S&W 681-1 - Bummer.

[Phydeaux642]

Well, I stopped by the toy shop today at lunch and immediately eyed a S&W 681-1 and was ready to give the man my credit card and purchase this gun for the small sum of $369. I caught my breath and started checking the gun out and found that it had a tremendous amount of endshake. It seemed to move 3/32 of an inch or so. I don't know if it was that much or not but it sure seemed like it. I checked it against another Smith that was rock solid. Oh, well. I left it there because I am no gunsmith, nor do I play one on TV.

Bummer.

 

[HighVelocity]

I feel your pain. I got real excited when visiting a local shop recently. I spied a 2.5" model 19 with a price tag marked $299. It looked REALLY good in the case. But once I got my hands on it, I could see that somebody had shot the poor thing to pieces, had it re-blued and sold it off. Totally out of time, cracked forcing cone, endshake for days.. I was crushed.

 

[18DAI]

While the 681 is a favorite of mine, I think that price is pretty steep, especially considering the condition you found it in.

Endshake can be an easy fix by a competent gunsmith. IIRC, some bushings, or shims are added, or in extreme cases, the yoke can be "stretched".

Locally, a clean 681 brings around $280 to $325, more for LNIB, with box and docs. I still see many more 681's than the blue 581 version. Good luck with the search! TJ

 

[coyotehitman]

If endshake is the only problem, it is fairly easily fixed unless it is a tremendous amount. Point it out, lowball the seller because of it, fix it, then brag about how little you paid for the gun

 

[Old Fuff]

The only way to be sure about end shake is to check the gap with feeler guages. What you feel or eyeball doesn't count.

That said, if it is really 3/32" then after the end shake was corrected you'd have a .093" cylinder/barrel gap, where .011 is excessive and .005" is ideal. While the end shake issue could be easily corrected, fixing the gap would involve removing the barrel and setting it back. That wouldn't be minor.

If you are serious about the gun (and I would be) I'd go back with a set of feeler guages and confirm exactly what the maximum gap was. Checking the gap doesn't require a gunsmith.

 

[Phydeaux642]

I don't see a lot of used L or N frame revolvers around here, so, that's why I was excited to see it. I did think about offering him less for it and having it fixed but this dealer is one of those that has to tell you how bad things are going for him financially everytime you bring up price. Last month I bought a model 13-4 from him and he would only knock off $15.00.

The funny thing is he didn't even know it was an L frame. He thought it was a K frame. I told him that it was the fixed sight version of the 686 and his response was, "Wow, I've got that priced way too cheap then."