Ruger Redhawk vs S&W 329PD vs S&W 629 / 29 for Hiking Gun 4in barrel

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Well thanks for all the opinions.. but its a done deal... I just purchased for $635 a pre-lock model S&W 629-4 44 mag revolver from gun broker. The guy claims it is in near mint condition and he has pretty good feedback on gunbroker. I pray to God I made the correct decision and didn't goof up. Many people have been telling me the older S&W's were better built and designed than the newer models, which I hear are more mass produced to put up with the popular demand. Also, the lack of the internal lock seems lik a major benefit to me.

At first I was considering the Ruger Redhawk, but from what I have heard, between the heavier weight and bulkier design, it really would have not been the easiest gun to lug around the mountainous trails of the Paciifc NW, which I plan to do this summer. I just hope the gun can handle the hot loads I plan on using for black bear defense. The crazy recoil of the 329PD made me want to stay away from that gun.


Well, this will be my outdoor gun for my journeys. I pray to God that it will work well for me and I look real forward to trying it out and shooting it. I have put up some pics of the gun so people can see.. Tell me from the pics if it looks to be in as good condition as said. From my best

Let me know if I did ok.. I think a gun like this can easily be sold for almost same price if I don't like it. It was the cheapest and best deal i coudl find anywhere, and I called almost every place in this country for deal on 629.

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Looks like a nice revolver, good luck with it.

Get yourself a really good holster and you will get used to carrying it around. For colder weather when you are wearing a coat you might consider a chest holster. Simply Rugged had a really good system to convert their holsters along with outstanding leather belt holsters too like their Sourdough Pancake.
 
Yes, that looks pretty good, and you could probably sell it for that pretty quickly; not a bad deal. Probably a later-production of the -4 run as it has the "new" cylinder latch. It should be a good gun for you. One thing I did like about that production run a lot was the CH hammer/trigger. I had a 686-4 from that period that was like that. Your gun looks like it might have had no more than 12 rounds through it - it's really clean and lacks a few tell-tales you just can't erase after even modest usage - a cylinder ring of much note, and some recoil marks on the recoil shield. Both are barely visible in that one - it looks very lightly used. I would agree that, based on the pictures, it could be in near mint condition, yes.

to lug around the mountainous trails of the Paciifc NW

That is what I (and others here) do with mine. A way to carry I find very good in the woods is a GI style M3 "Tanker" shoulder holster like they carried .45's in during WWII. Cabela's carries an inexpensive chinese import copy of a WWII Pilot's Victory holster that is actually oversized for a victory revolver (ask me how I know). But if you wet stretch it, it fits a 4" N frame really well. Or, El Paso Saddlery or other custom makers can make you some REALLY nice rigs like that for a little more. Off the hip so it doesn't smack brush and trees in the dense woods here is a bonus.
 
That has the blue plastic box - making it '96 or later - the current style thumb piece makes it '97 or later. As it is a round butt, you can use the S&W/Hogue .460/.500 Magnum monogrip to pad the backstrap and help with recoil. They are still only available from S&W Accessories at $37 + s/h. I have a drawer full of OEM Hogues... I don't like rubber grips. I did buy a pair of the X-frame grips for each of my 629s, however - they help - and they will fit any round butt K, L, N, or X frame.

Now, you S&W detractors... how many Infernal Lock failures - or other S&W failures, for that matter - do you personally know of? I am speaking of first hand knowledge, not folklore. Most of my S&Ws - including my 642 - my CCW - have the IL. I didn't order them that way - and wouldn't - but I won't say no to a current production older mode, much less a new entry, because of it's inclusion. Try as I might, I have never been able to cause an IL fault. Of course, not dropping my revolvers several feet to a concrete floor - or limp-wrist firing them - helps. As to dependability, current S&Ws are fine - and have the best warranty ever currently. There is a reason for that.

The Ruger is tougher rationale needs to be revisited. I had a Redhawk - in .45 Colt - bought it new. Within days, it was headed home - burst casting bubbles between the cylinder exit bores didn't instill confidence - neither did the flawed hammer & trigger. All - and more - were replaced. It was still horrible - my 625MGs in .45 Colt are such an improvement. Much happiness in the Stainz abode when someone else thought it a treasure! That RH trigger pull is long and never as slick or light as a S&W - no doubt partially due to it's use of a single spring for trigger return and hammer power - a design they abandoned everywhere but the RH. Recall that the RHs had a propensity to launch their barrels early in production, causing the development of their intended replacement - the Super Redhawk, which used their conventional two spring lockwork, a la the SP-101 and GP-100.

While the RH allows a teeny bit more cartridge OAL, it's cylinder wall-wall thickness is no greater. It does look larger - a requirement in an investment cast frame, like Ruger uses, for the same strength as a hammer-forged and heat-treated frame, a la the S&W. Compare the 4" 629 (41.5 oz) with the 4.2" .44 Magnum RH (47 oz) - they do look and feel different. I'll take the 629. Last year found me ridding my safe of all Rugers, save the black powder 'Old Army'. I have fewer revolvers thes days - but they are all S&W - and I won't sell a one of them, keepers all! YMMV.

I think you did fine for today. In August, it will be four years since I bought my new 6" 629, SKU #163606... it was $569 + s/t - brand new. Times - and prices... have changed. That revolver, a -6, is the currently available version - and a fine revolver, as is it's younger sibling, the 4" 629-6, SKU #163603, depicted earlier (It replaced my earlier 629MG.). Enjoy your new revolver. Contact GA Arms - and try some of their excellent quality loads - great value. Get that S&W/Hogue .500 Magnum monogrip - you'll thank me later. Try any .460/.500 Magnum S&W - they all use that grip - for hand fit. Be safe - and congratulations.

Stainz
 
It's pretty easy to disable the lock. I have never had lock issues but I have read about them often enough that I disabled the one on my 329.

TexasRifleman,

I just ordered a 329PD, how did you disable the lock?

Thanks,

Mike G.
 
4Freedom, if you do plan on hiking with that 629 concealed, you might want to look into smaller grips. Hogue and Eagle Grips both make some petite wood grips that work, called Bantam and Secret Service grips respectively, and Pachmayr's Compac grips will cover your backstrap with rubber. Switching grips might shave a couple ounces off, too.

I've given quite a bit of thought of how to conceal such a large revolver, especially since people around here in WA tend to freak out if they see you hiking with something in the open. It gets complicated once you add a backpack and raingear to the mix (and it does rain a lot in the Pacific NW). The best solution I've come up with is fanny pack holster holster; this puts it out of the way of shoulder straps, plus it an be worn over any clothes you might wear. With such a heavy gun it's a good idea to pair the holster with a decent gun belt; some of these holsters have a clip or loop that lets you hang them from a belt as well as clip the pack's strap around your waist.
 
Thanks for the advice WOlfeye.. I am taking it to heart and currently investigating grips and holsters.

Hogue and Eagle Grips both make some petite wood grips that work, called Bantam and Secret Service grips respectively, and Pachmayr's Compac grips will cover your backstrap with rubber. Switching grips might shave a couple ounces off, too.

I am considering getting some hogue grips. Would you choose between wood or hogue to handle the fierce recoil of the 4" S&W 629? Which of the ones listed here do you prefer? I thought Hogue would be the best recoil absorber, compared to wood.


The best solution I've come up with is fanny pack holster holster; this puts it out of the way of shoulder straps, plus it an be worn over any clothes you might wear. With such a heavy gun it's a good idea to pair the holster with a decent gun belt; some of these holsters have a clip or loop that lets you hang them from a belt as well as clip the pack's strap around your waist.

Yes, I am debating amongst which type of holsters to use. What brand of fanny pack holster that I can get within the next couple weeks, or even better, immediately, would you suggest? What are your thoughts on a chest holster? I was considering a chest holster would be the most inconspicuous and would balance out nicely on the body during a hike. I think a shoulder rig would be hard to access very quickly with the backpack blocking me. Between chest and fanny pack holster, which would you choose? Please be aware I don't have 10 weeks to wait for a holster, so if you can suggest some holsters that can be purchased right away, that should do the job well, please let me know.
 
I think you've made the right choice with the 629. I purchased a 329PD a few months ago and while I enjoy it very much for plinking and shooting, I'm not sure that I'd take it into bear country as my only means of protection. Granted, you probably don't want to shoot magnum loads with heavy bullets all day long in this, but on round number four I encountered what I think was an IL failure. I was able to get it sorted out. Then a week later, on round 50 or so, I had a problem with the cylinder center pin binding and not pushing the cylinder bolt release to the rear - which meant that the 2nd round would not fire because the cylinder bolt was not fully to the rear - thus preventing the hammer from rotating to the rear.

Search on my user name (danbrew) here at THR and you'll find the thread with a few pics.

I sent it off to S&W and got it back in 2-3 weeks and they replaced the center pin and spring and claim it's all good to go. Yeah, well, we'll see. As I said then, it sure would suck to be in bear country and need a second shot (for yourself of the bear) and not be able to get one.

I did originally purchase the 329PD for those back country experiences and now have zero confidence that it would work as expected. Still is a nice gun, and makes a nice bang, and I do kind of enjoy blasting a .44 with the 26 oz. gun. Nice. I did remove the IL, btw. Put it back in when I sent back to S&W and prompty took it back out when I got the gun back.

Very unfortunate that this gun seems plagued by problems as it is a nice idea. I talked myself into registering a domain (I'm a geek) to document my 329PD experiences - www.329PD.com - although I've yet to spend too much time with it. One of these days I'll spend some more time with it - crazy busy at work at the moment.

Because I like small and loud and big (yeah, I probably have some sort of envy problem - maybe I got a small dick?), I'm actually considering the 329 Night Guard (and the 325 Night Guard) - just for fun.

I think you'll be well served by the 629. Nice that you got a version without the IL. I'd get a cross the chest holster for your 629. Keep it out of the way, but easy to carry and readily accessible. You can wear over/under outerwear and the holsters are readily available. I really like the houge grips that ship with the 329PD - much better than the wood grip, imho.

Enjoy.

danbrew
 
HI, thanks for the guy who gave me the advice on Simply Rugged holster. I just purchased a sourdough pancake holster with chest strap adjustment, so I can wear it either in the waist or on the chest. The guy is real friendly and even accommodated me with a good heavy duty gun belt for $30.00. Also, got another IWB holster for my S&W M&P 45 from him. All this will run me around $200.00 and I should see it in the next couple of weeks. Hopefully, they will work well for me. His stuff looks well made from the pics and I have heard some others give compliments about his work. I like the fact that he has a versatile system and puts a lot of effort into developing holsters he uses himself in the outback of Alaska.
 
S&W 329PD as trail gun



This thread is rather old so perhaps the issue has been settled. I offer my experience in the event someone might find it useful.

I have backpacked the Colorado Rockies since 1971, and the Idaho backcountry since 1990. In 1996 I hurt myself and was advised to lighten my trail load which, at the time was about 75 lbs. The first thing to go was my Marlin .45-70.

I had long avoided the .44 Magnum because of the blast and recoil. Up to then, the most potent cartridge I carried was a .357 Magnum Ruger GP100.

My first .44 Magnum was a Colt Anaconda, which would still be my first choice if it weren’t for the weight. Keeping in mind that how a gun works in a person’s hands is an individual thing, nothing has ever worked better for me than the Anaconda.

To go even lighter I got a 629 Mountain Gun. It exemplifies the issue when choosing a smaller gun for that powerful cartridge. One must learn how to shoot it, and most of the people who claim they know, are liars. I advise finding a successful .44 Magnum handgun hunter, an older person who has taken deer with one for years.

As former military and law enforcement, I was taught to rigidly control the gun. That works fine for human-intended cartridges from 9mm and .38 Special to .357 Magnum, .45 ACP and .40 S&W. Rapid, precise follow-up shots can be critical to survival, so keeping or getting back on a small part of a target is critical. Even the .357-Sig in the Sig Sauer 239 is accurately controllable that way.

My first range session with the 629 was a disaster and I questioned why I had wasted the money. Luckily for me, an experienced handgun hunter was in the next bay and expressed interest in shooting the 629. First time, he put all 6 rounds into a three-inch circle, off hand at 30 feet in about 20 seconds, double-action. Clearly, I had something to learn.

The single most important thing was not to try holding the gun rigidly. With each shot he allowed his arm to swing up with the recoil, even out of his support hand. This let his larger arm and shoulder muscles act like bungee cords instead of recoil pads. I adopted this immediately and can tell you it has served to allow me to shoot even my Hamilton Bowen-built Ruger Redhawk in .500 Linebaugh. Try to hold THAT gun rigidly and you will wind up in the emergency room. Let it fly, and I can fire up to 12 rounds in a session.

Back to backpacking. As I continued to age I needed to lighten my trail load further. I am now down to about 60 lbs. That required replacing sleeping bag and tent, eliminating fresh food, my flask of booze, and further downsizing my trail gun. BTW, I had a Ruger Redhawk with six-inch barrel. Very nice gun. I highly recommend it, and it can be had for a lot less than the S&W 629, 29 or 329PD. Still, too heavy for me, if there was an alternative. Enter the 329PD.

Take everything I said about handling the 629 and magnify it for the 329. First, do NOT try the wood grips. I think of them as strictly for show. Put on the rubber ones. I felt I needed capability in full darkness and put on Crimson Trace Hog Hunter LaserGrips. In two words of advice to you: Do it! I adjusted point of aim for 30 feet, and the big rubber padding really protects my hand.

Step two was MagnaPort. Again, in two words: Do it! They put four trapezoidal ports in the barrel. The recoil reduction is small, but every bit is worth it.

Ammo: Before I bought my 329PD I called S&W and pointedly asked if it could handle and survive the Garrett 305-grain Hammer Head cartridges. They said the gun would handle and survive those just fine, as well as any other SAMI-spec hunting load. You should fire these first in an iron gun to prepare yourself for what will happen in the baby-weight 329PD. Start your practice wearing gloves designed to pad your hands. There are now shooting gloves made just for this, but I started with bicycle-riding gloves. They work fine, so find which are cheaper. Let the gun rise up, as described above. In short order you should find yourself able to shoot with reasonable rapidity, all six rounds without hurting yourself. Do it wrong, and your hand will bleed and the bones of your hand and wrist will hurt, heralding long-term real problems if you keep it up. Ask John Taffin or Duke Venturino.

The 329PD is not the gun I take to the range for fun. When I run into egomaniac macho shooters I’ll bring it with the Garretts or my own similar handloads (much cheaper to shoot). No such idiot has fired more than three. BTW, if you use anyone’s handloads, be SURE they are heavily crimped because the bullets WILL creep forward, protruding out the front of the cylinder and locking up the gun.

When I do want to shoot it for grins, I bring my down-loaded Magnum rounds, 200-grain lead bullets (Laser Cast) loafing out the barrel at about 900 to 1000 fps, or my black powder substitute Cowboy loads at 750 fps or so. Both require significant resetting of the sights. Which brings up another recommended modification: I put the XS Sight System Big Dot with white outline on the front and Express sight on the rear. Remember, I am not interested in bulls-eye shooting, I want “minute of bear” at up to about 30 feet. In early 2010 I will be adding Cylinder & Slide’s Extreme Duty rear sight with tritium white-outline dots. I put this combo on my S&W 386NG Night Guard and love it. Combined with the LaserGrips, I will have a trail gun accurately shootable in any light condition, whether I can align it with my eyes or not. Remember, bears will probably NOT pause to give you time to set them up if they have you on the menu.

Before I go on the trail, I take the PD to the range and shoot up to 6 rounds of the heavy hunting loads just to adjust the sights, if necessary. The Extreme Duty sights are not adjustable, but I learned to shoot in the military in Vietnam and am adept at applying “Kentucky Windage” on the fly, which I will do when shooting my lighter loads at home. If I really need to adjust something, I use the LaserGrip.

The S&W internal lock is a non-issue. I don’t like them, but there are NO, repeat NO verified problems with them. S&W had a standing reward offered to anyone who could bring them a lock that spontaneously set or even came apart. No one took them up, and no gun has yet been returned to them because of the lock. There was a report in the popular firearms press of one coming apart, but even that has proven to have no merit. I carry two of the keys with me when I’m in the field or at the range, but have never used them. My guns are NEVER locked. I’m told a competent gunsmith can remove the lockwork. It isn’t illegal, except, probably, in the Peoples Reichstadt of California, maybe NY and Maryland. However, if you ever need the services of a high-profile gunsmith, or S&W, they will refuse to work on it until you let them replace the lock.

A note on blue, carbon steel guns. If you buy and keep guns with a major care about future resale value, don’t pass “Go,” head straight to Jail, and do not collect $100. I have a Colt Python with RUSTED backstrap, considerable finish wear on barrel and cylinder, scratches, and extraneous wear marks and dings. What a story it tells! And, I have a S&W 586 that looks as though it was dragged behind its owner rather than carried in a holster. Like the Python, it shoots just fine, and I have spent many a time wondering at its past. If you buy a gun, shoot it like you stole it. A bad finish also means a lower purchase price for you. I paid $325 for the Python, $360 for the 586, and bought an early S&W .357 Magnum (successor to the Registered Magnum) for $300, just because of finish wear. They all shoot fine.

I first learned backpacking and hunting from a group of retired military men in Colorado Springs, who lived there to be near the USAF Academy and the military personnel facilities. One of them, nicknamed “Turkey” for the dreadful booze he liked to drink, had a pre-27 S&W with a long barrel. He made his own ammo and we all said he wasn’t happy with it unless it could drill holes through the mountains! That gun went on the trail with him all year round, and looked like it. He is still alive and I have lobbied him heavily to sell that beast to me. But, he has promised it to one of his daughters, who is a horse trainer. She otherwise carries a Ruger Blackhawk three-screw .357 Magnum. She can blow the head off a rattler at 30 feet from the back of a rearing horse with it. (*I* don’t shoot snakes. They are too valuable creatures.)

Today there are many good ways to protect a blue gun in the field. You can wax them. A friend uses Turtle Wax on his GP100. There is also Boe-Shield. I may not have spelled that correctly, but it comes from Boeing Aircraft Company and is used in internal parts of aircraft fuselages with great success. Regardless of gun, I carry a cloth impregnated with RemOil, or Rustproofe, or other such product, and wipe the gun each evening and after any rain.

Thanks to the governor of Colorado, who would rather see honest people dead, non-residents cannot get a Colorado CCW permit, and cannot carry concealed with another state’s permit, so my gun has to be exposed to the rain and snow while on the trail. Interestingly, to me, nearly all of the people I’ve met openly carrying on the trails are Colorado residents, who COULD carry concealed. Remember, bears will not strike a pose and say “Draw!”

One more note on carrying. You spoke with concern about the weight of the Ruger, but stated you “hike.” I take that as different from “backpack,” where ounces matter. In either case I use a fitted holster. R.M. Bachman of Montana custom made one to my specs for my 329PD. I have off-the-shelf Hunter holsters for my Anaconda and 629. For a belt, I went to Home Depot and got a carpenter’s utility belt. It’s wide, very tough, stands up to weather, and is cheap. It makes carrying the gun and 18 rounds of extra ammo very easy, and I usually have bear repellent and six rocket flares on it, too. I also fitted an Uncle Mike’s nylon holster to my backpack waist strap. The gun is not even noticeable. I use strictly belt holsters for rapid access.

In conclusion, all your choices would be fine. You must learn how to protectively handle the lighter guns with heavy .44 loads, but it isn’t as hard as you might think. Heavier guns are easier to shoot, and all, even the 329PD, will stand up to heavy loads so long as they are still within SAMI spec.

Now, get out there and HIKE!

-Backpacker 33
 
Backpacker33,

Nice post until you made the following statement. This is BS and possibly could get somebody hurt or worse. To categorically state it is a non issue is just wrong.

The S&W internal lock is a non-issue. I don’t like them, but there are NO, repeat NO verified problems with them. S&W had a standing reward offered to anyone who could bring them a lock that spontaneously set or even came apart. No one took them up, and no gun has yet been returned to them because of the lock. There was a report in the popular firearms press of one coming apart, but even that has proven to have no merit. I carry two of the keys with me when I’m in the field or at the range, but have never used them. My guns are NEVER locked. I’m told a competent gunsmith can remove the lockwork. It isn’t illegal, except, probably, in the Peoples Reichstadt of California, maybe NY and Maryland. However, if you ever need the services of a high-profile gunsmith, or S&W, they will refuse to work on it until you let them replace the lock.


First of all, you can't possibly know this. Just because it never happened to you, doesn't mean it hasn't or can't happen. Mechanical things fail. Hope those two keys work for you when that bear is on top of you. Further, S&W has a vested interest in "No Lock Failures" and how could you prove to S&W that you had a lock failure -- it is illegal to send a loaded gun anywhere.

I've had 3 (three) 329s and on two of them the lock self engaged during firing -- never happened again after removal. I've shot over 8,000 rounds of Magnum level loads through those guns and carry one all day everyday.

I'm not saying the lock should be removed, everyone needs to make an informed decision, but you have provided misinformation (as fact) with that paragraph.

IN MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE, THOSE LOCKS DO SPONTANEOUSLY ENGAGE IN 329s.

Here's a picture of a "broken" lock --

LockParts.jpg

I hesitated to even respond this this post, but just couldn't let it go.

Paul
 
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