Ruger Precision Rifle Muzzle Brake

[Stripesdude]

I picked up my new Ruger Precision Rifle on Thursday, and the muzzle brake is off about 10 degrees to the left (if you're facing the muzzle). I've tried several different methods of turning it, the last being what should have worked (two wood blocks with hole bored through clamped in my vise) and I have been unable to budge it.

I want to avoid sending it to Ruger because I need the gun next weekend. Does anyone know if Ruger outsources some of their service to local smiths? I'm hoping they'd send me somewhere local to have a smith with the right tools time it correctly.

If I do it myself, which way loosens it (facing the barrel as if I'm looking down it, do I turn it right or left)? And what is the best way to clamp it down so it doesn't turn in my vise?

I'm trying to avoid buying a dedicated barrel vise, but may resort to that before I send it to Ruger and am without it for God knows how long (if they won't service it locally). I'd think their QC would be better for a $1200 gun.

 

[Zotto]

Put a hex wrench through the muzzle brake for leverage. Use a wrench to loosen the jam nut behind the muzzle brake, it has flats on it. Adjust the position on the muzzle brake and tighten the jam nut.

 

[Stripesdude]

Yeah, I did that. The nut wont come loose. Do they lock tite them?

 

[REB]

No Ruger doesn't outsource any repairs, you would have to send it back the them.

I would try putting some heat on it. I prefer to use a heat gun rather than a torch but either will work.

 

[Zotto]

I don't know about the thread locker. I bought the Ruger muzzle brake to put on a gen 1 precision rifle. Did you try penetrating oil?

 

[Bartojc]

I picked up my new Ruger Precision Rifle on Thursday, and the muzzle brake is off about 10 degrees to the left (if you're facing the muzzle). I've tried several different methods of turning it, the last being what should have worked (two wood blocks with hole bored through clamped in my vise) and I have been unable to budge it.

I want to avoid sending it to Ruger because I need the gun next weekend. Does anyone know if Ruger outsources some of their service to local smiths? I'm hoping they'd send me somewhere local to have a smith with the right tools time it correctly.

If I do it myself, which way loosens it (facing the barrel as if I'm looking down it, do I turn it right or left)? And what is the best way to clamp it down so it doesn't turn in my vise?

I'm trying to avoid buying a dedicated barrel vise, but may resort to that before I send it to Ruger and am without it for God knows how long (if they won't service it locally). I'd think their QC would be better for a $1200 gun.

My friends was the same as you are mentioning, I saw it. He just loosened the jam nut as mentioned. Positioned the brake where he wanted it, and then tightened the jam nut.

-Jeff

 

[Stripesdude]

Zotto and Bartojc- so the brake isn't connected to the nut? I thought they were one piece?

So I turn the nut and the brake in opposite directions? Do you know which one I turn clockwise?

Thanks in advance for the help guys....I've never struggled with a muzzle device that is this stubborn.

 

[Bartojc]

Zotto and Bartojc- so the brake isn't connected to the nut? I thought they were one piece?

So I turn the nut and the brake in opposite directions? Do you know which one I turn clockwise?

Thanks in advance for the help guys....I've never struggled with a muzzle device that is this stubborn.

Yes turn in opposite directions to tighten (lock) the brake in place. I was not there when he did it, he told me he loosened the jam nut, clocked the brake to where he wanted it and locked in place.
Assuming right handed threads, as you are looking at the muzzle you would turn the jam nut clockwise, clock the brake the position you want it and then turn the jam nut counterclockwise to lock it in place. As I said this assume right handed threads. I do not know for sure, but I'm sure someone here does or if you can look at the threads you might be able to see.

-Jeff

 

[Zotto]

Bartojc's description is correct.

 

[Stripesdude]

Whew....got it off...finally. I've not used that much force to remove a muzzle device before, although I've not removed one that uses a nut to push against it. Any AR flash hider I've removed has been a fraction of the force this required. Now to get some flat black paint to cover the scratch marks from the vise blocks!

 

[wally]

Now to get some flat black paint to cover the scratch marks from the vise blocks!

Too late to help you, but scrap pieces of heavy leather (like from an old belt) is the answer here, along with "V" blocks for your vice to get four points of contact instead of only two as you get with parallel jaws.