S&W Revolver date question

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gregp74

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I went to go pick something up at the gun store this morning and an old revolver ended up coming home with me also.

They have it labeled as a model 10 38 special. On the butt it's stamped C 6611

When you pop out the cylinder inside there it says "96 714, and then below that 10"

Any help would be appreciated!
 
It wasn't called a Model 10 until 1957; before that, it was the Military and Police. If you open the cylinder and look where the crane fits to the frame, it should have the serial number, followed by a "10" and a dash with a second number, such as 10-2, 10-3, etc. The number after the dash is the series number, which can be used to date the gun within a few years. Each series had upgrades or changes made to the basic design. The lower the number, the older the gun.
 
The serial number on ALL S&Ws is found on the butt of the grip, NOT inside the cylinder - those numbers are assembly numbers and mean nothing to anyone outside of the factory. IF it is indeed an actual Model 10, then the "10" will be in there as well. First generations will only have the model number without any dash and an extra number.
 
After WW2, S&W was beginning their third Million M&P revolvers. This was in 1948. They started with serial number C1. Since yours is only 6610 later, I would think it's reasonable to assume yours was also made in 1948. If not it would have been early 1949. Your gun should have the long action, like the pre war guns
 
I wasn't in the market for one of these at all, but I'm glad I found it.

Last week I was toying with the idea of getting a 22lr revolver again and decided an S&W 63 might be nice. I wasn't going to buy one right away, but then the shop had one that appeared to be in decent shape for a good price. I did the paperwork on that and went in this morning to pick it up. The guys reminded me all used guns were 25% off this month and urged me to look around if I wanted anything else before signing the paperwork. I looked around the used wall a bit and saw this thing. Looked kinda neat but I had no idea it was that old. Ended up coming home with the 63 and this one! Glad I decided to go for it!
 
After WW2, S&W was beginning their third Million M&P revolvers. This was in 1948. They started with serial number C1. Since yours is only 6610 later, I would think it's reasonable to assume yours was also made in 1948. If not it would have been early 1949. Your gun should have the long action, like the pre war guns

The first S.N. letter prefix after the war was S, and though initially they had the old long action, the shorter pull was introduced not long after production ramped back up. Don't know offhand when the S.N. prefix changed over to C, but I have a pre-Model 10 M&P S.N. C 370721 mfg in the mid-50's. I also have a pristine early post-war 1905 H.E. S.N. S 945104 mfg ~1946. Same age as me...
:what:.
 
All this historical stuff is fascinating.

My grandpa on my mom's side had a big gun collection that was sadly mostly sold off before I was born. I'm just sitting here cleaning this thing and thinking maybe he owned one of these back in the day.
 
The first S.N. letter prefix after the war was S, and though initially they had the old long action, the shorter pull was introduced not long after production ramped back up. Don't know offhand when the S.N. prefix changed over to C, but I have a pre-Model 10 M&P S.N. C 370721 mfg in the mid-50's. I also have a pristine early post-war 1905 H.E. S.N. S 945104 mfg ~1946. Same age as me...
:what:.[ These are known as the Victory model. Later in WW2, due to an accidental discharge the hammer block was changed
The first S.N. letter prefix after the war was S, and though initially they had the old long action, the shorter pull was introduced not long after production ramped back up. Don't know offhand when the S.N. prefix changed over to C, but I have a pre-Model 10 M&P S.N. C 370721 mfg in the mid-50's. I also have a pristine early post-war 1905 H.E. S.N. S 945104 mfg ~1946. Same age as
The first S.N. letter prefix after the war was S, and though initially they had the old long action, the shorter pull was introduced not long after production ramped back up. Don't know offhand when the S.N. prefix changed over to C, but I have a pre-Model 10 M&P S.N. C 370721 mfg in the mid-50's. I also have a pristine early post-war 1905 H.E. S.N. S 945104 mfg ~1946. Same age as me...
:what:.
The first million M&P revolvers had no letter prefix to the serial number. In 1942, with WW2 heating up, they completed that million and started the next. These had a V prefix, the Victory model and ran until 1945. The later ones have an SV to designate they have the improved hammer block safety. In later 1945 as the war came to an end, the V was dropped and the S remained, so the last couple hundred thousand of the series( 1945-1948) have just the S prefix. Sometime in 45 they hit 2 million and then went to a C prefix. Those ran until 1967
Mine with serial C 341xxx was shipped in late 1955
 
The serial number on ALL S&Ws is found on the butt of the grip, NOT inside the cylinder - those numbers are assembly numbers and mean nothing to anyone outside of the factory. IF it is indeed an actual Model 10, then the "10" will be in there as well. First generations will only have the model number without any dash and an extra number.
I didn't say it was inside the cylinder, but on the frame where the cylinder crane slides into the yoke of the frame, and ALL S&W revolvers have the model and SN there, as well as the SN on the bottom of the frame butt, at least the ones I've owned and handled. From the OP's pictures, it looks like he has a Model 10, no dash; although it has the model number "10" on the yoke, there's no SN there, it's only on the butt on his revolver, which probably means a very early gun. I'm by no means an S&W expert, but I am an afficianado, and whenever I get to handle one, I make it a point to look for the dash number when I open the cylinder to make sure it's unloaded. I currently own a M19-3, made in 1967, and have owned a M19-2 and a M66-1, which I bought new in 1977.
 
With everything I've been learning about this gun I kind of forgot to ask -- it's still ok to shoot even though it's probably 72 years old, right?
 
Somewhere between 1948 and 1951 according to the S&W catalog #4.

That is correct. According to the Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson, the serial numbers for 1948 through 1951 were C1 through C223998. I would say with such a low SN yours probably left the factory in 1948.

The proper name for your revolver is 38 Military and Police (Postwar). In 1957 S&W changed over to a model number system, and the 38 M&P became the Model 10. But many shops and owners often mislabel these revolvers as Model 10s.

The numbers on the frame under the yoke are assembly numbers, nothing more.

The great majority of S&W revolvers do have the serial number on the butt, but not all.

The I frame 22-32 Heavy Frame Target revolvers known as the Bekeart Models had an extended grip that covered the bottom of the grip frame.

pm2BjtDEj.jpg




Like this:

plmSe1ZYj.jpg




So the serial number was stamped on the front surface of the grip.

pnifDsTOj.jpg




This was also true of the I frame 32 and 38 Regulation Police revolvers. This is a 38 Regulation Police.

pl98m15gj.jpg




Beginning in 1957 S&W began stamping model numbers on the frame under the cylinder yoke. This is a Model 10 dash 5. The dash numbers represent a progression of engineering changes.

powmqj6zj.jpg



With everything I've been learning about this gun I kind of forgot to ask -- it's still ok to shoot even though it's probably 72 years old, right?

Probably. If you are not familiar with these revolvers I would have a competent gunsmith who is familiar with them check it out first. I have lots of old Smiths, and I shoot most of them, but I know what to look for. Stick with standard velocity and pressure 38 Specials. I would not shoot 38 Special +P in one that old.

By the way, the Ampersands (the & symbol) on the barrel of your 38 M&P are what collectors call the 'lazy ampersand' because of the way it sprawls out and looks like it is laying down.

This Model 14-3 from 1974 has the more modern Ampersand.

pmcQlQKLj.jpg
 
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Ok last question I promise. (Actually, maybe I should start a new thread?)

I want to detail strip and give this thing a good cleaning. Although from a casual glance it appears to be pretty clean I've got no idea what kind of gunk is inside. Any advice before I begin? I can take a Beretta completely apart with my eyes closed, but wheel guns are not my forte.
 
This is probably bad advice, but if it locked up tight I would be willing to shoot it with mild 38 special loads. If the lockup was wobbly, I would prefer to have a professional look at it.

I have a similar S&W M&P (though much uglier) from 1915-16. It locks up pretty tight and I have had no problems shooting it occasionally with mild wadcutters.

My 1921 Colt Army Special locks up very tight and I will shoot any normal, non +P 38 special ammo out of it with no worries.
 
It seems to lock up fine, but perhaps I'll take it to a qualified gunsmith to give it a thorough looking over. Of course, for what I paid for it I could just put it on my shelf and not be that disappointed...
 
Howdy Again

At the very least, do this:

After making sure the revolver is unloaded, cock the hammer. Pointing the gun in a safe direction, and keeping your finger off the trigger, push forward on the hammer with your thumb.

Push real hard.

If the hammer falls, the gun is unsafe and should not be fired. It should not even be loaded with live ammunition.
 
Howdy Again

At the very least, do this:

After making sure the revolver is unloaded, cock the hammer. Pointing the gun in a safe direction, and keeping your finger off the trigger, push forward on the hammer with your thumb.

Push real hard.

If the hammer falls, the gun is unsafe and should not be fired. It should not even be loaded with live ammunition.

Just tried that. Hammer did not fall. And I think I'll have a bruised thumb!
 
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