JR47
Member
Bluing is a passivation process in which steel is partially protected against rust, and is named after the blue-black appearance of the resulting protective finish. True gun bluing is an electrochemical conversion coating resulting from an oxidizing chemical reaction with iron on the surface selectively forming magnetite (Fe3O4), the black oxide of iron. Black oxide provides minimal protection against corrosion, unless also treated with a water-displacing oil to reduce wetting and galvanic action. A distinction can be made between traditional bluing and some other more modern black oxide coatings, although bluing is a subset of black oxide coatings.
Cold bluing is a controlled oxidation of ferrous metals similar to rust. Whether cold or hot blued, these metals should be treated with a wax, lacquer or water displacing oil to reduce exposure to corrosion causing moisture.
Would that, perhaps, help?
FYI, until after WWII's rebuilds, many 1911 pistols were blued. As was the Reising Carbine, a USMC only weapon, and the Model 1928 Thompson. The US carbine was also a blued gun. Many of the various S&W revolvers in stock during Vietnam were similarly blued steel.
The fact that parkerized surfaces worked better with a "little" oil only proves the point that they held the oil. That one can overdo application of oil is simply an American trait of "if a little is good, more is better".
The fact that in the white metals also have pores that allow oil to remain in them is well known. That doesn't say anything about the ability of bluing to hold oil, other than that it's a similar phenomena.
The fourth point has nothing to do with oiling a weapon to prevent corrosion. Nobody said anything about a heavy coating of oil. That has nothing to do with the bluing, or the base metal, being able to absorb, and hold oils to prevent corrosion.
And, put simply, you can't wipe it all off after you apply it. To get it all off you must use a solvent to strip the surface. This is true whether the surface is blued or unfinished. Otherwise an oil residue will continue to offer a thin chemical barrier and at least some protection.
If that were true, why bother with bluing, parkerizing, or any other finish? Metal is not an impermeable barrier. It has pores. Passivation creates a place in which a reservoir of oil can be held. It's not much, but it helps to hold oil in small quantities that will last longer than what is held in the bare metal pores.
It wasn't for beauty that Browning, and then Bluing, were created, and used, along with oils. It was simply to enhance the corrosion resistance on the metal.
A blued gun, treated with oil, will resist corrosion longer than an in the white piece of metal treated to a similar oiling. Rust will start at any point that the metal is exposed to oxygen. The bluing, in and of itself
. If it didn't hold the oils called for, then it wouldn't protect against rusting.is partially protected against rust
a blued surface, because it has already a formed a rust barrier that, as it was formed, used up some of the chemical in the steel that would allow more aggressive types of rust to occur. It's a barrier, but not a perfect one.
That is actually quite close. However, bluing isn't capable of preventing rust by itself, as both of the citations explain. Instead, it holds the oils, preventing oxygen from gaining quick access to the metal, and forming rust.
Bluing is cheap, settled science, and is accepted by the consumer. There are multiple better coatings available, but they cost more, and add steps in addition to those of bluing. They may have environmental concerns in some cases. They can also cause tolerance stacking if applied too thickly.
You pays your money, and takes your pick.