S&W hibernation woes

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I own a Smith & Wesson 649 and Iver Johnson Target-8 Sealed and I stored them for 4 months in a basement. Today I recovered them and DAMN! There was some oxidation on the barrel of the old, 60s-era Iver Johnson .22 cal. No big deal, I filed it off with a wire brush, and it seems to still be in excellent working order. Trigger is fine, cylinder spin and alignment are great. Just as when I tucked them away for the summer.

But the S&W 649 snub nose 23 ouncer... There wasn't much rust except on the small checkered part of the end of the cylinder handle (the part you turn; I don't know the name of it). No rust on the barrel, cylinder, or trigger. well, I lubed up every part (on both guns) but the cylinder won't spin unless I rotate it manually, and even then it's a bit stiff. What is wrong? What do I do? Why won't the cylinder turn? Too much gunk or rust? Everything lines up, which is good. But the damn cylinder is just plumb stopped up. SHould I take it to my gunsmith and have him un-FUBAR-it? HELP! I put solvent in an hour ago and it don't seem to be working.
 
Hand Spring may have broken or be gunked-up...

Detailed cleaning...(dismantle and inspect, clean all...re-lube with a good brand of Gun Oil)
 
I suspect old cold grease rather than rust, which is rarely found on the inside of a revolver. Do you know how to remove the cylinder for cleaning and proper lubrication?

Jim
 
Douse it out with brake cleaner (remove all plastic grips first) and clean under the extractor. The see if the cylinder turns freely when open (if not dried grease in the cylinder around the yoke) and if so then lube with breakfree.
 
Off topic, I suppose, but your Iver Johnson Sealed 8 pre-dates the 1960's. In 1960, I purchased a new Iver Johnson Trailsman 66, an 8-shot breaktop .22 with a 6 inch barrel. My dad pushed me in this direction because he had an IJ Sealed 8 back in the 1930's. I believe the Trailsman replaced the Sealed 8 in the lineup.
 
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