eddism
Member
I am considering purchasing a FNH rifled shotgun. Do I have the flexibility to use any type of shells or only slugs?
Thanks for your input.
Thanks for your input.
rifled shotgun
- Thread starter eddism
- Start date
- Status
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Rifled shotguns are designed for use with Sabot type slugs.
The rifleing is used to spin stabilize the bullet inside the sabot.
Forster type Rifled slugs, buckshot, and birdshot are designed for use in smoothbore barrels.
When used with a rifled barrel, the rifling will quickly pick up bore leading from slugs, and shot patterns will be spun out into a doughnut shape with no shot in the center of it.
rc
The rifleing is used to spin stabilize the bullet inside the sabot.
Forster type Rifled slugs, buckshot, and birdshot are designed for use in smoothbore barrels.
When used with a rifled barrel, the rifling will quickly pick up bore leading from slugs, and shot patterns will be spun out into a doughnut shape with no shot in the center of it.
rc
BBroadside
Member
As far as I know, it is always safe to use shot through a rifled barrel. Is this correct?
I say this because even though, as rcmodel has pointed out, shot patterns are awful out of rifled barrels, it is conceivable that you'd want to fire shot through one on some strange occasion. Stranger things have been used in home defense than rifled shotguns....
One thing I learned recently is, it isn't generally safe to use sabot slug out of smooth barrels. Beyond the worse-than-musket accuracy, sabots won't compress going through a choke - the fully-rifled guns they are designed for never have a choke. So a smoothbore cylinder gun will only have terrible accuracy with a sabot slug, while the same slug will seriously damage a choked smoothbore.
So in short, fully-rifled slug guns are for sabot slugs and nothing else. Smoothbore guns are for everything but sabot slugs. (Rifled tubes in variable-choke guns complicate matters a little.) The popularity of the fully-rifled sabots-only slug gun attests to the popularity of deer hunting and large numbers of shotgun-only hunting areas, I think.
I say this because even though, as rcmodel has pointed out, shot patterns are awful out of rifled barrels, it is conceivable that you'd want to fire shot through one on some strange occasion. Stranger things have been used in home defense than rifled shotguns....
One thing I learned recently is, it isn't generally safe to use sabot slug out of smooth barrels. Beyond the worse-than-musket accuracy, sabots won't compress going through a choke - the fully-rifled guns they are designed for never have a choke. So a smoothbore cylinder gun will only have terrible accuracy with a sabot slug, while the same slug will seriously damage a choked smoothbore.
So in short, fully-rifled slug guns are for sabot slugs and nothing else. Smoothbore guns are for everything but sabot slugs. (Rifled tubes in variable-choke guns complicate matters a little.) The popularity of the fully-rifled sabots-only slug gun attests to the popularity of deer hunting and large numbers of shotgun-only hunting areas, I think.
BADUNAME37
Member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,434
I must disagree with some.
I just purchased a Mossberg 24" Rifled & Ported Barrel with Willimas front and rear sights. I have studied this topic endlessly and have found that you can shoot any kind of slugs from the fully rifled barrel. A rifled slug has rifling on it so it can crush to go through a full choke gun, however slugs are recommended to be shot through cylinder bore.
Apparently the air against the slug's 'fins' results in some spin, however not much. For this reason, you can also shoot a saboted slug out of a smooth barrel. Results will typically be best when shooting any slug out of a fully rifled barrel.
rc model is correct that a dougnout-shaped pattern will occur if you shoot lead shot through a rifled barrel. Lead shot should not ruin the rifling or the barrel, as the lead is much softer than the barrel rifling.
You do NOT want to shoot any steel shot or any shot other than lead, if you must. However, it is better if you do not shoot shot as severe leading will occur.
I sighted my gun in with Remongton Slugger 2 3/4" rifled slugs. I had new boxes and older boxes and all the slugs were identical. The older boxes state on them that the slugs are good for both rifled and smooth barrels, however better results will be gotten through a rifled barrel than through a smooth barrel. The new boxes stated that they should only be shot out of smoothbore guns. The reason is that they want you to spend more on the newer Sabot Slug!
Then I shot some 3" Magnum Sabots and was basically pulling the same groups and same point of impact as the old style foster slugs.
I just purchased a Mossberg 24" Rifled & Ported Barrel with Willimas front and rear sights. I have studied this topic endlessly and have found that you can shoot any kind of slugs from the fully rifled barrel. A rifled slug has rifling on it so it can crush to go through a full choke gun, however slugs are recommended to be shot through cylinder bore.
Apparently the air against the slug's 'fins' results in some spin, however not much. For this reason, you can also shoot a saboted slug out of a smooth barrel. Results will typically be best when shooting any slug out of a fully rifled barrel.
rc model is correct that a dougnout-shaped pattern will occur if you shoot lead shot through a rifled barrel. Lead shot should not ruin the rifling or the barrel, as the lead is much softer than the barrel rifling.
You do NOT want to shoot any steel shot or any shot other than lead, if you must. However, it is better if you do not shoot shot as severe leading will occur.
I sighted my gun in with Remongton Slugger 2 3/4" rifled slugs. I had new boxes and older boxes and all the slugs were identical. The older boxes state on them that the slugs are good for both rifled and smooth barrels, however better results will be gotten through a rifled barrel than through a smooth barrel. The new boxes stated that they should only be shot out of smoothbore guns. The reason is that they want you to spend more on the newer Sabot Slug!
Then I shot some 3" Magnum Sabots and was basically pulling the same groups and same point of impact as the old style foster slugs.
OP
OP
eddism
Member
Rifled Shotguns
Helpful views one and all. I have learned much.
I'd like to suggest an accompaning thread regarding the subject.
As long as ballastics of projectiles remains below the speed of light Newtonian Physics apply. In the case of a porjectile"s flight behavior, Roll & Yaw along with their behaviors "period of stability" and "retrograde" are expressed in terms of gyroscopic procession. A laborous and complicated calculation of a 3rd order angular momentum question. Careful consideration needs to be important when considering what is best for achieving consistent statistical information.
Simply, with regard to a bullet's flight stability, the critical fundamental force acting against gravity is rotation of this object around its center axis. Regarding the above-mentioned, this science isn't considered for smooth barrels and projectiles. Thus, the innovation of self-rotating projectiles was born. Foils, vanes, rifles, whatever you want to hang on them. They should never be considered reliable. Nor a staple of marksmanship. They may do the job of dropping a bull. But, their consistency will always be scrutinized.
As for me I'm putting the horse before the cart and getting a rifled shotgun. A FNH Tactical SLP 9 to be exact. Just in case when I'm on a military base or in a state that only allows shotguns for hunting. I'll be ready for attacking whitetails.
Helpful views one and all. I have learned much.
I'd like to suggest an accompaning thread regarding the subject.
As long as ballastics of projectiles remains below the speed of light Newtonian Physics apply. In the case of a porjectile"s flight behavior, Roll & Yaw along with their behaviors "period of stability" and "retrograde" are expressed in terms of gyroscopic procession. A laborous and complicated calculation of a 3rd order angular momentum question. Careful consideration needs to be important when considering what is best for achieving consistent statistical information.
Simply, with regard to a bullet's flight stability, the critical fundamental force acting against gravity is rotation of this object around its center axis. Regarding the above-mentioned, this science isn't considered for smooth barrels and projectiles. Thus, the innovation of self-rotating projectiles was born. Foils, vanes, rifles, whatever you want to hang on them. They should never be considered reliable. Nor a staple of marksmanship. They may do the job of dropping a bull. But, their consistency will always be scrutinized.
As for me I'm putting the horse before the cart and getting a rifled shotgun. A FNH Tactical SLP 9 to be exact. Just in case when I'm on a military base or in a state that only allows shotguns for hunting. I'll be ready for attacking whitetails.
essentially, what is the point of purchasing a fully rifled barrel in a shotgun if you are going to voluntarily lose the accuracy gained by such by using non-sabot slugs? rifled slugs are designed to be fired (accurately) through smoothbore shotties and the same can be said of shot shells...
similarly, you will get the best results out of your fully rifled barrel with SABOT slugs and the like that have been developed for use in such guns.
Use the rounds the gun was designed for.... otherwise you are losing out on the guns capabilities.
similarly, you will get the best results out of your fully rifled barrel with SABOT slugs and the like that have been developed for use in such guns.
Use the rounds the gun was designed for.... otherwise you are losing out on the guns capabilities.
BADUNAME37
Member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,434
To answer your question, you DO GET VERY GOOD ACCURACY using both Foster and Sabot type slugs with the rifled barrel. In other words, no matter what slug you shoot out of the gun, the rifled barrel will, in most instances, pull tighter and more consistent groups than its non-rifled smoothbore counterpart.
There is a remarkable difference in accuracy and group patterns when you are using the rifled barrel, regardless of the type of slug you are using -- as the rifled barrel imparts a spin on the projectile, unlike the smooth barrel can do. Yes, you may get some spin, but the foster slug is pretty much "skidding most of the way down the smooth barrel" from my understanding after doing MUCH RESEARCH ON THIS before I spent the approximate $165 for the fully rifled barrel.
My Moss 500 12 Gauge has an 18" smoothbore barrel and now has a 24" ported (8 holes in the top just behind the front site block) barrel. I can change them out in about a minute by loosening the front knurled nut that comes attached to/with each barrel. The porting really keeps muzzle jump to a minimum so any follow-up shots can be done without really having the gun go off the sight picture much -- if not at all!
I have opted to replace the Williams OEM front and rear sights with a Red FireSight in the front and a Green FireSight in the back. Both FireSights (about 40-some dollars) fit perfectly as they are all Williams Components and the sight bases on front and back are Williams.
If smoothbore barrels are so good and accurate to begin with, with foster slugs, then why do they even bother making and selling the RIFLED BARREL?
The simple reason is because it makes a much more accurate barrel over the smoothbore with all slugs!
There is a remarkable difference in accuracy and group patterns when you are using the rifled barrel, regardless of the type of slug you are using -- as the rifled barrel imparts a spin on the projectile, unlike the smooth barrel can do. Yes, you may get some spin, but the foster slug is pretty much "skidding most of the way down the smooth barrel" from my understanding after doing MUCH RESEARCH ON THIS before I spent the approximate $165 for the fully rifled barrel.
My Moss 500 12 Gauge has an 18" smoothbore barrel and now has a 24" ported (8 holes in the top just behind the front site block) barrel. I can change them out in about a minute by loosening the front knurled nut that comes attached to/with each barrel. The porting really keeps muzzle jump to a minimum so any follow-up shots can be done without really having the gun go off the sight picture much -- if not at all!
I have opted to replace the Williams OEM front and rear sights with a Red FireSight in the front and a Green FireSight in the back. Both FireSights (about 40-some dollars) fit perfectly as they are all Williams Components and the sight bases on front and back are Williams.
If smoothbore barrels are so good and accurate to begin with, with foster slugs, then why do they even bother making and selling the RIFLED BARREL?
The simple reason is because it makes a much more accurate barrel over the smoothbore with all slugs!
Last edited:
BADUNAME37
Member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,434
Pt911
By the way, I like your signature line! 6 shots, one in the chamber, I like it!
By the way, I like your signature line! 6 shots, one in the chamber, I like it!
627PCFan
Member
All you could ever want to know on the subject.
http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/bot46.htm
http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/bot46.htm
BADUNAME37
Member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,434
I concur with this complete article.
This is the first time I ever saw this article, and I had already written about the exact same thing below, that I have found on my own and doing my own ballistics.
RSVP2RIP
Member
I had a Winchester 1300, predecessor to the FNH guns, that loved Brenneke Golden slugs. They were for rifled barrels only and were a full bore slug, for those not familiar. I never experienced any leading anymore than one would expect firing a lead bullet, of proper hardness, from any other gun. The foster slugs are pure lead I understand and that is soft, but at the velocity they are going, it would not lead much, at least not in any appreciable amount for the number of slugs one would be shooting. If leading concerns you, use a bore brush...problem solved.
Old Guard Dog
Member
Brennake KO slugs list on the box for smooth bore and rifled bore use.
OP
OP
eddism
Member
I've used the Remington 3" magnum "AccuTip" 385gr Bonded Sabot Slug. It was shot from FNH MK1 with the 24" rifled barrel. The shotgun handled this shell splendidly cycling each shot smoothly. At 100yds, 3 shots fired from bench-rest hit the baker target without need of optics. With each shot, the barrel was cleaned. No brass fouling was seen on the patches. These full-brass slugs ride through the bore in plastic wading at 1900fsp. I really like this shell. Looking forward to witnessing its knockdown power on whitetails.
- Status
