JustinJ
Member
I've always been happy with Birchwood Casey Barricade. According to their ads it "withstands 500 hours in ASTM humidity test and 96 hours in ASTM salt spray test" but I've never been able to find docs verifying this.
Rust Prevention Tests: Found 2, any others? + Other tips
- Thread starter wacki
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I started using Meguiar's Gold Class Carnauba Plus Paste Wax for the exterior of the slide. Meguiar's Gold Class Carnauba Plus Paste Wax is fairly oily, it also is PH neutral and has no abrasives in it.
I waxed the slide on my G34 and I like it. It is easier to cycle the slide than if it had a light coat of oil on it. And it's more protected than if the slide were wiped completely dry.
The way I do this though is that I put a light coat of fairly thick oil on it first. I use Halvoline SAE 50 on the outside of the slide - just basically wiping down the slide with it. Then I wrap the pistol in cloth and let it sit over night. The next day I give it a wipe down with a dry cloth so I can't see the oil. The oil is still there... you can smell it and you can feel it with your fingers... it is in the pores of the finish. But anyway, then I apply the wax. The wax takes longer to dry because it's not being applied to a painted surface with a clear coat finish - it's being applied to a surface that's been oiled. So anyway the wax probably takes three times as long to dry as it would on a car, but it does dry. maybe the wax is acting as a wick to evaporate the chemicals in the oil that would dry up over time - I don't know. But anyway, I then polish it out with a cotton cloth and my slide has a fairly hydrophobic coating on top of the gun's finish.
I waxed the slide on my G34 and I like it. It is easier to cycle the slide than if it had a light coat of oil on it. And it's more protected than if the slide were wiped completely dry.
The way I do this though is that I put a light coat of fairly thick oil on it first. I use Halvoline SAE 50 on the outside of the slide - just basically wiping down the slide with it. Then I wrap the pistol in cloth and let it sit over night. The next day I give it a wipe down with a dry cloth so I can't see the oil. The oil is still there... you can smell it and you can feel it with your fingers... it is in the pores of the finish. But anyway, then I apply the wax. The wax takes longer to dry because it's not being applied to a painted surface with a clear coat finish - it's being applied to a surface that's been oiled. So anyway the wax probably takes three times as long to dry as it would on a car, but it does dry. maybe the wax is acting as a wick to evaporate the chemicals in the oil that would dry up over time - I don't know. But anyway, I then polish it out with a cotton cloth and my slide has a fairly hydrophobic coating on top of the gun's finish.
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wacki
Member
If i was going to run my own tests... what steel best mimics popular firearms?
ColtPythonElite
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- Jan 8, 2011
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- 10,473
A Glock slide needs next to nothing to prevent rust. I'e carried one a duty weapon for 13 years and don't put anything on it and have never had rust.
As far as wax goes Johnsons paste wax is hard to beat on wood and metal.
As far as wax goes Johnsons paste wax is hard to beat on wood and metal.
wacki
Member
Carnuba is the hardest natural wax. What's the best synthetic?
Also, any waxes out there that produce a matte finish? Seems like all the waxes go for super-glossy which is fine for cars... not so much for guns.
Also, any waxes out there that produce a matte finish? Seems like all the waxes go for super-glossy which is fine for cars... not so much for guns.
oldbear
Member
I've owned and stored handguns over 40 years now and I've only had a rust problems with one, an early Dan Wesson, so I'm not sure that counts.
I clean them well after every use, lite oil, wipe down with clean cotton cloth, then place in a silicon treated storage bag. depending on the amount of use each revolver receives it gets two thin coats of Johnson's and Johnson's paste wax once or twice a year. The wax keeps them looking nice and offers protection to the exterior surfaces.
My "ready revolvers" get a wipe down after every handling.
I clean them well after every use, lite oil, wipe down with clean cotton cloth, then place in a silicon treated storage bag. depending on the amount of use each revolver receives it gets two thin coats of Johnson's and Johnson's paste wax once or twice a year. The wax keeps them looking nice and offers protection to the exterior surfaces.
My "ready revolvers" get a wipe down after every handling.
I am in the northeast and have had guns rust sitting in foam cases. One sat in a foam case for about 6-8 months and the cylinder was badly rusted where it contacted the foam. I don't do that anymore.
I was thinking about how to store without metal touching the foam and the obvious answer struck me. Guns are shipped from the factory in their cases. The pistols themselves are in plastic bags.
I started wiping them down with Breakfree (pretty much all I use), put them in ziploc bags inside the pistol cases and never had a problem since.
Knew there had to be a reason they shipped in plastic bags. Sometimes the answer is right under your nose...
I was thinking about how to store without metal touching the foam and the obvious answer struck me. Guns are shipped from the factory in their cases. The pistols themselves are in plastic bags.
I started wiping them down with Breakfree (pretty much all I use), put them in ziploc bags inside the pistol cases and never had a problem since.
Knew there had to be a reason they shipped in plastic bags. Sometimes the answer is right under your nose...
That isn't good! Under some circumstances you can get condensed moisture trapped in the bag. Manufacturers usually warp the gun in a piece of Vapor Inhibitor Paper (VIP), and put the gun in a plastic bag.
However do not use VIP on nickel or other plated handguns, and it is advisable to remove and wrap plastic, antique hard rubber, ivory, pearl, and some light wood stocks separately.
VIP can be obtained from www.brownells.com
However do not use VIP on nickel or other plated handguns, and it is advisable to remove and wrap plastic, antique hard rubber, ivory, pearl, and some light wood stocks separately.
VIP can be obtained from www.brownells.com
I've only seen S&W use the paper instead of a plastic bag. I'm sure other companies use it too, I haven't seen them however. Most of the pistols I buy they come in plastic bags inside the case.
I have not had a problem in 10 years using the plastic bag method, but I do understand your concerns. People should be made aware of potential dangers of any storage method.
I also use Bore Stores silicon pouches for storage. Been using them for about 5-7 years and again, so far, no troubles.
I have not had a problem in 10 years using the plastic bag method, but I do understand your concerns. People should be made aware of potential dangers of any storage method.
I also use Bore Stores silicon pouches for storage. Been using them for about 5-7 years and again, so far, no troubles.
A lot depends on where you store your guns. If the temperature is stable you may (or may not) be safe from condensed moisture. But if for whatever reason it should go from cold to warm condensation may form on the metal, and be trapped in the bag. The VIP wrap is an insurance against this as it releases a gas that protects the metal.
With or without a VIP element, another good practice is to wrap the gun in a plastic bag and then use one of those machines designed to vacuum pack food to draw out the air and then seal the bag. No air = no condensation.
I have refinished guns that badly rusted after they’re owners stored them in sealed plastic bags, especially in a motor vehicle.
With or without a VIP element, another good practice is to wrap the gun in a plastic bag and then use one of those machines designed to vacuum pack food to draw out the air and then seal the bag. No air = no condensation.
I have refinished guns that badly rusted after they’re owners stored them in sealed plastic bags, especially in a motor vehicle.
HEAVY METAL 1
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- Jan 18, 2005
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learn from my mistake
"The best dessicant I have found is calcium chloride.... it will absorb water from the air eventually becoming liquified. "
I used that once & it caused me GREAT GRIEF! The crystals expanded, overflowed the container, spilling its contents on a couple of guns & the side of the metal cabinet & rust set in big time. It absorbes moisture very well indeed, but if it so much as touches your guns you will have rust. I made the mistake of putting the container on a shelf in my cabinet because if I put it on the floor I might knock it over:banghead:. I use golden rod dehumidifiers and canned dessicants sold for gun cabinets only (in addition to oil rub downs as discussed above).
"The best dessicant I have found is calcium chloride.... it will absorb water from the air eventually becoming liquified. "
I used that once & it caused me GREAT GRIEF! The crystals expanded, overflowed the container, spilling its contents on a couple of guns & the side of the metal cabinet & rust set in big time. It absorbes moisture very well indeed, but if it so much as touches your guns you will have rust. I made the mistake of putting the container on a shelf in my cabinet because if I put it on the floor I might knock it over:banghead:. I use golden rod dehumidifiers and canned dessicants sold for gun cabinets only (in addition to oil rub downs as discussed above).
Well Now
Member
jcwit
member
As Well Now showes Fluid Film is an excellant product for rust prevention and alsp for stopping rust. I believe is was first developed for the marine industry. For those wishing to buy it and try some, John Deelers usually have it or can get it. Its available in spray cans, quarts, gallons, and drums. I use is as a rust preventive on my autos, super product and highly recommended.
Calcium chloride is corrosive to metals. The idea is to keep it off of your guns. As a dessicant, it is hard to beat. A little caution is indicated when using it. I use it to store my cameras and lenses and fill a plastic container about 1/2 full, but to each his own.
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