OP
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Threw a power custom shim in and it bound it up worse. Going back to smith and Wesson next week.
S&W Model 28 sent back for repair
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OP
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Nothing I can see. However I did note the back 3/8 inch or so of the yoke barrel or whatever goes inside the cylinder was bulged or uneven or swollen a little. I doubt that's supposed to be that way. I'll mention it in my note to S&W.
Just one other suggestion...
I don't know what you asked S&W to fix, but if you (rather than they) diagnosed endshake as the problem, and simply told them to fix the endshake, that's what they did. Your measurements now suggest endshake may not have been the problem, so if you send it back, simply tell them it binds a bit after a few cylinders. Let them figure out what the underlying problem is.
I don't know what you asked S&W to fix, but if you (rather than they) diagnosed endshake as the problem, and simply told them to fix the endshake, that's what they did. Your measurements now suggest endshake may not have been the problem, so if you send it back, simply tell them it binds a bit after a few cylinders. Let them figure out what the underlying problem is.
is the barrel turned in the frame (this can bind up the ejector rod)?
check the cylinder gap on both sides of the barrel and see if there is a difference. if the gap is .006" on one side and .008" on the other that is a problem.
luck,
murf
check the cylinder gap on both sides of the barrel and see if there is a difference. if the gap is .006" on one side and .008" on the other that is a problem.
luck,
murf
OP
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Seems to be equal. Gauge goes all the way across from either side, or doesn't from either side. MrBorland that's not a bad idea. They did ask for a letter explaining the problem. I am going to ask them to look closely at the yoke however.
OP
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Well it's on its way back. I asked them to evaluate the cylinder binding, told them my feeler gauge measurements, and asked them to take a close look at the rear of the yoke barrel or whatever it's called. we'll see. Hopefully I get a call before 16 weeks.
243winxb
Member
Could be a few high spots on the cyllinder facing towards the barrel. Had my gunsmith put the cylinder in a lathe and take some off the face. On a S&W K22 revolver.
mikemyers
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Reading this thread has me wanting to put away my autoloaders that I got wrapped up with, and get out my own Model 28.
Too late to be useful now, but as I was reading through the thread, trying to visualize what everyone is talking about, I was thinking that taking a video of the problem might help others to see exactly what's wrong.... as in a picture is worth 1000 words, and a video is worth 1000 pictures.
Nice to see all the people who helped me so much a couple of years back are still so active here!
.....added later.....
Is this what is binding? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dpdy8QQ-Y-Q
I'm trying to visualize what you're talking about.
Too late to be useful now, but as I was reading through the thread, trying to visualize what everyone is talking about, I was thinking that taking a video of the problem might help others to see exactly what's wrong.... as in a picture is worth 1000 words, and a video is worth 1000 pictures.
Nice to see all the people who helped me so much a couple of years back are still so active here!
.....added later.....
Is this what is binding? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dpdy8QQ-Y-Q
I'm trying to visualize what you're talking about.
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OP
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During shooting, either after a few cylinders or more recently after 2 or 3 shots, the trigger can't rotate the cylinder fully into position. Or pulling back the hammer it hits resistance and will not rotate the cylinder. The cylinder is contacting the rear of the forcing cone and causing too much friction to overcome.
At least that's part of the problem. I guess if they don't fix it this time I'll send it to a custom smith and maybe have a .44 special or .45 colt conversion done, if anyone still does that. I've been thinking about that for a long time but didn't want to molest a 28 in good shape.
mikemyers
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If I'm wasting everyone's time by asking, just tell me to stop.
Having watched that video, are you saying that there is end play when some of the chambers are on top, but no end play (binding) when different chambers are on top?
If so, and you numbered them from 1 to 6, does it always happen when a specific chamber is on top, or is it random?
Follow up question. If you put chamber #1 on top, and there is end play, if you swing out the cylinder, advance the cylinder, and swing it back into position - and do this for all the chambers, does the same thing happen?
Having watched that video, are you saying that there is end play when some of the chambers are on top, but no end play (binding) when different chambers are on top?
If so, and you numbered them from 1 to 6, does it always happen when a specific chamber is on top, or is it random?
Follow up question. If you put chamber #1 on top, and there is end play, if you swing out the cylinder, advance the cylinder, and swing it back into position - and do this for all the chambers, does the same thing happen?
OP
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It's random, but I can't check the last thing on your list because it's on its way back to S&W.
And there was .004" of gap when I got it back but after shooting a few cylinders it shrunk to less than .002". So whatever they did, it "settled" or perhaps the rear of the yoke bent/compressed more or something. In any case they didn't rectify the problem.
And there was .004" of gap when I got it back but after shooting a few cylinders it shrunk to less than .002". So whatever they did, it "settled" or perhaps the rear of the yoke bent/compressed more or something. In any case they didn't rectify the problem.
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Got notification that they got it.
I also checked the paperwork and they replaced "cylinder stop" MIM and hand assembly.
Don't know why that would help but obviously it didn't fix it. Hopefully this time they'll get it right.
I also checked the paperwork and they replaced "cylinder stop" MIM and hand assembly.
Don't know why that would help but obviously it didn't fix it. Hopefully this time they'll get it right.
sgt127
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Smith does not use shims. They stretch the yoke. I'm beginning to wonder if a shim got stuck in the cylinder and, they missed it.
It could also be binding up on the star end. I've seen that too. You will see little gouges on the breech face where a part of the star is in a bind.
I'm sure they'll get it right this time. I'm sure you're frustrated. I'm sorry.
It could also be binding up on the star end. I've seen that too. You will see little gouges on the breech face where a part of the star is in a bind.
I'm sure they'll get it right this time. I'm sure you're frustrated. I'm sorry.
OP
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I didn't leave any shims in it. The ones I tried were removed as they made it worse.
rswartsell
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As usual, Mr. Borland is right, let them diagnose it. Hell it could be the crane assembly or the cylinder bearing. I know it is a PITA, but I still think back to the factory is the right move. That revolver is worth it and should be RIGHT. Just be sure they proof several cylinders worth before return Crossing my fingers for your success.
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Got it back today and it seems in order. All the note said was tight cylinder gap evaluate/repair. I will shoot it later and report. Good to have it back in my hands.
OP
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three or four cylinders full... seems to be working okay. We'll see.
mikemyers
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Send them a thank you note!
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I paid them and it took 2 tries and over 6 months before they fixed it. They should send me a thank you note.
Assuming it actually is fixed now.
Anyone have a good recommended load for the 4" M28? I loaded some 158 MBC .357 "action" coated bullets over 14.5 grains of 2400 and it's a non-painful and very accurate/fun load in a 6" python but in the M28 it's a bit more than fun. I'm surprised as the N frame is pretty stout but it's bordering on painful.
I wonder if it's the grips. I have Ahrends retro target stocks on mine.
I guess I could dial down the 2400 a bit.
Assuming it actually is fixed now.
Anyone have a good recommended load for the 4" M28? I loaded some 158 MBC .357 "action" coated bullets over 14.5 grains of 2400 and it's a non-painful and very accurate/fun load in a 6" python but in the M28 it's a bit more than fun. I'm surprised as the N frame is pretty stout but it's bordering on painful.
I wonder if it's the grips. I have Ahrends retro target stocks on mine.
I guess I could dial down the 2400 a bit.
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Steve Cover
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I'm Glad to see you got it sorted out.
Steve
Steve
Glad the problem is solved. It sounds like it might have been a cylinder cut at an angle. It doesn't take much and usually a gauge is needed to be sure of the problem, but if the front of the cylinder is not square (not an unknown problem) the cylinder will bind when the longer side comes up on the barrel. The problem will become worse as the cylinder heats up, which is why you could get a certain number of rounds without a problem. That problem is not common, but is easy to diagnose and easy (with a good lathe) to correct. Sometimes, you can get away with just shaving the barrel end a bit if that doesn't create too much b/c gap.
Jim
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