S&W Hammer Nose Spring & Rivet

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I picked up a nice used S&W 686 (no dash) yesterday. I noticed that the hammer nose (firing pin) was loose unlike the one that snaps into position on my Model 28.

I was able to order a hammer nose spring from Numrich but......I don't know how it fits in? Does anybody have a photo or diagram? The one on Numrich's Website calls out the part but it's an exploded diagram and way too small to read.

Now for the dumbest question today. The Rivet that holds the hammer nose in the hammer is also loose. It pushes out from 1 side very easily. Once I replace the spring......what is the trick to expand the little rivet so it won't want to slide out?

I defintely have S&W Revolver Fevor!

Thanks!
 
If it is "loose" and flops about, that's likely how it was designed. It does not use a spring and you may not be able to install that one you purchased.

S&W was inconsistent about installing hammer nose springs. We (forum members) have tried to compare notes and can't really find a consistent use of them over years, models, etc. Of the 686's I have owned, only the earliest production one had a spring.

A 1911 plunger tube swaging tool works great for tightening the rivet. The clamp type ones can be used without removing the hammer from the gun. But keep in mind even if it does not have a spring, the hammer needs to move freely so it does not strike the top of the hammer tunnel and snap off.
 
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"Hammer nose spring"?? Wierd discription of a hammer mounted firing pin, but whatever.

As Oro said...S&W sometimes used a firing pin spring and sometimes not. However, the spring is NOT needed. And as Oro stated...It is entirely possible that you will not be able to install it anyway as the hammer may not be machined to receive one.

Take that Model 28 to the range and shoot it. I bet it preforms beautifully...
 
Oro & Bush,

I did as you said this afternoon. It 686 shot wonderfully. I secured the rivet with pin punches. Looks to be very secure. Nice pistol. Great balance with the 4" barrel. Thanks!
 
I secured the rivet with pin punches. Looks to be very secure. Nice pistol. Great balance with the 4" barrel. Thanks!

And those work, too! The 686 4" is just a gem of a pistol. I've got 29's, a 629, pre-10's, 19's, a 66, 27s, named pre-war models, yada, yada, yada. But the one that sits in the nightstand (next to the 1911's of course!) is a 4" 686. Every revolver fan needs one. What the Winnie 94 is to rifles, the 686 is to revolvers.

Make sure that hammer nose pivots freely to even the slightest pressure - if not it will be striking the frame and break soon. I don't want to insult your abilities. The fact you had pin punches to hand means you likely are good there. But it needs to swing freely so intertia lines it up correctly before the hammer enters the frame tunnel.
 
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"I don't want to insult your abilities......" -

Don't worry, Oro - I'm too dumb to be insulted. The hammer nose is as loose as a goose! My problem was that it was just awkward working on that rivet with the hammer in place. I was wondering if they made a little pliers-like tool or something?

I didn't save my targets but with the 4" barrel that revolver shot very well. I'm real happy.
 
I was wondering if they made a little pliers-like tool or something?

That was what I was suggesting in my first post - Brownell's makes a pair of vice-grips with a stud on one jaw for staking on 1911 plunger tubes. Works great for tightening S&W hammers in place without taking them out of the gun. It is absurdly expensive for what it is ($76 I think), so it's hardly worth buying one unless you really need one. And there are cheaper, equally effective tools nowadays for that job, also.

But otherwise, any work on the hammer should be done with it out of the gun for multiple reasons. But it sounds like you got it sorted. Once these rivets loosen sometimes they just keep on doing it so keep an eye on it and at some point you may need to remove the hammer and install a fresh one.
 
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