Safety in putting together a revolver from a parts kit

Status
Not open for further replies.

jefnvk

Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2004
Messages
4,940
Location
Metro Detroit, Michigan
OK, in my latest 'I think this is a good idea' idea, I've decided to look into building a revolver. I've noticed that J&G has S&W model 10 part kits for $99: http://www.jgsales.com/product_info.php/p/s-w-model-10-parts-kit-no-ffl/products_id/1462, and Sarco has Victory/M&P frames for $29-39: http://www.sarcoinc.com/handguns.html.

Obviously, I could go buy a revolver for a little more, so this is more of a project for my amusement. What I need to know, though, is what sort of compatibility and safety issues I am looking at. If anyone could offer advice on my idea, I am looking for it.

Thanks in advance!
 
Revolvers generally are not a collection of drop-in parts like a semi-auto can be. There are fitting and timing issues to deal with. With the questions you asked I'm assuming you haven't worked on a revolver before. There are detailed service and shop manuals available and I suggest you get one of those to study then decide if you want to still try your project.
 
Where would you get a newer frame that wasn't already a working newer S&W revolver?

The parts kit doesn't include one, and you can't just buy one anywhere else.

Oops! I just noticed about the Victory frames from Sarco. So 60's - 70's era parts for a 40's frame? Still think it's a bad idea.

S&W revolvers are not exactly drop-in parts as already noted. The factory fitters had mass quantities of hammers, triggers, rebound slides, etc. in front of them to try until they found just the right combination of parts that fit & worked with each other.

Stoning & filing on the case hardened parts is sure to ruin them.

1224.jpg
rcmodel
 
This is a set of parts from an S&W model 10 revolver. Has 2" bbl, and almost all other parts except the frame.
Be careful about that "almost" part.

By the time you finish, you'll have more invested in special tools and additional parts than if you bought a new gun.
 
A Victory Model is not a Model 10.
You will run into a lot of incompatibility of parts. I don't know if it can be made to work at all, but you will surely know a lot about a S&W revolver by the time you have a working gun or know that it can't be made to work.
 
The Victory Model wasn't a Model 10. They were the military version of S&W's regular .38 1905 Hand Ejector, 4th change - better known as the Military & Police. All of them were made between 1942 and 1945.

By the time the Model 10 came along in 1957 a lot of the lockwork parts had changed, including the hammer and trigger among others. In the process of changing S&W relocated the hammer and trigger studs (pivots) in the frame.

You have an apples and oranges sort of thing. Unless you can get a correct frame, save your money.
 
Unlike automatic pistols, revolvers are almost 100% hand fitted parts.
This means very few parts will just drop in.

Major components like the barrel and cylinder/ejector ALL require extensive hand fitting and adjusting and require special tools to do it.

Barrels are not just pieces of threaded pipe you can screw on and off at will.
They require a lathe to turn the barrel shoulder to align the front sight, and the barrel/cylinder gap and forcing cone must be re-cut and precision gaged.

The cylinder will NOT just drop in, and even if it fits into the frame, it will not be correctly fitted.
Among other adjustments, the cylinder MUST be checked for:
Head space.
End shake.
Alignment with the bore.
Timing.

In other words, it takes a master fitter to assembly a properly working SAFE revolver.
The problem with parts kits is, the part have already BEEN fitted to a frame, and seldom properly fit another without extensive work.
In most cases, the ejector has to be fitted to the cylinder, then the assembly is fitted to the frame.
MOST used ejectors will not fit another frame properly.

Then, as above, you have to find a usable frame that the parts are compatible with.
Again, revolvers are VERY different than autos where many parts will fit with little or no fitting.
I recommend spending your money on an already assembled factory revolver.
Unless you're a fully qualified pistolsmith it's really not possible to assemble a really properly fitted revolver from parts.
You may get it together, but it won't be right, and it might not be safe..
 
OK, that was about what I understood. Tis why I ask these questions, to pick the brain of those smarter than I, cause WAY too many times I have ended up with a pile of parts and nothing that worked :)

Anyways, thanks for the replies!
 
Stoning & filing on the case hardened parts is sure to ruin them.
You will cut thru the thin hardened layer when you stone or file the part, but after you have made the adjustment the part can be rehardened. The part will not be ruined.
 
Listen to Old Fuff and Jim W. Many, maybe most, Model 10 parts will not fit the old Victory Model frame. It is true that most folks consider them the same, and they are as far as frame size and feel are concerned. But S&W continually improves its products and that improvement includes internal parts. That is why S&W has version numbers (10-2, 10-3, etc.) that have to be cited when ordering parts. But the change to a model number did not mean that parts were changed at that time. Such changes went on both before and after that (roughly 1958) time. Even parts from an early Model 10 may not interchange with parts from the latest version (even aside from the lock).

You can buy a police surplus Model 10 for well under $200. Doing what you propose might be fun and educational if could work, but IMHO, you would just be wasting money.

Jim
 
jefnvk

Don't feel bad. :)

This is the exact kind of idea that attracts me as well.

I honestly don't think a Smith revolver is do-able in this way. But a .45 Auto certainly is. You're looking for a project? How about buying a frame and parts and building up a 1911? I've done two and they work great.

And by the end of it, I certainly learned a whole lot about the pistol.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top