S&W model 66 all Stainless

[Huntolive]

Hello gents,
In the process of trying to buy a 27 - 2 blued revolver from a fellow Virginian
The opportunity has arisen to get a 66 no dash in all stainless steel including the rear sight and it also has the pinned Barrel and recessed cylinder.

It's in almost new condition with the original box and paperwork.
I really don't know much at all about the Model 66 but I'd like to find out and that's exactly where you experts come in

I'd be interested in value as well
This guy seems to think it's worth a grand

 

[357 Terms]

2.5in. 4in. or 6inch?
Like new with box an early 2.5in 66 could go for a grand, 4 or 6in not so much.

 

[Huntolive]

I'm pretty sure it's a 4in barrel judging by the pictures

Incidentally why would the shorter Barrel be worth more?

Also how good are these revolvers?
What are they known for and what problems do they have?
I have a lot of excellent 357 revolvers and have not come across this style before

 

[357 Terms]

K frame Smith.
Stainless version of the mdl19.
K frames had some issues with forcing cones cracking, but usually caused by shooting "hot and light" magnums.
It's smaller than the mdl27 your buying.
Great size and balance for a 357. If you have a lot of excellent 357's this would be another excellent one.
I'm just not sure about $1000, some more knowledgeable members can provide better input than me on that.

The 2.5in is a bit more rare.

 

[Jonesy814]

I'm pretty sure it's a 4in barrel judging by the pictures

Incidentally why would the shorter Barrel be worth more?

Also how good are these revolvers?
What are they known for and what problems do they have?
I have a lot of excellent 357 revolvers and have not come across this style before

They are worth more because apparently people will pay it

 

[AustinTX]

2.5in. 4in. or 6inch?
Like new with box an early 2.5in 66 could go for a grand, 4 or 6in not so much.

Just as a point of reference, Gunbroker penny auctions have brought anywhere from $1,250 to over $1,600 for LNIB 4" Model 66s with stainless sights in the last few months.

 

[.38 Special]

The 66 is a fine revolver, among the best for daily carry, in my opinion. It is not a great choice for shooting a lot, at least with .357 loads. It kicks, and forcing cones are, as has been pointed out, a weak spot.

Essentially, it is a .38 Special that can handle occasional use with .357 loads.

In my opinion, it is not worth $1000 except perhaps as an investment. Brand new ones are at least as good for carrying and shooting and can be had for several hundred dollars less. They are not particularly special, in the way the pre-lock guns are, but collectors have, in my opinion, driven the prices of the older guns to an unreasonable level.

 

[357 Terms]

but collectors have, in my opinion, driven the prices of the older guns to an unreasonable level.

If some NIB are going for $1600, I would have to agree.

 

[Tallball]

My friend has one with a 4" barrel. His dad gave it to him. It's a very good shooter. The trigger is excellent.

 

[cfullgraf]

I bought a 4" Model 66-6 a several years ago for $750. I'm not sure $1000 would be a good price even these days.

I cracked the forcing cone on a Model 19-4 with a steady diet of 158 grain JHP loads so do not get into the opinion that just 125 grain magnum loads will damage the gun.

Any K-frame Model 66 or Model 19 are great revolvers but be cautious shooting lots of full power loads.

S&W repaired my Model 19 at their expense but this was back in the early 1980's. Replacement barrels are not readily available these days as back in the days.

With the current production of the Model 66, S&W has redesigned the barrel and forcing cone such that forcing cone failures should be a thing of the past.

 

[Old Dog]

4" barrel, 750 bucks tops -- and ONLY if the pistol was in mint condition with great lock-up ...

The new Model 66s are better built (albeit, they do have "The Lock"), typically have great lock-up, mechanical improvements and are stronger than the originals ... and you can score one for about $799.

But no, they don't have the cache or the looks ...

 

[Huntolive]

Once again thank you very much gentlemen

I didn't even know it was a version of the model 19 I had a very nice model 19 and sold it or actually traded it because of the potential forcing cone issues and the fact that I own a wide variety of other quality 357. Sadly the other guy already had sold the Beautiful like new 27 - 2 blued.
I'll save my money for another 27 - 2 with nice bluing to go along with...

 

[Rangegod]

Just a word of caution.
Back in the early 70's I bought an all stainless 66 for about $140. It was one of the smoothest and best revolvers I've ever owned. I stupidly sold it in 85 while going through a divorce. Flash forward to about 2013, I find an all stainless 66 no dash, new (unfired) in the box, with all tools and papers at gun show. I took it home for $625 OTD. This one was never as smooth, but was a good shooter. Unfortunately, within the first 500 or so rounds (38's only) it suffered the infamous "gas ring failure", which was a common issue with the very early 66's. S&W has no parts for these guns but did replace the cylinder and ejector ($177) with later model 19 parts. The returned gun runs better than ever but any collector value has been lost. I still own this gun and several other 3 & 4 inch 66's but I would only buy the -1 or later guns if I intended on shooting them often.

JAC

 

[Armored farmer]

I just got this 2.5" model 66 about 6 weeks ago. It is a 66-3. I got a good deal on it through gunbroker auction, but still had about $800 in it by the time I got it in my hands.
...money well spent though!

 

[ThomasT]

If you are wanting a model 19/66 type gun for a shooter you may try finding a Ruger Security Six. I have owned several 19/66 guns and just sold a 66 with 6" barrel to another member here about a year ago for around $600 IIRC but the Security Six I own is a very close replacement to the model 19. And they can be found for far less money.

Mine is very smooth with a great trigger, no not a S&W trigger but still very good. Especially after I changed the main spring I had left over from one of the Wolffe kits for a GP-100 and did nothing else to it. And these don't have the failure reputation the model 19/66 has.

 

[bangswitch]

I'm pretty sure it's a 4in barrel judging by the pictures

Incidentally why would the shorter Barrel be worth more?

Also how good are these revolvers?
What are they known for and what problems do they have?
I have a lot of excellent 357 revolvers and have not come across this style before

probably fewer made in the shorter barrel . The M66 was introduced in 1971, so your "no dash" was the original series and about that old. I once had a M66-1 and it was a honey, wish I still had it. As said, forcing cones may crack under extended magnum loads, what I've read is the lighter bullet weights are worse to do it due to higher velocity when the bullet enters the cone, but as mentioned it can happen with any of them. I rarely shoot full magnum loads in my M19-3, I keep to light magnum handloads just stronger than a +P .38 Spl.

I'd love to have a first-series M66 as a collector piece, and my favorites are the 4" barreled revolvers.