S&W model 38 BIG problem

[ChefJeff1]

I have a big problem with my little 38. I got a bullet stuck in the barrel and my local gun store owner said i could knock it out with a wood dowel. i got a dowel that just fit in the barrel, put the gun and a towel in my lap and banged away with a rubber mallet. After about 6-6 or maybe 10 whacks, the entire cylinder fell out. It appears to have sheared off a thin retainer flange or something. I sent it to S&W on Wed. Do you think it can be fixed or will it be a paper weight? I'm so stupid for even trying to fix in myself, I should stick to what I know, FOOD

 

[Onmilo]

This is why there are professional gunsmiths on planet earth,,,,,

Send the revolver back to S&W, they may replace the frame for a very nominal charge.
They will remove the stuck bullet also.

The little flange is indeed a cylinder stop and they aren't very durable on the aluminum frame guns as you found out.

 

[Hud]

" .....I should stick to what I know, FOOD."

OK, just don't try the Heimlich maneuver.

 

[Baldy]

If your sending it to S&W, they'll fix it. Don't worry.

 

[mnrivrat]

If you are talking about the little protrusion on the frame on the back side of the cylinder (cylinder stop) it at least used to be a seperate small part that is staked into the frame - not a real big deal to fix. You apparently were doing your work with the cylinder open - best to keep it closed until said bullet is at the forcing cone, but you already know that now.

 

[SaxonPig]

How do you knock the cylinder off if the bullet was in the barrel? Did you open the cylinder to allow the bullet to fall out of the forcing cone?

 

[Onmilo]

It is normal practice to remove the complete cylinder assembly prior to attempting to dislodge a stuck bullet.
Normally a brass rod turned to the approximate diameter of the bore and threaded onto a short steel rod is used to dislodge the obstruction.
The firearm in question is field or detail stripped depending on the firearm and mounted securely in a padded vise prior to attempting removal of the obstruction

Trying to use a piece of wooden or fiberglass rod usually causes the rod to splinter against the obstruction which lodges pieces aroung the obstruction and makes it even harder to dislodge the obstruction but most folks keep trying thinking that whacking the rod even harder will make the bullet come out.

At some point they usually jam the wooden or fiberglass rod in the bore or knock the barrel so far out of alignment that the gun won't hit the side of a barn wall at 50 feet if they actually do manage to get the obstruction out, or they break something else on the firearm.

I know this may sound harsh, but I have conducted repairs on this kind of problem more times than I care to remember.

 

[ArmedBear]

Good to hear that you're reloading, Jeff.

I've been using Trail Boss for .38, since it's really bulky and light-colored, so it's easy to see if there's any powder in the case.

I'm sure the gun will be fine. If you could trash it so easily, it wouldn't survive being fired.

Best of luck!

Barry

 

[SwampWolf]

ArmedBear: I've been giving a lot of thought to switching from Bullseye and Unique to Trail Boss for the safety factor and because it would seem that a case almost filled might offer more consistent ignition than one that has a lot of "travel room" for the powder to visit. I shoot mostly Bullseye and use 148 grain wadcutters for my .38 Specials and 185 grain semi-wadcutters for my .45 ACPs. Do you have any experience with these loads and, if so, any recommendations?

Please forgive me for the hijack but I wanted to followup on ArmedBear's post.

 

[rcmodel]

A stuck bullet is almost universally the result of an error in loading procedure. (No powder) Then you have to ask yourself:
Self, if one didn't get any, did another one get a double-charge??

Or, folks trying to load so light some of them don't get out of the barrel. (Bad mistake)

This was epidemic in Cowboy Action Shooting several years ago until they changed the rules to require a little more power.

Bullseye is the classic 148 & 185 grain WC target load powder, and has been for about 80 years.

And it will never stick a bullet if you follow the loading manual recipes and don't try to make a .22RF out of a .38 Special or .45 Auto!!!!

rc

 

[ArmedBear]

Trail Boss should work fine for the .38 Special loads.

I've used it for .38 Special and .44 Magnum.

I have no complaints WRT accuracy, but I haven't used those as match loads or anything.

The stuff is worth a try, anyway. A canister is cheap; it's only 9 oz. The powder is BULKY!

 

[ArmedBear]

doubletap

 

[ArmedBear]

And it will never stick a bullet if you follow the loading manual recipes and don't try to make a .22RF out of a .38 Special or .45 Auto!!!!

rc-

Trail Boss is good for 850 fps with a 180 grain bullet in .45ACP, and 900 with a 125 in .38. Those aren't ultralight loads by any means; the powder just fills the case.

 

[rcmodel]

I wasn't talking about Trail Boss.
I was talking about Bullseye.

He said he thought the small Bullseye load was getting lost in the .38 Spl case and causing stuck bullet problems.

I said it wasn't if he was using suggested load data from a reloading manual!!

rc

 

[ArmedBear]

He said he thought the small Bullseye load was getting lost in the .38 Spl case and causing stuck bullet problems.

Who said that?

Someone in this thread?

Can't find it.

 

[rcmodel]

That is what I gathered from post #9.
But that was a thread hijack I failed to pick up on at the time.
So I thought I was still talking to the guy with the bullet stuck in his barrel but...............

Guess I was cornfused. :banghead:
Nevermind!

rc

 

[ArmedBear]

LOL

I've met Jeff from Sun Valley, at a reloading seminar. So I could attach a name to the face, and didn't get confused.

 

[SwampWolf]

Thanks for the feedback, ArmedBear. I may try some Trail Boss soon. I'm especially interested in the accuracy potential (or lack of) of the stuff before I commit to a "switch". I do like the bulk factor.

 

[Jim K]

FWIW, when I had to remove a stuck bullet from the barrel of a side-swing revolver, I removed the cylinder and crane and then stuck a 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 block of wood through the cylinder window so the ends rested on the open vise jaws and the barrel cone rested on the wood, barrel pointing up. By the time the bullet was driven back to the wood, it would usually come right out. I never had a problem using a brass rod of a bit under bore diameter.

Jim

 

[ChefJeff1]

onmilo, not too harsh for me. hat's exactly what happened with the wood going around the bullet, and then the cylinder fell out. Off to the factory for help.
Hi Barry, i guess I should have gone back for the pistol seminar!

I do check the loading block with a flashlight but i guess 1 got by me. Oh well. i'll be extra careful. I did shoot the rest of the batch and everything was great. I did however find some gunpowder on the loading block when i went to use them again so maybe that's what happened.