S&W model 10 locking up

[Pete D.]

I have an old Model 10. I have used it for years with no problem. Yesterday at the range, however, that changed.
I oiled the gun lightly before use.
I had fired a cylinder full of cartridges. I reloaded and fired one shot. Then the trigger would not pull, the gun was locked up....hammer would not come back...cylinder would not advance. It was difficult to open the cylinder....the thumb piece was quite hard to push so as to release the cylinder.
I took the side plate off to have a look. I noticed that, even with the cylinder closed, the bolt was not moving rearwards to allow the hammer to cock. Using a punch, I pushed the end of the bolt that normally bears against the end of the extractor. It moved freely. I reassembled the gun. I cycled the gun double action and it worked. Loading it again, I fired two shots (not heavy loads) and the gun locked up again. Rather than take it apart again, I unloaded, used a punch to push the end of the bolt...it moved freely....the hammer moved....I reloaded and fired....it locked up again.
Any ideas about what is causing this?
pete

 

[Jim Watson]

The extractor rod is screwed in all the way and the underside of the extractor star is clean, right? If so, I have no ideas on actual mechanical faults.

 

[Taurus 617 CCW]

There may be a broken or out of place part underneath the side plate. Have a gunsmith take a look at it. I don't recommend removing the side plate unless you know the proper technique because you can damage the plate and/or the parts under it.

 

[The Bushmaster]

Look at what Jim Watson's posted (post #2). Also check that the primers are not backing out and jamming the cylinder. Check for carbon and crud build up at the cylinder/barrel gap. If the extractor rod comes unscrewed (it tightens counter clockwise) it can raise all kinds of havic.

 

[rcmodel]

Leave the side plate on.
Nothing to see there.

The spring loaded center pin in the extractor rod is what pushes the locking bolt back out of the way of the hammer.

If the bolt is moving freely?

Then the center pin in the extractor rod is binding up and not pushing it back out of the way of the hammer.

Try working some light oil into it and also make sure the front locking bolt under the barrel lug is moving freely too.

rc

 

[Pete D.]

Thanx

Thanks for the responses. I am away from home and cannot check any of these ideas yet .
Pete

 

[Jim K]

The extractor rod or the center pin might be bent; either can cause the center pin to bind up, as can a bent or twisted spring.

Also, check the bolt spring and plunger and give it a dab of oil, and check the thumb piece to be sure it is not binding.

Jim

 

[Pete D.]

Yep

Yep. Will do. I will report back but won't be home til Friday.
Pete

 

[gamestalker]

I've encountered the same issue before. The threaded extractor rod had come loose. Try holding the extractor rod with your fingers or wedge an ear plug in between it and the barrel to keep it from turning while turning the cylinder clock wise viewing it form the back, at least I think clock wise. That will thread it back in enough to get the cylinder open and finish tightening the rod back in all the way. I've heard of some using lock tite on them, but I personally don't agree with doing that. I borrowed the tool from a friend to tighten it, it's sold at Brownels, or some other means that won't damage it.

What happens is, as the cylinder rotates during function, the the rod gets longer the more it comes un screwed, eventually it locks the cylinder up by pushing the it against the recoil plate.

GS

 

[Pete D.]

Problem solved

The problem is solved. The thumb piece was sticking. Instead of returning to its normal position when the cylinder was closed, it was staying forward. Evidently there was a piece of something that prevented free movement.
A thorough cleaning and now the gun is back to normal.
Thanks all for your replies.
Pete