Casting round ball for a muzzleloader...,
First you need nearly pure lead, as lead alloys such as wheel weights tend to shrink less when cooled, so they are a tad larger. NOT a problem as they shoot fine, but if you already have a good powder/patch/ball load, and you switch to wheel weights, you may find the patch/ball combo is too tight to load. Not to worry, just go to a thinner patch but check as if the patch is too thin and gets cut, your accuracy will go out the window.
Back to casting...,
I melt my lead in an iron pot over an outdoor fire. When the lead is melted I toss in a 1" cube of beeswax, and it melts and burns, and then skim off the blue-black crud on the top of the lead (which is mostly lead oxide). Then I put the ladle in the lead to heat up, or it will get a deposit of lead on it and not pour straight. IF the ladle picks up lead, then let it sit for a minute in the melted lead, and it will come up to temp and stay clean and pour nice.
If I don't pre-heat the mold, the first few projectiles will not be correct, probably only a half-sphere. I count to ten after pouring, then knock it out, and repeat. This heats up the mold. (Normally I pre-heat the mold by setting the mold portion in the coals for about 1 minute).
When the mold is getting close to proper temp, the ball comes out as a sphere, but it will probably be wrinkled. That means the mold is almost correct temp. Keep pouring and tapping out the projectiles, and the mold will heat further, then it will give you nice, shiny, smooth bullets. WATCH the sprue (the bit where the lead is poured into the mold) and be sure you don't get an air pocket.
IF you get bullets that appear "frosted" instead of shiny, the mold and lead were too hot. Not a problem really.
As for cooling the round ball, you have a choice. I like mine to air cool. The biggest thing I go up against is white-tail and they aren't too big in my neck of the woods. So a nice, soft bullet works great! I know some who drop their ball into water for a faster cool so get a harder bullet (I don't know if it's that much of an improvement to make a dif), BUT if you do that you can't recast those bullets while working the rest of the melted lead. ANY water that hits that melted lead will turn to steam and pop, causing melted to lead to fly everywhere, while you're standing next to it.
IF you want or need a harder bullet, then a better idea (imho) is to use an alloy (such as the wheel weights I mentioned above), and change the thickness of your patch.., it's safer.
LD