barnbwt
member
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2011
- Messages
- 7,340
Today I did something I try to avoid when possible: impulse buy. But, when I was presented with something I hadn't run across in person before --a gin-ewe-ine Remington rolling block-- and in a practical smokeless bottleneck chambering --7mm Mauser-- I just couldn't resist. Rolling blocks are just one of those iconic staples, so I'll always have room for one in the collection. I'm told most of the 7mm models went to Mexico, presumably to battle Zapatas/etc. at the turn of the century.
The Good:
-Everything works as best I can tell; this is the 1902 model with the rotary extractor
-Stock is in decent condition, very dented but the finish looks very good to compensate (probably refinished)
-No rust or pitting anywhere, just a cosmoline-like substance in all the nooks and crannies that looks like rust (barrel and hammer stamps/knurling are very faint, suggesting either lots of wear or some refinish filing; patent stamps are strong, though)
-Extremely strong rifling, and a smooth, consistently dark bore. All rounds went through the same hole at 10yrds without trying in the pistol range behind the shop I test fired it in
-Test fire showed expected oversized neck in the chamber, but zero noticeable setback of the shoulder. Primers were beaten to hell, but none ruptured.
-Trigger is somehow smooth and in the 4lb range, which seems quite odd compared to reports I've read of 20lb triggers. Hammer is very stiff to cock as you'd expect
The Bad, and Ugly:
-Some wussy dingus glued on one of those rubber butt pads known for hardening and cracking in an ugly manner. I think he at least did not cut the stock to do so and just replaced the steel plate.
-The sling swivel on the butt has been removed and the stock repaired (looks like an armory-style repair, but is likely done by the same dingus)
-Self-same dingus may have ground down the sight base (it's a straight ramp instead of a fancy arc or stair-step profile)
-Self-same dingus removed forward sling swivel and replaced it with an ugly hex-bolt
-The buttstock is a little loose on the receiver, so I really need to fix that before recoil causes cracking (there's also a little splinter of the forearm missing by the barrel-band leaf spring on the right side)
I paid a little more than lowest market value, but for something cool & uncommon to be unexpectedly brought to my attention, I'm willing to pay a little bit of a "finder's fee" to the LGS. The sporterization, while annoying to someone with historical sensibilities, isn't really noticeable or obnoxious, with the obvious exception of the played-out buttstock which is an easy fix. If the same bubba who did the chopping also did the trigger work, all is forgiven (it's seriously as light a trigger as my K31; I just tested both )
What's the proper technique for cocking/loading these guns? There's not as much instruction on Youtube as I'd have expected. For the test firing, I pulled the hammer with my thumb and the block with my index finger, inserted a shell held between my middle and third fingers with my thumb, before closing the block with my thumb as I brought my hand down to the trigger. Not as slick as a K31, but not as awkward as I'd expected, either.
TCB
The Good:
-Everything works as best I can tell; this is the 1902 model with the rotary extractor
-Stock is in decent condition, very dented but the finish looks very good to compensate (probably refinished)
-No rust or pitting anywhere, just a cosmoline-like substance in all the nooks and crannies that looks like rust (barrel and hammer stamps/knurling are very faint, suggesting either lots of wear or some refinish filing; patent stamps are strong, though)
-Extremely strong rifling, and a smooth, consistently dark bore. All rounds went through the same hole at 10yrds without trying in the pistol range behind the shop I test fired it in
-Test fire showed expected oversized neck in the chamber, but zero noticeable setback of the shoulder. Primers were beaten to hell, but none ruptured.
-Trigger is somehow smooth and in the 4lb range, which seems quite odd compared to reports I've read of 20lb triggers. Hammer is very stiff to cock as you'd expect
The Bad, and Ugly:
-Some wussy dingus glued on one of those rubber butt pads known for hardening and cracking in an ugly manner. I think he at least did not cut the stock to do so and just replaced the steel plate.
-The sling swivel on the butt has been removed and the stock repaired (looks like an armory-style repair, but is likely done by the same dingus)
-Self-same dingus may have ground down the sight base (it's a straight ramp instead of a fancy arc or stair-step profile)
-Self-same dingus removed forward sling swivel and replaced it with an ugly hex-bolt
-The buttstock is a little loose on the receiver, so I really need to fix that before recoil causes cracking (there's also a little splinter of the forearm missing by the barrel-band leaf spring on the right side)
I paid a little more than lowest market value, but for something cool & uncommon to be unexpectedly brought to my attention, I'm willing to pay a little bit of a "finder's fee" to the LGS. The sporterization, while annoying to someone with historical sensibilities, isn't really noticeable or obnoxious, with the obvious exception of the played-out buttstock which is an easy fix. If the same bubba who did the chopping also did the trigger work, all is forgiven (it's seriously as light a trigger as my K31; I just tested both )
What's the proper technique for cocking/loading these guns? There's not as much instruction on Youtube as I'd have expected. For the test firing, I pulled the hammer with my thumb and the block with my index finger, inserted a shell held between my middle and third fingers with my thumb, before closing the block with my thumb as I brought my hand down to the trigger. Not as slick as a K31, but not as awkward as I'd expected, either.
TCB