Rural Home Defense

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I live in almost the same type of rural area. Ive ahd a couple interesting situations that i have posted about in the last few months. I have found that a camera is your best friend. I also advise you to keep a pad and pen handy and write down dates and times that wierd things occur. Driveway alarm/IR tripwires, motion lights, and free-running trained hunting dogs are what I have turned to.

In my case I am just lucky that 2 of the sheriff's deputies in my county graduated from highschool with me, and I keep them updated to the things that happen around my place. Law enforcement having a record of occurances is the absolute best thing I can recommend.
 
My general knowledge of people robbing you in the sticks is that its usually some vagrants from nearby that know a little about you, can easily here where you are from gossip, and will use that to their advantage to steal stuff. Why break into an occupied house at night if you're going to be at Lisa's wedding in the next county all day?
 
A couple of things I'd like to add

1) good trauma kit and multiple people w/ knowledge of how to use it
2) good communication with neighbors of like mind, if you are lucky enough to have any.
 
I'd like to see a discussion and thoughts on your rural tactics, precautions etc.

I believe in keeping the yard dark the house secured and dark, guns at easy access and have a plan to escape the house quietly and hide in cover if you can.
 
The choice of weapons is totally immaterial. You can't buy security by being armed with a certain best type of firearm. I have seen plenty of successful rural home defense situations that were handled just fine with the .22 rifle that was kept in the home to dispatch varmints and pests, or the 12 gauge single shot that keeps crows out of the garden. The important thing is that you know how to use whatever weapon you choose.

Physical security measures are the most important things in this situation just as important in a rural area as in an urban area and perhaps even moreso because an intruder may have a longer time to work at breaching them before he's in danger of discovery then in an urban area simply due to the lower traffic volume and the fact that many homes sit off of the road down long driveways.

Gates on the driveways (oil field road type gates are popular here) or at least a warning device that announces when someone has pulled into the driveway are necessary. Motion detecting exterior lighting and the inexpensive dusk to dawn security lights provided by the local utility company are invaluable. Fencing, dogs (but don't count on a dog even for early warning, the big value of a dog is the fact that many people are afraid of them. Unless you are willing to invest big dollars $8K and up in a specially trained dog and have the time to invest in working with the animal to maintain it's and your proficiency you basically have deterrent value with a family pet), good doors, windows and locks are all as important as they are in the city. A good intercom system at your door, preferably one with video is essential.

Good personal security habits are also very important. Don't leave garage and machine shed doors open so people can see what's in there. Don't leave things unsecured, put the tractor or ATV away when you are done with it and lock the door. If you have to leave your vehicles out at night, don't leave cell phones, firearms or other valuables in them and especially don't leave the keys in them. (It seems that in the city people always remember to take the keys but out here in the country you will probably find a good percentage of vehicles sitting in car ports and driveways with the keys in them.) Don't leave anhydrous ammonia tanks sitting in the field and don't allow your neighbor to leave one sit near your house. This is a big hazard if someone breaks the fitting attempting to steal anhydrous to make meth. Anhydrous tanks will attract dirtbags like honey attracts flies.

You don't need high dollar weapons systems, thermal and passive night vision surveillance systems, command detonated mines or anything like that to be secure in a rural area, you just need common sense and good physical security. I responded many times to the farmer or homeowner who was holding an intruder at gun point, none of these people needed any specific type of firearm or high tech/dollar surveillance system, they just needed good simple physical security measures and common sense.
 
When I lived on a farm the best thing we had were the dogs for early warning and keeping people in their cars till we came out of house. You couldn't do anything in the (rural, dairy) area without someone's dogs barking at you.
The next thing is to have good neighbors. They can watch out for you and help out.
The last thing is that you should have varmint guns around anyways depending on what kind of varmints you have in the area. (groundhogs, coyotes, bear) We only had a .22 but then again the only varmints we had were the very occasional (and shy) coyotes.
 
Sorry, my house is nice, but I simply do not feel the need to sit and watch security monitors in my own house. There is simply not that much danger present. Sorry. That's cool if you wanna drop 3k on a night vision optic, I'd rather use the 3k for a nice family vacation.

I don't feel the need to "sit and watch security monitors" either, but I do very much like the option of being able to take a look out without leaving the building, especially on the blind spots that are not covered by windows, or windows that offer poor visibility.
 
+1 on getting a dog.

" Dogs can be a great alarm, but can be taken out with a silenced .22 from a distance"

Unless you have enemies in the Israeli Mossad or Her Majesty's Secret Service, that seems pretty unlikely.

I've lived out in the boondocks for about 15 years now and my advice is your first firearm should be a shotgun. 12 or 20 gauge.

Then a 30-30, Mini-14, M1 Carbine, some kind of AR or AK or even a .22 Magnum. Your much more likely to need to protect you and yours from coyotes or rabid raccoons than humans. The shotgun will take care of those, too, but if you need to take the poor creature in for a disease check the less damage the better.

Oh yea, get a .22 LR rifle, too.
 
How far is the distance from your house to the closest cover?...the farthest cover? That determines your best weapon. Do you have any blind alleys where the house can be approached undetected? Dogs can be a great alarm, but can be taken out with a silenced .22 from a distance. Geese can make just as much racket and are harder to shoot. Small aftermarket car driving lights can be mounted around the edges of your roof, pointed away from your house to blind any attackers and wired to a 12V system so they work even if your electric is cut. If you want, you can even mount motion detectors in the tree line and a distance down the driveway and run the wires to an alarm in your house via buried PVC conduit that will automatically activate them..

you sound like someone I know

Definetly a dog, or 10. Shotgun should do fine for home/personal defense. My grandparents on my mom's side live in talequah OK and in a similar location. My grandpa is limited to a wheelchair and my Grandma works A LOT, their goto gun is a marlin .22 model 60. My grandpa has bone marrow cancer and cant hold anything real heavy or have much recoil and they can't really afford anything bigger at the moment. I plan on getting them a carbine in 9mm or .40 for Christmas this year to fix that.
 
"Dogs can be a great alarm, but can be taken out with a silenced .22 from a distance"
Unlikely, and odds are the shot dog would still raise a racket. I do know of people who have had their dogs poisoned, though. It takes a highly trained dog to refuse a steak or cheeseburger tossed over the fence by a stranger.
 
Naw, I had a teacher who had all her barn dogs poisoned, they put a bowl of ---------(really bad and slow, but all dogs will get in it) just inside her fence off a back road, the sheriff thought it was an ex-student she had kicked out of school the previous semester. It took her dogs a week to die, afterword she started having her property vandalized, there was a rumor that her husband caught someone or bodies, what I remember was two teachers say of the husband "he should have just shot em"
 
I live in a rural area and I have a mossberg 500 loaded with buckshot and equiped with a 5 shot sidesaddle shell holder mounted to the reciever that does house and immediate perimeter duty. I keep the gun loaded with 00 buck and I have 2 extra buckshot loads and 4 slugs sitting in a sidesaddle shell holder mounted to the reciever.

For back-up, whatever handgun that I carried that day does the job and if I need a little extra reach my scoped Marlin .30-30 is more than up to the task.

However, a few years ago I did buy a Romanian SAR-1 AK-47. I have it and a case of 7x39mm ammo sitting in the safe in case we have another hurricane come along and I find myself needing a little more firepower to keep the looters at bay. :) I also have a good stock of 9mm, .357 and .45acp ammo stuffed away for that task.
 
Gates on the driveways (oil field road type gates are popular here)

We've been thinking of putting a gate or chain on our driveway. Two questions for you:

1) What is an oil field road type gate? Anything like a typical electric utility driveway gate? Any photos or description you can offer?

2) My biggest concern is that if I have a solid enough gate or chain to keep someone from driving through it, how will the fire truck or ambulance get through it if they need to? I am leaning towards something like 3/8" grade 80 transport chain with a comparable strength lock, fastened to steel tube posts set a couple feet deep. Do EMS vehicles carry serious bolt cutters? (Yes, I've heard of "jaws of life" but don't know how many response vehicles carry such tools.)
 
You give them a key or meet them at the gate if you can to let them in, or you put a lock box with a combo near the gate that you tell the dispatcher the combo to so the sheriff can open the gate.

If the oil feild gate is like the forestry gate where I used to live, it's a large pipe or rail road tie, kinda looks like a sail boat boom, type gate.
 
I live in a very similar area. One neighbor, a relative and our properties butt up against the national park. Sheriff response times vary from a few mins. to 45 mins.

We both have security systems and watch each others places for strangers. We have dogs, motion activated lighting, a couple of security camera's on the driveways as well. I keep a .357 magnum, Mossy 500 shotgun and an SKS loaded inside the front closet and other firearms accessible at different points through out the house. And when outside usually pack a .357 or .44 mag.

The biggest thing is keeping your house secure when no one is home. The security system is helpful in this regard. I have my phone wiring underground and it comes up inside the house, so cutting it will be difficult unless they decide to climb a utility poll.

If anyone shows up in the night and I am inside already I do not open the door and usually the offer to call the sheriff for help results in a hasty exit. If I am outside and encounter strangers I do challenge and ask what they are doing up here since other than my neighbor they would have no business on the ridge top.
 
I love reading what everyone has said. Some good point and some i don't agree with. I like the idea of having geese, mom had some as i was growing up and those suckers are VERY protective and louder n meaner then most dogs. Our dog passed on last spring and we are looking for another one.
I can see the value of a "forest service/oil field" gate if the homestead can't be seen from the gate. I don't like the idea of having outside lights that are on all the time, thats like saying "hey, look, I'm back HERE".
In our situation the lane forks 4 times to get to our place and we have 15-20 yards to trees and thick underbrush on 3 sides and the neighbors horse pasture 50 yards to the front.
I agree with The Dark Knight that if someone is sniping my dog to get to my place i have bigger problems then petty robbery. Also why spend 3k to protect $1500 worth of stuff.
I strongly agree with learning first aid.
We have a very good relations with 3 of our neighbors and if any of us see a vehicle we don't know we'll stop and see what going on.
The Fire Dept's are volunteer, several months ago there was a wreck about 1/4 mile from the station and it took 45 minutes for the first responders to get there. The police and ambulance are quite as bad but i don't plan on them.
 
Having grown up on a farm, I can appreciate that in the sticks the possibility of a timely police response is pretty remote. I'll leave it for others to debate the best weapons, but generally speaking, light and dogs are your friends. A few things to consider:

-Keep your doors locked and things that might attract thieves out of sight.
-Driveway alarms are inexpensive and reliable.
-Motion-activated floodlights shining out from your house not only illuminate what's out there, but also keep what's out there from being able to see what's behind the light (you and inside your house).
-Trees and shrubs should be placed and trimmed in such a way as to preclude easy concealment.
-You're far better off to defend your home from within your home than to venture out and go after the intruders. Once you do that, you've surrendered a huge tactical advantage.

-A secondary form of communication other than a landline is a very good idea. Cell phones are good. Also, some law enforcement agencies still monitor certain CB frequencies.

Essentially, you want to keep from attracting the bad guys and you want to take advantage of being in a "fortress." In a rural setting you can maintain the upper hand.
 
Ester IX:XVI is correct about the lights. Have extensive perimeter lighting, but have it controlled by switches from a covered/concealed location in your home. Have your lighting directed both away from and to a lesser extent towards your house. Be prepared to shut off all the light inside your house, a back light target is much easier to hit. Make sure the back lit target is the intruder. Normally leave you lights off; the fewer people know you are there, the less likely you are to be targeted.

I have lived for 30 years in a rural setting with sheriff’s department response time approximately 30 minutes. Fences, gates, hedges, and trees to control access help. Dogs make a good alarm system and, outside of the military, I have never heard of dogs being shot with silenced .22's.

Firearms need to be a mix. Handgun or handguns, shotgun, and rifle are all useful for various threats at various distances. In a rural area you have the additional problem of stocking sufficient ammunition for 30+ minute fire fight. Remember, you are on your own until you local sheriff’s department arrives. My handguns are the same caliber as my local sheriff’s department. I keep both 12 ga and 20 ga shotguns because I want my wife to be able to assist me. She is much more accurate with the 20 ga. She is also pretty tough with a Marlin .357 rifle. I keep 500 rounds of 40S&W, 250 rounds of 12 ga #4 buckshot, 25 12 ga slugs, 250 rounds of 20 ga #4 buckshot, 25 rounds of 20 ga slugs, 250 rounds of .357, and 1000 rounds of .223 for my AR. Yes this is far more than I ever anticipate needing even in a prolonged fire fight, but resupply is not an option. Another yes is that this does get expensive quickly. The answer is to build up to it over time. Start out with 50 rds, 25 rds, 10 rds, 50 rds, and 100 rds for the guns listed and them build up. Remember, the only guy that has too much ammo in a fire fight is the other guy.

One other item is to have an escape plan. Look for concealed routes to leave the area if you are out gunned or out manned. Only fight if you can overwhelm you opponent or if you do not have a choice. Remember the Boy Scouts, Be Prepared. Remeber the Army, Be Prepared to change you plans as soon as the shooting starts!
 
Rural

E.9:16, we looked at some property not all that far from you a couple of years back.

Nice country, but you're right about response times up there.

We didn't make it quite that far north, more's the pity, but we have friends down by the river, so we get up there now and then.

Jeff's advice is sound. Mostly you just use your noggin.

Neighbors looking out for each other is good stuff. More than once, while we were looking at properties up there, we'd have some fella in a pickup stop and ask if there was "anything I can do for you folks."

In my line of work, there's only one major employer up there, and they've backed off hiring while things are tight so, like as not, we'll be staying a little south of you for now.


Oh, and welcome to The High Road.

 
Many good (and quite different) ideas already suggested...

Two general points:
(1) Rural/isolated areas do potentially offer perps more freedom of action in terms of time and invisibility from neighbors. This is most frightening if premeditated or god forbid you are targeted. Your neighbors may be great people, reliable, capable, etc., but if they don't see what's going on they cannot help. So precautions might bear this in mind by providing for covert methods of communication ("silent alarm" etc).

(2) One also might consider what will happen if the perps are there before you get home. A great reason to not have a lot of loaded guns in the front closet unless they are securely locked down. I am always surprised by people who describe lots of firepower in easy unsecured reach. The optimal layout might be what my friend from Alaska described: Guns hidden strategically but discretely and securely throughout the family home. His rationale: "Rabid animals from the hills... Rabid people from the hills..." Obviously, how far you go depends on your risk or fear level. But, I do feel some reassurance from my various safes that I will not surprise a burglar armed with all my "optimal" choices. Terrifying thought. ;)
 
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"One also might consider what will happen if the perps are there before you get home. A great reason to not have a lot of loaded guns in the front closet unless they are securely locked down."

-One of the main reasons we always set our security system when leaving, even if for a brief trip. And another reason we have an ambush code we can enter under duress which disarms the system but sends a signal to the monitoring company we have been ambushed.
 
I'm out in the woods myself and aside from 3 mime dogs I have a Winchester Model 12 12ga and my 1911 .45acp. Thinking of getting some type of a door alarm for when I'm sleeping. Can't agree with using a rifle for defense unless your taking fire from afar. Castle doctrine doesn't say much about dead would be intruders that aren't even in the house yet. I would try to run 'em off with a couple of shotgun blasts and if they keep coming they get what they deserve.

If your looking for another dog for a pet/alarm I would recommend a Mastiff. They are very gentle, well mannered and generally a good family dog but they are HUGE and very intimidating to a stranger. Avg weight is around 150lbs. Just the size alone is a big deterrent. I am looking to get one because my 3 dogs wouldn't bark if a bee stung 'em.
 
I used to live in an agricultural area where the nearest neighbor was a quarter mile away and everything else was orchard, vineyard or ravines. During summer half the population was migrant worker... As harvest was ending, you either stayed home or you got burglarized. The greatest danger was in coming home while 'they' were still inside.

Since a truck bumper and a jack or 4x4 can open any door out there without attracting attention, steel doors and dead bolts were irrelevant. Dogs were very effective and so was letting neighbors know when you're away.

Being a good neighbor can be most effective...
Now I live in 'town' with 3 dogs and a girlfriend who shot her last burglar 5 times. I have a small tractor and use it to clear snow from all the neighbors driveway without charging them for the service. The same neighbors all own [gifts] a piece of my chainsaw art too. If you come to my door when I'm away, I will get a phone call from one of the neighbors...
 
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