RIG Grease No Longer Available
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JohnBT
Member
I found one site recommending RIG for preserving meteorites.
In other news, if it's good enough for Chris Reeve, it's good enough for me...
Here is one of Chris Reeve's FAQs. (He makes some pretty good knives.
)
"What kind of care is needed for a damascus blade?
We generally use damascus steel made by Devin Thomas Damascus and offer two types – high carbon and stainless. The high carbon damascus is made of 1095 and nickel and it is not stainless, so the carbon layers may corrode. We supply high carbon damascus blade Sebenzas with a small container of RIG (rust inhibiting grease). As a general rule, a damascus blade should be cleaned each time the knife has been handled. Apply a small amount to the blade and immediately wipe clean using a soft cloth. Stainless damascus does not require the same attention and is not supplied with RIG."
In other news, if it's good enough for Chris Reeve, it's good enough for me...
Here is one of Chris Reeve's FAQs. (He makes some pretty good knives.
)"What kind of care is needed for a damascus blade?
We generally use damascus steel made by Devin Thomas Damascus and offer two types – high carbon and stainless. The high carbon damascus is made of 1095 and nickel and it is not stainless, so the carbon layers may corrode. We supply high carbon damascus blade Sebenzas with a small container of RIG (rust inhibiting grease). As a general rule, a damascus blade should be cleaned each time the knife has been handled. Apply a small amount to the blade and immediately wipe clean using a soft cloth. Stainless damascus does not require the same attention and is not supplied with RIG."
ZeSpectre
Member
Sorry to see RIG go, I know that's breaking a lot of hearts.
An alternative that works well for me is WeaponShield.
I use...
-Gunzilla for general cleaning
-Outer's foaming bore cleaner for copper removal
-WeaponShield oil and grease for lube
I've also heard that slide glide is great stuff though I've never used it.
An alternative that works well for me is WeaponShield.
I use...
-Gunzilla for general cleaning
-Outer's foaming bore cleaner for copper removal
-WeaponShield oil and grease for lube
I've also heard that slide glide is great stuff though I've never used it.
waterhouse
Member
I can't imagine how RIG stayed around this long. It was a couple bucks for a little tub that lasted for several years. I think I bought my last tub about 4 years ago and I've used about 1/4 of it, if that. Hard to make a ton of money at that rate, but perhaps others used way more of it than I did.
Good stuff, sorry to see it go.
Are you serious or was this post made in jest? If you are serious, please explain your logic. If it was in jest, congrats, that is one of the funnier "blame Wal-Mart" lines I've heard.
Good stuff, sorry to see it go.
Are you serious or was this post made in jest? If you are serious, please explain your logic. If it was in jest, congrats, that is one of the funnier "blame Wal-Mart" lines I've heard.
ieszu
Member
I remember using it to quench metal.. had some tools that I had hardened, still way to hot to handle, so I opened my tub of rig and dropped the pieces in.
Worked like a charm to cool down, impregnated the metal with RIG and even 5 years later they are rust free.... even with no care (They sit in my toolbox).
Worked like a charm to cool down, impregnated the metal with RIG and even 5 years later they are rust free.... even with no care (They sit in my toolbox).
sm
member
RIG is Rust Inhibiting Grease.
Here is why many of us are very sad to see this product no longer available.
We read on Internet Forums all the time about a Stainless Steel firearm has rust.
Folks are all in a panic about how to store guns for long periods of time as they head off to college, head off to war, firearms and knives are put into storage while they build a house, or other reasons.
Stainless is just that- "stain" + "less", it will rust.
Now the metallurgy on blue guns differs than stainless. To put it in simple terms, the pores are smaller and bluing is a form of "controlled forced rust".
Forced patina on carbon, tool steel knives is akin to this "controlled forced rust" as well.
Humans vary in pH levels, hence the reason some folks touch metal, be it carbon or stainless and a rusty fingerprint will appear in short order.
Leather has acids and other properties that will cause metals to rust, hence the reason guns and knives are not to be stored in holsters and sheaths.
Now we have blued guns, that have been around a long, long time.
These shotguns have busted ducks in sleet, rain and snow.
These shotguns have hundreds of thousands of rounds fired shooting clay targets.
Cops carried that issued Model 10, Model 19, Colt Detective Special ...etc. for 20 years and yes, there is holster wear, still that issued revolver has been in freezing cold, the heat and humidity of summer, plus rain, sleet, snow and sweat.
1911s and BHPs have not only been Military issue, they have been LEO issued and carried by civilians for decades.
Lever Action rifles have taken deer for 30 years and will take again this year.
We get Internet posts about stainless guns getting rust, even those guns with synthetic stocks.
Inspect and Maintain is what folks were raised to do.
Marketing came along and dumbed down society in so many areas, including firearm care.
Three products have kept blued guns free of rust for a long long time.
Cosmoline
RIG
Johnson's Paste Wax.
Petroleum Jelly is the fourth product. Often referred to as "poor man's cosmoline".
Yes the same stuff your mom put on your bottom when you were a baby and most known as Vaseline.
So folks go on and on about the newfangled guns with synthetic stocks and uber gun care products and they still get rust on stainless guns.
Parents, aunts, uncles, grandparents, and the geezers with blued guns, do not have rust on their guns.
Oh they might have some holster and handling wear marks. Still if you looked at their Model 60, 64, 66, Steel Combat Commander, - you would see holster and wear marks too.
Inspect and Maintain is the key.
Common sense assists as well.
Remove metal from wood, and apply a thin, and I mean it does not take much, RIG under where the stocks fit onto metal.
How many posts have we seen with folks removing stocks and finding rust on that stainless gun?
Stock bolt on a shotgun?
Folks prepped the gun, then inspected and maintained.
Cops would come in from a shift and remove the Model 10 from leather holster, open cylinder and remove ctgs.
Then use a RIG Rag to wipe down gun, as the inspected and maintained.
If they grabbed the shotgun, on a Prowler call, it too was wiped down before it was placed back into the rack of the squad car.
Now I am not the only one that has had some bad weather this year.
Still we had guns prepped, inspected, maintained and 'stored" for as long as 1 year, that were pulled out of storage and put to use during tornadoes, and floods.
No rust on these blued guns.
One old Model 10, was set back for a year, and there was no rust, and it was carried in a leather holster with rain, wind, and everything else going on.
It has some bluing missing, it has wear marks, as this gun was carried for long time, and shot a lot!
It has been taken down and prepped and looks fine, and ready for the next emergency. Yes, the ctgs all went bang when fired as well.
Now we watched some stainless guns rust right before our eyes. It did not matter what lube of the week had been used, they got rusty.
Later, two guns would not fire, and one was a synthetic stocked gun.
These folks bought into the marketing hype and were not raised with inspect and maintain.
Nor were they raised with Investigate and Verify.
My handy home shotgun was prepped with Johnson's paste wax.
This is what I use on it.
The hinge pin has STOS on it.
There are other fine waxes such as Johnson's that protect metal and wood, many woodworkers use these, and these protect shop tools, just like Johnson's.
Still Johnson's is most known to folks and can still be bought at the grocery store.
Just me, I think I am going to snag some more yellow cans of Johnson's.
Nobody is whom they used to be anymore.
Acquisition and Mergers and whatever else going on, and products are being alleviated, such as RIG.
Browning had one of the best gun oils forever in that tin can, and for a little bit afterwards in the black plastic one.
Winchester had a good one too, in the tin can with red and yellow label.
Hoppe's Lubricating oil was in a tin can back then too.
Somehow these old blued guns run, in all sorts of weather and still do.
Some of us can truly say we have dropped more shells/ctgs than some have ever shot.
We see shotguns with no wear marks, with all sorts of stuff attached and hanging off them, and they get cleaned a lot, with whatever the latest gun lube of the week is.
"How does it shoot?" we ask.
"Don't know, but this new wonder lube is great, it does this, that and the other ...".
How do they know? They don't, the gun is never shot or used to find out.
I do know of shotguns , blued, with hundreds of thousands of rounds fired through them, and they still run, and look fine.
RIG is one product, as are Johnson's, and STOS.
Here is why many of us are very sad to see this product no longer available.
We read on Internet Forums all the time about a Stainless Steel firearm has rust.
Folks are all in a panic about how to store guns for long periods of time as they head off to college, head off to war, firearms and knives are put into storage while they build a house, or other reasons.
Stainless is just that- "stain" + "less", it will rust.
Now the metallurgy on blue guns differs than stainless. To put it in simple terms, the pores are smaller and bluing is a form of "controlled forced rust".
Forced patina on carbon, tool steel knives is akin to this "controlled forced rust" as well.
Humans vary in pH levels, hence the reason some folks touch metal, be it carbon or stainless and a rusty fingerprint will appear in short order.
Leather has acids and other properties that will cause metals to rust, hence the reason guns and knives are not to be stored in holsters and sheaths.
Now we have blued guns, that have been around a long, long time.
These shotguns have busted ducks in sleet, rain and snow.
These shotguns have hundreds of thousands of rounds fired shooting clay targets.
Cops carried that issued Model 10, Model 19, Colt Detective Special ...etc. for 20 years and yes, there is holster wear, still that issued revolver has been in freezing cold, the heat and humidity of summer, plus rain, sleet, snow and sweat.
1911s and BHPs have not only been Military issue, they have been LEO issued and carried by civilians for decades.
Lever Action rifles have taken deer for 30 years and will take again this year.
We get Internet posts about stainless guns getting rust, even those guns with synthetic stocks.
Inspect and Maintain is what folks were raised to do.
Marketing came along and dumbed down society in so many areas, including firearm care.
Three products have kept blued guns free of rust for a long long time.
Cosmoline
RIG
Johnson's Paste Wax.
Petroleum Jelly is the fourth product. Often referred to as "poor man's cosmoline".
Yes the same stuff your mom put on your bottom when you were a baby and most known as Vaseline.
So folks go on and on about the newfangled guns with synthetic stocks and uber gun care products and they still get rust on stainless guns.
Parents, aunts, uncles, grandparents, and the geezers with blued guns, do not have rust on their guns.
Oh they might have some holster and handling wear marks. Still if you looked at their Model 60, 64, 66, Steel Combat Commander, - you would see holster and wear marks too.
Inspect and Maintain is the key.
Common sense assists as well.
Remove metal from wood, and apply a thin, and I mean it does not take much, RIG under where the stocks fit onto metal.
How many posts have we seen with folks removing stocks and finding rust on that stainless gun?
Stock bolt on a shotgun?
Folks prepped the gun, then inspected and maintained.
Cops would come in from a shift and remove the Model 10 from leather holster, open cylinder and remove ctgs.
Then use a RIG Rag to wipe down gun, as the inspected and maintained.
If they grabbed the shotgun, on a Prowler call, it too was wiped down before it was placed back into the rack of the squad car.
Now I am not the only one that has had some bad weather this year.
Still we had guns prepped, inspected, maintained and 'stored" for as long as 1 year, that were pulled out of storage and put to use during tornadoes, and floods.
No rust on these blued guns.
One old Model 10, was set back for a year, and there was no rust, and it was carried in a leather holster with rain, wind, and everything else going on.
It has some bluing missing, it has wear marks, as this gun was carried for long time, and shot a lot!
It has been taken down and prepped and looks fine, and ready for the next emergency. Yes, the ctgs all went bang when fired as well.
Now we watched some stainless guns rust right before our eyes. It did not matter what lube of the week had been used, they got rusty.
Later, two guns would not fire, and one was a synthetic stocked gun.
These folks bought into the marketing hype and were not raised with inspect and maintain.
Nor were they raised with Investigate and Verify.
My handy home shotgun was prepped with Johnson's paste wax.
This is what I use on it.
The hinge pin has STOS on it.
There are other fine waxes such as Johnson's that protect metal and wood, many woodworkers use these, and these protect shop tools, just like Johnson's.
Still Johnson's is most known to folks and can still be bought at the grocery store.
Just me, I think I am going to snag some more yellow cans of Johnson's.
Nobody is whom they used to be anymore.
Acquisition and Mergers and whatever else going on, and products are being alleviated, such as RIG.
Browning had one of the best gun oils forever in that tin can, and for a little bit afterwards in the black plastic one.
Winchester had a good one too, in the tin can with red and yellow label.
Hoppe's Lubricating oil was in a tin can back then too.
Somehow these old blued guns run, in all sorts of weather and still do.
Some of us can truly say we have dropped more shells/ctgs than some have ever shot.
We see shotguns with no wear marks, with all sorts of stuff attached and hanging off them, and they get cleaned a lot, with whatever the latest gun lube of the week is.
"How does it shoot?" we ask.
"Don't know, but this new wonder lube is great, it does this, that and the other ...".
How do they know? They don't, the gun is never shot or used to find out.
I do know of shotguns , blued, with hundreds of thousands of rounds fired through them, and they still run, and look fine.
RIG is one product, as are Johnson's, and STOS.
ZeSpectre
Member
That would be me. Watch out for the redheads, a lot of us have "rusting" body chemistry of which I'm a pretty strong example.
JohnBT
Member
Dang, talk about service, I just got an email from www.shotgunsportsmagazine.com
They've already shipped my order.
They've already shipped my order.
41magsnub
Member
Me too, metal runs in fear of my touch. I'm always really careful of wiping down guns after I use them. I have a stainless pistol with my fingerprint embedded in it permanently. You should see my keys that ride in my pocket all day. The steel ones rust, the brass ones look 100 years old.
ZeSpectre
Member
Yup, that's me all over!
ranger335v
Member
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2006
- Messages
- 3,797
I have a good supply of RIG, thank the Lord, but there is at least one easily availble substitute; outboard "hi-pressure" grease. It has excellant lub and rust protection qualities and it's easy to get from any marine dealer. Comes in what looks like a large toothpaste tube.
Jolly Rogers
Member
Is it sort of amber/clear like RIG?
Speaking of RIG I just took a 1958 Marlin #39 that had some dry splotchy blueing on the barrel and some minor rust blemishes on the receiver and rubbed it down with RIG. Took 45 years off the appearance. Barrel and receiver went translucent with no blotchiness. You know how bluing was in the old days. Brought it right back to that look.
Shoulda bought that rifle:banghead:
Joe
ZeSpectre
Member
I have a case of RIG
.
.
.
.
.
and the bidding will now begin!
(just kidding)
.
.
.
.
.
and the bidding will now begin!
(just kidding)
Nice tip...I wasn't aware of this.
For the record, I've had one Rig Rag that sits on top of my safe for wiping down guns and it's been there for at least 4 years. I don't expect any problems with it, but just in case I've got a few backups...
Ed
JohnBT
Member
I take a Rig Rag to the range in a baggie to wipe the sweat and fingerprints off the guns - the nice blue ones anyway. As you can imagine, it gets dirty in a hurry. I also keep a clean one on top of the safe.
John
John
JohnBT
Member
There are a few hours left on this one on ebay - a big old 15 ounce can. Already $37.85 including shipping.
doubleh
Member
No biggie. There are a lot of greases and oils out there made with modern technology. And they are made to stand up to a lot more severe conditions than any encountered in firearms lubrication.
JohnBT
Member
"No biggie."
Says you. We say it is a biggie. So there.
Says you. We say it is a biggie. So there.
Stevie-Ray
Member
It's all I ever used on my trusty .22 when I was a kid. And here it is 40 years later and I'm still using that gun and it's finish is still rather good.
But, of course now it gets RIG. For a while, at least.doubleh
Member
JohnBT, you know what they say about opinions. So there. LOL
JohnBT
Member
Yep, they're like bellybuttons, everybody has one except the cloned people. Or something like that.
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