Roll Pins...Arrrrrhhhh!!!!

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carolinaman

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Hi there all,

I had to replace the extractor in my Browning High Power '76C classic yesterday.

I ordered two new roll pins, 1 for the extractor and one for the sear lever, but wound up using the old ones because I could not get the new ones to fit after trying to tap them in with my roll pin punches.

Is there a little secret? The new ones seem slightly bigger and the sear lever pin was so tight that the sear lever would not "float" like it is supposed to.

It seems simple, but as with anything, the simple things generally "bugger up" first for me.

Chris
 
Sometimes it helps to file a slight bevel on the starting end, and/or use a set of cushion jawed pliers to gently squeeze the end. As to the sear bar being tight, did you try it with the pin in or outside the slide? Once the pin is in, it's diameter is reduced slightly, and it grips the walls of the pin hole.
 
I usually slightly pinch the end I'm going to start in the hole with a pliers...just enough to close the gap on that end. I give it a light tap with the hammer to seat it, then drive it in with the role-pin punch.
Hope this helps.
 
I find that the roll pin punch will get you into a lot of trouble when installing pins. They tend to work into the pin and spread it open. I usually get them started with a flat brass punch and when it's 90% in, drive it home with the roll pin punch. LIGHTLY. If you go too hard then the exposed end will mushroom.

Oh, apply some moly grease to the pin and it will go in easier. Has to be moly grease, or some sort of "EP" (extreme pressure) grease. Do not use anti-seize because most are abrasive and will work against you.
 
scott.cr said:
I find that the roll pin punch will get you into a lot of trouble when installing pins. They tend to work into the pin and spread it open. I usually get them started with a flat brass punch and when it's 90% in, drive it home with the roll pin punch. LIGHTLY. If you go too hard then the exposed end will mushroom.

Oh, apply some moly grease to the pin and it will go in easier. Has to be moly grease, or some sort of "EP" (extreme pressure) grease. Do not use anti-seize because most are abrasive and will work against you.

Excellent advice, you must be an aircraft mechanic too. :)
 
scott.cr is right.
Roll pin punches are great for removing roll pins and they suck for trying to put them back in.
A roll pin starter punch works better for installation.
Starter punches are cup tipped and hold the roll pin to the hole without mushrooming the other side when you start tapping it home.
Once you get the pin started then you can use a roll pin punch to seat it but I always use a slightly larger standard pin punch because the roll pin punch can still cause the back edge of the roll pin to mushroom even with the roll pin well started.

Bevelling the lead edge is always a good idea as is applying a bit of light grease to the roll pin.
The grease will also help to hold the roll pin in place in the starter punch.
 
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