Ruger GP100 357 handloads
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Go to the handloading threads for more information.
I feel the GP100 is the equivalent of N frame Smiths in terms of strength. Handle anything the loading manuals will give you......use a good manual. Don't rely on online advice for actual loads.
I feel the GP100 is the equivalent of N frame Smiths in terms of strength. Handle anything the loading manuals will give you......use a good manual. Don't rely on online advice for actual loads.
Catpop
Member
I have a new 4" GP100 ss I have not even fired yet. I am holding off trying to finish up a loading quest for my 6" blackhawk. That quest looks like 15.0 grains 4227 under a 158 grain Kieth style LSWC 18br Missouri but still working on it. Remember always work your own loads up!
The GP100 will be my next quest.
Good reloading, Catpop
The GP100 will be my next quest.
Good reloading, Catpop
41 Mag
Member
I have had a GP-100 since they hit the shelves, and have shot about every commercial jacketed weight bullet that I handloaded, or top brand factory ammo.
In all the years I settled on a couple of jacketed bullets I would NEVER be without, the 125 and 158gr Remington SJHP's. Either of these will usually do anything I want or need to get done, and they won't break the bank when you find them. I know they aren't one of the newer so called "premium self defense" bullets but, they both have a long proven track record, especially the 125.
That said, if you want to have the plinking loads pick a good manufacturer like Missouri Cast and go with one of their medium weight SWC's or the DEWC type and load them over a dash of Bullseye, AA-2, W-231, Universal, or Unique.
For the SD loads, I would personally look no further than the 125gr weight jacketed HP's, and load them over something like AA #5 or 7. This will give you plenty of umph for a inside the house shot on a BG, but these powders do not exhibit the big bright muzzle flash of some of the more popular powders. It is more of a dull orange that isn't much of an issue at all in complete darkness.
IMO, if your going to go with your own SD load, no matter how accurate it is on the range, the muzzle flash needs to be considered. Take one of your factory loads out in pitch darkness and fire it into a known dirt backstop and observe the flash around the cylinder gap and muzzle. That isn't something you want or need inside a darkened house.
I am now casting my own for both of my GP's and find they like the 148gr DEWC's as well as anything else I have poured in or around the 150-170gr range. The powders I use are Unique, Bullseye, and AA#5, 7 or 9 depending on the intended use or velocity wanted.
tightgroup tiger
Member
41mags advise is excellent with the AA7 and AA9 and 125gr bullets for self defense. BE-86 should work well for this also, it is around the same heat range as Unique, good powder fill, flash suppressant, and clean with plated bullets. I haven't been able to find AA7or 9 for a really long time now.
I have a GP100 4" blued that I have fell in love with, especially in double action. It's my main range gun now.
I use mostly plated bullets these days since I'm reduced to shooting at an indoor range. Xtreme and Berry's work really well and won't break the bank.
Berry's are more economical in my opinion.
For target I use 158gr Xtreme SWC plated with 7.3 gr of Power Pistol because I have about 7lbs of it and need to use it. Don't use it at night, it's flash is really obnoxious and blinding.
I have had really good luck with Power Pistol with 7.3, 7.6, and 8gr being my max and Xtreme SWC. no crimp.
Power Pistol 8.3 gr 158gr berry's flat nose, very accurate but getting into heavier recoil. 8.6 is max in my literature. 10 gr is my max for 125gr jhp.
BE-86 is 7.3 gr with 158 gr Xtreme SWC. excellent accuracy, no crimp
excellent upper midrange load, flash suppressant, and clean with plated bullets. Haven't had a lot of time to test other loads.
For hunting I use 14.9 gr of 2400 with JHP. 158gr XTPs, trim my cases, heavy crimp, and wsp primers. my max load.
I don't have a good self defense load for .357mag, I use a 9mm shield for that.
Start haunting the powder mfgs web site for their load data before you start loading, they will give you a good idea of what recipes are available.
I have a GP100 4" blued that I have fell in love with, especially in double action. It's my main range gun now.
I use mostly plated bullets these days since I'm reduced to shooting at an indoor range. Xtreme and Berry's work really well and won't break the bank.
Berry's are more economical in my opinion.
For target I use 158gr Xtreme SWC plated with 7.3 gr of Power Pistol because I have about 7lbs of it and need to use it. Don't use it at night, it's flash is really obnoxious and blinding.
I have had really good luck with Power Pistol with 7.3, 7.6, and 8gr being my max and Xtreme SWC. no crimp.
Power Pistol 8.3 gr 158gr berry's flat nose, very accurate but getting into heavier recoil. 8.6 is max in my literature. 10 gr is my max for 125gr jhp.
BE-86 is 7.3 gr with 158 gr Xtreme SWC. excellent accuracy, no crimp
excellent upper midrange load, flash suppressant, and clean with plated bullets. Haven't had a lot of time to test other loads.
For hunting I use 14.9 gr of 2400 with JHP. 158gr XTPs, trim my cases, heavy crimp, and wsp primers. my max load.
I don't have a good self defense load for .357mag, I use a 9mm shield for that.
Start haunting the powder mfgs web site for their load data before you start loading, they will give you a good idea of what recipes are available.
moxie
Member
Try light loaded cast 125 LRN or 148 LWC from Missouri Bullet for general plinking and target work. You save a lot of $$ using cast bullets. For SD use 125 or 158 Speer Gold Dots, or similar premium hollow points, and fairly heavy loads. You could also just load those same bullets as warm .38 Special loads and be well armed with your GP-100. Any good reloading manual will give you the details as to powder choices and weights. I like Speer and Lyman.
For our two GP100s, I load essentially two types of ammunition: 38 Special and .357 Magnum.
Within the 38 Special realm I load my own cast bullets and my two favored molds are a 140 and 150 grain Lee. Both are plain base because 38 Special doesn't require a gas check at its velocities. My 38 Specials are by design lower pressure paper punchers fit to shoot in any 38 Special frame. Currently I favor Ramshot True Blue and Alliant Bullseye powders
.357 Magnum loads are true magnum loads. I generally load 125 or 158 grain jacketed and they are near max using Hodgdon H110 for Winchester 296. For somewhat lesser magnum loads with gas check 158 grain cast I favor Alliant 2400. My 158 grain GC bullets are Lyman 358156 cast from their #2 alloy sized to our bores; I have no leading.
In both 38 Special and 357 Magnum I've lately been loading plated bullets of various weights. So far, results have been good. You do need to observe max velocity recommendations for plated with magnum level charges. Accuracy has been on a par with my cast bullets and JHPs and all have been quite good.
For specific load recommendations with the powders I've chosen, and all others in fact, consult a loading manual or the powder maker's recommendation.
Within the 38 Special realm I load my own cast bullets and my two favored molds are a 140 and 150 grain Lee. Both are plain base because 38 Special doesn't require a gas check at its velocities. My 38 Specials are by design lower pressure paper punchers fit to shoot in any 38 Special frame. Currently I favor Ramshot True Blue and Alliant Bullseye powders
.357 Magnum loads are true magnum loads. I generally load 125 or 158 grain jacketed and they are near max using Hodgdon H110 for Winchester 296. For somewhat lesser magnum loads with gas check 158 grain cast I favor Alliant 2400. My 158 grain GC bullets are Lyman 358156 cast from their #2 alloy sized to our bores; I have no leading.
In both 38 Special and 357 Magnum I've lately been loading plated bullets of various weights. So far, results have been good. You do need to observe max velocity recommendations for plated with magnum level charges. Accuracy has been on a par with my cast bullets and JHPs and all have been quite good.
For specific load recommendations with the powders I've chosen, and all others in fact, consult a loading manual or the powder maker's recommendation.
BCRider
Member
Nothing to add other than check with the loading manuals and be sure to work up to the full power magnum loads while checking for pressure signs as you go.
As mentioned your Ruger is one tough gun. But you want to be sure you don't flow your primers or split your brass as it can lock up the gun in extreme cases.
For this reason I'd also want to use new or known one use only brass for any defensive loads. Older and well used brass tends to be more prone to splitting.
For plinking just about anything will work. If you have the option I'd suggest you buy and load up nothing but .357 brass simply to avoid the crud ring that will form from shooting the shorter .38Spl casings. It just cuts down on cleaning for you. And nothing says that you can't load milder .38Spl loads in the magnum brass. You'll find that you just get slightly reduced velocity due to the added case volume giving a lower peak pressure. So mid power .38Spl loads in .357Mag brass will generate muzzle velocities consistent more with starting loads.
For plinking with .38Spl like load power you have lots of options for bullets. Just get something that is cheap and readily available. And yes, I know that isn't easy in today's situation. So one needs to be flexible. A good start to this flexibility is to write down a little list of all the possible pistol powders used for both .38Spl and .357Mag and keep it in your wallet. That way if you run across an option you can easily check to see if it's worth buying.
Other than that be safe and attentive when reloading. If in ANY doubt don't be too proud to set aside a few questionable rounds and use a bullet puller to disassemble them. Better safe than a double charge or squib.
Also keep in mind that fast full house Magnums will print lower on a target than the slower and lighter recoiling softer Special like loads. So if changing from one to the other take into account what the bullet weight and velocity will do to the POA.
Something to consider for home defense is the noise and flash that you'll get with any full power Magnum loads. But that's your choice and likely a better topic for another thread.
As mentioned your Ruger is one tough gun. But you want to be sure you don't flow your primers or split your brass as it can lock up the gun in extreme cases.
For this reason I'd also want to use new or known one use only brass for any defensive loads. Older and well used brass tends to be more prone to splitting.
For plinking just about anything will work. If you have the option I'd suggest you buy and load up nothing but .357 brass simply to avoid the crud ring that will form from shooting the shorter .38Spl casings. It just cuts down on cleaning for you. And nothing says that you can't load milder .38Spl loads in the magnum brass. You'll find that you just get slightly reduced velocity due to the added case volume giving a lower peak pressure. So mid power .38Spl loads in .357Mag brass will generate muzzle velocities consistent more with starting loads.
For plinking with .38Spl like load power you have lots of options for bullets. Just get something that is cheap and readily available. And yes, I know that isn't easy in today's situation. So one needs to be flexible. A good start to this flexibility is to write down a little list of all the possible pistol powders used for both .38Spl and .357Mag and keep it in your wallet. That way if you run across an option you can easily check to see if it's worth buying.
Other than that be safe and attentive when reloading. If in ANY doubt don't be too proud to set aside a few questionable rounds and use a bullet puller to disassemble them. Better safe than a double charge or squib.
Also keep in mind that fast full house Magnums will print lower on a target than the slower and lighter recoiling softer Special like loads. So if changing from one to the other take into account what the bullet weight and velocity will do to the POA.
Something to consider for home defense is the noise and flash that you'll get with any full power Magnum loads. But that's your choice and likely a better topic for another thread.
funklord12
Member
- Joined
- Jul 29, 2011
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- 134
My 38 Special reloads are 148gr DEWC or 158gr LSWC with Bullseye or Titegroup. Currently runs me approximately $4.75 for a box of 50 rounds.
For 357 Magnum I use 158gr LSWC over 2400 ($7/box) or a jacketed bullet over W296/H100 ($13.75/box).
For 357 Magnum I use 158gr LSWC over 2400 ($7/box) or a jacketed bullet over W296/H100 ($13.75/box).
gotboostvr
Member
I like a 158gr SWC over a light charge of RedDot in 38 brass, or the same bullet over a bit stiffer dose of IMR4227 in 357 brass.
My heavy duty load is a 140gr XTP over a max load of H110. Heck of a combination. Big muzzle flash and great accuracy.
My heavy duty load is a 140gr XTP over a max load of H110. Heck of a combination. Big muzzle flash and great accuracy.
buck460XVR
Member
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- Feb 6, 2007
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- 10,083
Every gun is a unique as it's owner. The GP100 is a just a .357 handgun and as such should shoot quality ammo just like any other production .357 revolver. You yourself will have to find what it prefers.
IMO, folks worry too much about a specific load or bullet. Most reputable bullet manufacturers make bullets intended for a variety of scenarios and all perform well for their intended usage and the velocity they are intended to run at. Same goes for factory ammo. What is more important than the bullet or the ammo is how well you shoot it and/or it performs outta your particular firearm.
Reloading gives you a wider range of options for loads than just buying factory made. As a new reloader you are going to be anxious to experiment and find that "sweet" load for individual firearms. This is a good thing. What I will suggest is that you use bullets intended for the use and that you strive to find the loads that make the smallest group on paper outta the firearm they are used in.
Thomas Traddles
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- Feb 24, 2014
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- 145
I've been reloading for my 4.25 GP 100 for about a year. I have only been able to score Red Dot powder. I've got my eye out for more -- I'd like to get some 2400 and Bullseye, but here is what I have been doing:
I cast from two RCBS molds -- 38-148 WC and a 38-158 CM. The former is a double ended wadcutter and the latter is a RNFP. I shoot the wadcutter mostly. I'm hoping to get a .357 lever gun and will feed that with the RNFP
For plinking I load 3.5 g Red Dot under the 148 WC in 38 special cases. This charge gives me somewhere around 850 fps and is quite accurate. A similar charge of Bullseye would also work. And the 158 RNFP also works well with this charge.
I can't load full throated magnums with Red Dot, but can get around 1050 FPS when I load the 148 WC over 5 g Red Dot in 357 brass.
I've also loaded the 158 RNFP over 5 g Red Dot in 38 Special brass for around 1000 FPS.
These loads are accurate and recoil is quite manageable. Reloading for these cartridges is very easy to do. Enjoy.
I cast from two RCBS molds -- 38-148 WC and a 38-158 CM. The former is a double ended wadcutter and the latter is a RNFP. I shoot the wadcutter mostly. I'm hoping to get a .357 lever gun and will feed that with the RNFP
For plinking I load 3.5 g Red Dot under the 148 WC in 38 special cases. This charge gives me somewhere around 850 fps and is quite accurate. A similar charge of Bullseye would also work. And the 158 RNFP also works well with this charge.
I can't load full throated magnums with Red Dot, but can get around 1050 FPS when I load the 148 WC over 5 g Red Dot in 357 brass.
I've also loaded the 158 RNFP over 5 g Red Dot in 38 Special brass for around 1000 FPS.
These loads are accurate and recoil is quite manageable. Reloading for these cartridges is very easy to do. Enjoy.
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