BrainOnSigs
Member
This is not a thread to discuss the merits of lapping. This info is for after you do the research and have made a decision to lap. It's free advice so take as such.......
I've had a few e-mails asking me for info on how to lap scope rings....so I thought I would share this. This was what I was taught by a very experienced shooter many years ago. To assure alignment...which in turn protects your scope.....I always lap my rings. Again.....not going to argue about the benefits (or non-benefits) of lapping....just the steps on how to do it.
Even though this is geared towards my stuff (Cooper rifles, Leupold VX-III scopes, Leupold rings)....much of the info works for different brands of equipment.
If you buy a rifle and it comes with Leupold bases and you are using Leupold rings....here is some more free advice.
Spend the $7-$10 and buy a Leupold ring wrench.
Before starting any of this, I make sure that the bases are secure, and will torque them.
I suggest installing the rear bottom ring first. I apply some Break-Free to the base and ring bottom, where they engage, and wipe off excess with a rag. I then position the rear bottom ring so that it is centered and aligned (as best I can). Tighten the two screws, being careful to keep the bottom ring aligned. Take your time. And, tighten it. I don't use a torque wrench for this. I make them tight. You don't want the rear ring to budge. I know that it is designed for windage adjustment, but it's best to do that via the scope. (I wish that there were Leupold Dual Dovetail bases available for Cooper Arms rifles).
Now, do the same with the front bottom ring, in terms of applying Break-Free to both ring and base. The ring will be perpendicular. The Leupold ring wrench has an opening that will fit the ring. Actually, it is designed to handle both one-inch and 30mm rings. You need to put the rifle in a rest (or vice...but I haven't ever had to resort to this) so that it will not move.
Back to the front ring. I use the wrench to turn the front ring 90 degrees. It is tight. And, you may need to do a bit of minor back-and-forth to get the front ring aligned. To check alignment, I use the lapping kit's 30mm steel rod (my scopes are all 30mm). I lay it on each of the ring bottoms, and move it right up to the other ring bottom. You may find that the rear ring bottom may need adjustment after you get the front one aligned. Take your time with this step, because the better you have them aligned, the better you'll be able to lap the ring bottoms.
The ring lapping procedure.
You don't need much lapping compound. I use a Q-tip to get a little bit, place it on a folded paper towel, then put a couple drops of Break-Free on it. I use the same Q-tip to apply the mixture to the surface of the bottom rings that engage the scope tube. A very thin layer is all that is needed. I then attach the handle to the lapping rod. Placing the lapping tool on the rings, I apply back-and-forth motions, making sure that the rings are always being engaged by the tool. I also rotate the tool as I am doing this. After 5 or 10 minutes, I use a rag to wipe off the engagement surface of the rings, to see the lapping effect, which is a smoothing. The black will become smooth and silver. It does not all need to be silver. Ideally, the wear (lapping effect) will be uniform. If it's not completely uniform, it's not a problem. You're still aligning the rings.
I sometimes apply more lapping compound, and repeat the process, until I see the effect I desire. At no point during this procedure should you adjust or otherwise disturb the alignment of either ring. Doing so will negate any lapping done up to that point.
Use MPro-7 (or other cleaner) to remove the lapping compound, which turns grey. I take the time to make sure that all is removed, and then
I dry the surfaces. Before mounting the scope, I apply a thin layer of Break-Free to the engagement surfaces, then wipe off excess with a rag.
You sould be good to go. If you ever remove your scope it will have zero marks on it. As long as you don't move the lower rings you can always put
a scope back on and it will be automatically aligned.
Some visuals: http://www.centerfirecentral.com/lapping.html
Again....the advice is free.....so take it if it helps.....ignore it if it doesn't.
I've had a few e-mails asking me for info on how to lap scope rings....so I thought I would share this. This was what I was taught by a very experienced shooter many years ago. To assure alignment...which in turn protects your scope.....I always lap my rings. Again.....not going to argue about the benefits (or non-benefits) of lapping....just the steps on how to do it.
Even though this is geared towards my stuff (Cooper rifles, Leupold VX-III scopes, Leupold rings)....much of the info works for different brands of equipment.
If you buy a rifle and it comes with Leupold bases and you are using Leupold rings....here is some more free advice.
Spend the $7-$10 and buy a Leupold ring wrench.
Before starting any of this, I make sure that the bases are secure, and will torque them.
I suggest installing the rear bottom ring first. I apply some Break-Free to the base and ring bottom, where they engage, and wipe off excess with a rag. I then position the rear bottom ring so that it is centered and aligned (as best I can). Tighten the two screws, being careful to keep the bottom ring aligned. Take your time. And, tighten it. I don't use a torque wrench for this. I make them tight. You don't want the rear ring to budge. I know that it is designed for windage adjustment, but it's best to do that via the scope. (I wish that there were Leupold Dual Dovetail bases available for Cooper Arms rifles).
Now, do the same with the front bottom ring, in terms of applying Break-Free to both ring and base. The ring will be perpendicular. The Leupold ring wrench has an opening that will fit the ring. Actually, it is designed to handle both one-inch and 30mm rings. You need to put the rifle in a rest (or vice...but I haven't ever had to resort to this) so that it will not move.
Back to the front ring. I use the wrench to turn the front ring 90 degrees. It is tight. And, you may need to do a bit of minor back-and-forth to get the front ring aligned. To check alignment, I use the lapping kit's 30mm steel rod (my scopes are all 30mm). I lay it on each of the ring bottoms, and move it right up to the other ring bottom. You may find that the rear ring bottom may need adjustment after you get the front one aligned. Take your time with this step, because the better you have them aligned, the better you'll be able to lap the ring bottoms.
The ring lapping procedure.
You don't need much lapping compound. I use a Q-tip to get a little bit, place it on a folded paper towel, then put a couple drops of Break-Free on it. I use the same Q-tip to apply the mixture to the surface of the bottom rings that engage the scope tube. A very thin layer is all that is needed. I then attach the handle to the lapping rod. Placing the lapping tool on the rings, I apply back-and-forth motions, making sure that the rings are always being engaged by the tool. I also rotate the tool as I am doing this. After 5 or 10 minutes, I use a rag to wipe off the engagement surface of the rings, to see the lapping effect, which is a smoothing. The black will become smooth and silver. It does not all need to be silver. Ideally, the wear (lapping effect) will be uniform. If it's not completely uniform, it's not a problem. You're still aligning the rings.
I sometimes apply more lapping compound, and repeat the process, until I see the effect I desire. At no point during this procedure should you adjust or otherwise disturb the alignment of either ring. Doing so will negate any lapping done up to that point.
Use MPro-7 (or other cleaner) to remove the lapping compound, which turns grey. I take the time to make sure that all is removed, and then
I dry the surfaces. Before mounting the scope, I apply a thin layer of Break-Free to the engagement surfaces, then wipe off excess with a rag.
You sould be good to go. If you ever remove your scope it will have zero marks on it. As long as you don't move the lower rings you can always put
a scope back on and it will be automatically aligned.
Some visuals: http://www.centerfirecentral.com/lapping.html
Again....the advice is free.....so take it if it helps.....ignore it if it doesn't.
