Ruger PC9 (PCC) Upgrade Experiences

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twofewscrews

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So, I've got a PC9, model 19116 (Black Synthetic with Aluminum Free-Float Handguard), and was considering some additional upgrades.

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I currently have the Tandemkross Shock Block Bolt Buffer and the Recoil Spring Retainer installed. Insofar as the Shock Block goes, I installed it after firing only 200 rounds and I can't tell if it made much of a difference in reducing wear and tear, and for sure it hasn't made a difference in recoil. The Recoil Spring Retainer I installed simply because I felt the plastic one was doomed to fail given how clean I like to keep my firearms. For those who have the Block Bolt Buffer installed, have you noticed any difference to either the recoil or the wear and tear?

The other Tandemkross "functional" upgrades such as the Bolt Keeper, Upgraded Receiver Kross Pins, Eagles Talon Extractor, Bolt Head Extractor and Pin Set, and Red Spring did not seem necessary to me. Prior to purchase I read many online reviews that talked about the factory parts falling out while cleaning (receiver pins), wearing fast enough to be an issues (bolt extractor pins) or failing to function after x amount of rounds (extractor). So far I have about 650 rounds through her, I have broken her down three times for cleaning, and I have not encountered any of the issues that other people have had that would lead me to purchase the afore mentioned aftermarket parts. If I encounter any FTF, FTE or any other issues I will consider purchasing the afore mentioned aftermarket parts.

If you had any issues, such as FTFs or FTE, at roughly what round count did it occur? Did you install aftermarket parts or modify the factory parts to fix the issue? If you installed the aftermarket part, did it fix the issue? Did it happen again (you installed the part or modified the part and the issue presented itself after x amount of time/rounds)?

The upgrades I have in mind are the Tandemkross Eagle Eye Rear Sight, the Taccom Magazine Funnel and Ambidextrous Rotating Safety, as well as a second charging handle and extended magazine release made by various companies.

I have already purchased the Eagle Eye Rear Sight which will replace stock ghost ring sight. My eye sight is not the best and I hope the fiber optic set in conjunction with painting the front post will help me use the iron sights out to 50 and 100 yards. I considered purchasing the Front Post sight, but I realized I'd rather paint and keep the factory front sight as its "ears" seem to provide added protection to the front post whereas the Tandemkross front sight is unprotected and could be easily damaged. What has been your experience? How sturdy is the factory front post? How sturdy is the Tandkemkross front post?

The Taccom Ambidextrous Rotating Safety is something I am strongly considering but I'm really on the fence about. For those of you who have it installed, either on the PCC or the 10/22, what has been your experience? Does it function properly? Does it get caught on clothing/brush/etc? Do you need to remove it to break down and clean the firearm?

The Taccom Magazine Funnel is something I'm interested in, but is not high on my list. I'm considering purchasing a second charging handle from one of a number of companies so as to be able to rack the bolt with either hand but this is also not high on my list. Same goes for the extended magazine release, not high on the list.

Please excuse any grammatical/spelling errors as I'm three beers and an hour into proofing/writing this. Cheers :)
 
My only upgrade was a red dot and a Rigid case to carry it in.

I do use the Glock magwell and magazines, from 10-33 rounds. Sighting in targets:

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My only issue to date was the fore end screw working loose when it was being fired. A dab of blue LocTite solved the issue and it has been golden ever since.

Stay safe.
 
My only upgrade was a red dot and a Rigid case to carry it in.

The Rigid case with the Kaizen foam is pretty sweet. That was the first thing I got but I don't consider it an upgrade as it doesn't attach to or affect the function of the firearm.

If you space it out right you can fit a lot in it. I currently have the firearm plus 3 10 round mags (adding two more when they come in the mail), a Bushnell TRS-25, extra batteries and allen wrenchs to break her down with in it. I was/am considering cutting out space for a sling, a rag, bore snake, oil/grease, compass, ammo, flashlight and fire starter but I hesitate to do so as I would be packing a bunch of stuff into the case that would not see regular use or could be easily carried in a second bag.
 
I may have gotten the idea from you, the Rigid box was a great idea.

Stay safe.

I thought it would work because I use guitar cases to transport my firearms to and from the local range so I figured as long as the size is right a case is a case is a case, but another user on here confirmed it would work by doing it before me . . . so THR should take the credit. This forum really is a gold mine of firearms knowledge.
 
Mine is the ‘chassis’ version; I bought that particular one ‘cuz I wanted from the start to use a red dot in the ‘scout’ position (where the ‘front’ sight’s mounted). I got the TK pin sets, and the bolt buffer and spring retainer. Like you, I was simply choosing better metal over plastic. The ‘red’ spring was d/c’ed, and I didn’t bother with the extractor (though I may yet; I did use it on my Mark IV, though I can’t tell if it’s better or the same). For me, I’ve noticed NO difference in felt recoil; but I can appreciate the difference in long-term upkeep, with a thicker/softer buffer to soak up endless cycling. The flat-face trigger was a keeper for me as well; again, I repeated that with my Mark IV and love it there, too.

I absolutely love mine; it’s a tack driver that every person who I’ve had try it can attest to. Whether I just got lucky, or it’s common, I don’t know; I’ve had zero FTFs/FTEs, and I’ve used all the usual weights (115, 124, and 147 ball; and some 117 and 125 HPs). I use the Glock magwell, and other than some ‘wiggliness’ (I posted a separate thread on this), it’s been a joy. (I switched out to Glock because of availability.)

…Have fun customizing!
 
Whether I just got lucky, or it’s common, I don’t know; I’ve had zero FTFs/FTEs, and I’ve used all the usual weights (115, 124, and 147 ball; and some 117 and 125 HPs).

So far I've only used 115 grain fmj and I've not had one issue. Last week I grabbed some 124, 130, and 150 grain fmj and some 147 grain jhp. I assume it will all run flawlessly. Hopefully I'll get to the range sometime this week and see. All the reviews I read or watched where people had FTF/FTE issues seemed to occur with either the earlier versions, were fired without first cleaning and lubing, or seemed to lack proper lubrication. I cleaned mine as soon as I got it home and run it on the wet side.
 
I've got the 19100 model. The plastic recoil spring retainer started to deform at about 1,000 rounds. I had the TK buffer and retainer on hand already and dropped those in.

I put the TK trigger in mine and like it.

I put a second charging handle on the left side. When locking the bolt open to show clear/flag it at steel challenge I use my right hand. When loading switching mags I use the left.

I put the TK fiber optic front sight on, kept the rear peep sight.

I use a Holosun 510c-gr with quick disconnect mount so I can use the same rifle for iron sight and optics in steel challenge. The zero stays very close even when taking the optic off and putting it back on. Steel Challenge is not about pinpoint accuracy.

I put the TK cross pins in. Not required, but I like them. I also use their pins in my 19/22s.

I use Ruger SR9 mags in mine.

I always use an inch pound torque wrench when reassembling the rifle and have never had any issues with loose bolts.

The version of the OC Carbine I have with the traditional stock really is a 10/22 takedown on steroids. Easy and fun to shoot.
 
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