure if I should do that after or before firelapping?