Savage 24V series d refuses to break open

[Bljacque]

I haven't been on the forum for quite awhile but have come across a problem with a Savage 24V series d in .222 Remington & 20ga & thought to tap into the collective knowledge for assistance. The firearm itself is in very good shape visually speaking but absolutely refuses to break open. Point of fact, I'm not able to tell if it's loaded or not, though I suspect it has at least one fired cartridge/shell inside and the problem of refusing to break open is associated with that cartridge/shell. The lever to allow the firearm to break open will move to each side approximately 1/2" max but no more & without enabling the firearm to open. Not being familiar with the Savage overunders I have only my shotguns to compare to & my shotguns have considerably more swing that thus Savage. In this basis I believe that something is binding or otherwise preventing it from breaking open. I have removed the fore stock & butt stock and, of what is visible, I can see nothing loose, broken or binding.
I like to know if any of the Highroad membership has come across this or similar problem with this particular series of Savage firearm & what you did to resolve it.

 

[beag_nut]

If that is similar to the model 24 I had years ago, one simply pulls off the forearm (from the front) and then the gun simply "falls apart" (not quite that simple, but...). Has that been tried?

 

[Bljacque]

I did remove the forearm what I called the forestock but there really isn't any "coming further apart" as a result. My guess is that further disassembly will have to be initiated from the back by removing trigger assets, springs, etc. However, I wanted to check with other owners first as I'm not familiar with this model.

 

[4v50 Gary]

Hit it with oil.

You can use the muzzle loader method to see if it's loaded. Drop a wood dowel rod down and mark where it stick out of the muzzle. Then place the dowel rod alongside the barrel. If it reaches the breachface, it's empty. You can also do the same with a 22 LR cleaning rod if it's a small bore O/U. Pratice safety beginning with muzzle control!

 

[BigBlue 94]

Does the barrel selector switch move correctly?

My stevens 22-410 does not fall apart when the forearm is removed. Its the same gun as the earlier M24s. The only thing that is common to break on these is the selector switch.

Can you feel the break open lever catch at all? Sounds like its moving enough

 

[Rubone]

I have a 24V in 223/20. ID should easily open with the lever, however the lever may not be moving all the way. Soak the assembly in Kroil or the like, lightly tap the end of the barrels on a block of wood to make any shells drop forward into the chambers. Give it a bit of time, because If it was left unused with spent shells it could have some corrosion or gunk holding them back, especially if it was stored stock down.

 

[troy fairweather]

Is the pivot pin really worn, is there a good size gap where it hinges

 

[Rubone]

If that is similar to the model 24 I had years ago, one simply pulls off the forearm (from the front) and then the gun simply "falls apart" (not quite that simple, but...). Has that been tried?

That only happens when the release lever is worked.

 

[beag_nut]

I did remove the forearm what I called the forestock but there really isn't any "coming further apart" as a result. My guess is that further disassembly will have to be initiated from the back by removing trigger assets, springs, etc. However, I wanted to check with other owners first as I'm not familiar with this model.

On my old "24" the forearm simply came off, after which allowed the rest to disassemble. I remember being concerned about that characteristic for a while, but was assured by others, and my personal experience, not to be worried, unless I deliberately wanted to take the gun apart.

 

[Rubone]

On my old "24" the forearm simply came off, after which allowed the rest to disassemble. I remember being concerned about that characteristic for a while, but was assured by others, and my personal experience, not to be worried, unless I deliberately wanted to take the gun apart.

That is true, however in order for the rest to dissemble, the release lever must be operated which allows the barrels to come off the receiver. That is the part the OP is unable to do!

 

[entropy]

Firing pins could be frozen forward. With the small gauges and small rifle calibers involved, this might render it unopenable until that is addressed. Unlike a 12 ga O/U, this is more likely prevent opening. (Though it can happen with them, also.)

 

[Bljacque]

Hit it with oil.

You can use the muzzle loader method to see if it's loaded. Drop a wood dowel rod down and mark where it stick out of the muzzle. Then place the dowel rod alongside the barrel. If it reaches the breachface, it's empty. You can also do the same with a 22 LR cleaning rod if it's a small bore O/U. Pratice safety beginning with muzzle control!

Good tip 4V50 Gary, I should've thought of that myself. Using ur blackpowder method it looks like the 20ga barrel is empty but the cleaning rod stops approx 2.25" from the back of the barrel. I'm guessing that it's a fired .222 but wouldn't bet my life on that. That said, at least I know a bit more than I did before. Thanks again for the tip.

 

[Bljacque]

Does the barrel selector switch move correctly?

My stevens 22-410 does not fall apart when the forearm is removed. Its the same gun as the earlier M24s. The only thing that is common to break on these is the selector switch.

Can you feel the break open lever catch at all? Sounds like its moving enough

I can't detect any mechanical contact (metal to metal) when moving the lever to & fro. Having removed the stock I can see the release lever making contact with the metal arms which presumably should cause the firearm to break open. But neither of the two metal arms move fwd or backward in response to the release lever. I hesitate to put any significant pressure on them as I'm concerned with doing damage to the mechanism.

 

[Bljacque]

I have a 24V in 223/20. ID should easily open with the lever, however the lever may not be moving all the way. Soak the assembly in Kroil or the like, lightly tap the end of the barrels on a block of wood to make any shells drop forward into the chambers. Give it a bit of time, because If it was left unused with spent shells it could have some corrosion or gunk holding them back, especially if it was stored stock down.
View attachment 1049536

Certainly worth a try. Will let you know if it works. Thanks.

 

[Bljacque]

Is the pivot pin really worn, is there a good size gap where it hinges

There's no discernible wear on the pivot pin or the hole it's in & it appears tightly fitted in place.

 

[Armorer 101]

If you go to Gunparts.com look up 242D schematic, the others you can not see clearly, you can clearly see the general parts makeup of the action of the 24 series guns and how the parts fit together. Note the actuator at the bottom pf the lever is oblong, when the lever is pushed to the side the oblong portion moves the box with legs, to the rear, unlocking the barrels.
It appears by the drawing that it is necessary for the locking lug box, the legs, to move to the rear to unlock the barrels.
I would try to get a flat metal piece, like a screw driver, inside the box through the open side of the action and move the box back and forth while moving the top lever to the side. It has a spring loaded plunger pushing against it.

This is similar to a single barrel shotgun, they can require you to compress the main spring on the hammer to start disassembly of the internal components of the action, by removing that hammer spring, the last thing that went in the action.

 

[natman]

the cleaning rod stops approx 2.25" from the back of the barrel. I'm guessing that it's a fired .222 but wouldn't bet my life on that. That said, at least I know a bit more than I did before. Thanks again for the tip.

222 Remington:
Case length 1.700 in (43.2 mm)
Overall length 2.130 in (54.1 mm)

If it's stopping about 2.25 inches from the breech, there's probably still a bullet in the case. I'd take extreme caution.

 

[Bljacque]

If you go to Gunparts.com look up 242D schematic, the others you can not see clearly, you can clearly see the general parts makeup of the action of the 24 series guns and how the parts fit together. Note the actuator at the bottom pf the lever is oblong, when the lever is pushed to the side the oblong portion moves the box with legs, to the rear, unlocking the barrels.
It appears by the drawing that it is necessary for the locking lug box, the legs, to move to the rear to unlock the barrels.
I would try to get a flat metal piece, like a screw driver, inside the box through the open side of the action and move the box back and forth while moving the top lever to the side. It has a spring loaded plunger pushing against it.

This is similar to a single barrel shotgun, they can require you to compress the main spring on the hammer to start disassembly of the internal components of the action, by removing that hammer spring, the last thing that went in the action.

Thanks Armour. You're right, many of the schematics I've come across were not as clear as one would like.

 

[Bljacque]

222 Remington:
Case length 1.700 in (43.2 mm)
Overall length 2.130 in (54.1 mm)

If it's stopping about 2.25 inches from the breech, there's probably still a bullet in the case. I'd take extreme caution.

Thanks Natman. Will certainly do so.

 

[Coyote3855]

Is there a reason not to fire the rifle barrel? Might not solve the opening problem, but would at least make handling it safer.

 

[cornbelt]

In case you decide to take it apart, the ping go out toward the left. Springs need to come out first thing, then lever, after that, the hammer strut and hammer. Then the latch pin. After the latch is plumb out, if it still won't break open, its just stuck and you can try putting your knee against it like you break a stick. Or a few taps with a dead-blow hammer might unstick it.

 

[cornbelt]

That's "pins" not ping.

 

[Bljacque]

Appreciate all the suggestions folks but I finally decided to take the firearm to a gunsmith. Decided that the risk to the firearm &/or myself simply wasn't worth it.

 

[gobsauce]

Appreciate all the suggestions folks but I finally decided to take the firearm to a gunsmith. Decided that the risk to the firearm &/or myself simply wasn't worth it.

Keep us updated, I've been silently following this story.

 

[Bljacque]

Will certainly do so. Naturally the the gunsmith is backed up so it may be awhile.