Savage 99 trigger
- Thread starter moosehunt
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gb6491
Member
I had a book recommended to me sometime back, but I never followed up on it (quite expensive).There is supposed to be an article on slicking up the 99 in it.The title was "Gunsmithing Tips and Projects" by Wolfe Publishing
You might want to ask on this board for Savage Collectors; it fairly active.
Regards,
Greg
You might want to ask on this board for Savage Collectors; it fairly active.
Regards,
Greg
rbernie
Contributing Member
There are several variations on the Savage 99 trigger. Be sure to provide the serial number to folk when asking about the Savage, so they have a better idea which FCG you have.
You bet it helps, Mate! Thanks! Mine is of the older type, but this is still valuable to me. Where did it come from?
Australia is one of the few places on earth I haven't hunted (yet), but I intend to in due time. Mayhaps we'll meet up!
Thanks again!
Australia is one of the few places on earth I haven't hunted (yet), but I intend to in due time. Mayhaps we'll meet up!
Thanks again!
Those pictures are of the new Savage trigger system, with the sear engagement at the bottom (C).
But be VERY careful when working on the old Savage trigger, which is different and the one your gun should have if made in 1938. The way it works is that the rear part of the firing pin (Savage calls it the "hammer") is held back by the sear. As the bolt is closed it rises to lock and the hammer tail slides up on the sear to a point (adjusted at the factory by selective fitting) where the trigger pull was considered OK. (That comment in the book that the sear "does not slide off" is meant to give notice that the new trigger and sear do not operate like the old.)
But if either of those parts is shortened or damaged in an attempt to "improve" the trigger pull, the hammer can slip off the sear too soon and the rifle can fire as the bolt is closed. At best an accidental discharge, at worst a thoroughly wrecked receiver.
Jim
But be VERY careful when working on the old Savage trigger, which is different and the one your gun should have if made in 1938. The way it works is that the rear part of the firing pin (Savage calls it the "hammer") is held back by the sear. As the bolt is closed it rises to lock and the hammer tail slides up on the sear to a point (adjusted at the factory by selective fitting) where the trigger pull was considered OK. (That comment in the book that the sear "does not slide off" is meant to give notice that the new trigger and sear do not operate like the old.)
But if either of those parts is shortened or damaged in an attempt to "improve" the trigger pull, the hammer can slip off the sear too soon and the rifle can fire as the bolt is closed. At best an accidental discharge, at worst a thoroughly wrecked receiver.
Jim
Thanks, Mr. Keenan. I realize that mine is the old trigger and the info provided by the kind Ausie is for the new one, but it is still valuable info (at least to me). Of course, the trigger I want to "improve" is on my oldie. Any advice/info on doing so?
What I said above, but a few more thoughts.
First, after you remove the parts, line them up outside the gun and make sure you understand how they work together.
You can lightly stone the surfaces involved, but with an old gun they are usually pretty smooth and the problem is a long trigger pull, not a hard one. Plus, if those parts are case hardened as I think they are, cutting through the case hardening will make the parts soft and they will fail.
But when you try to shorten that pull, you end up with the situation I mentioned.
I STRONGLY recommend you not try, and learn to live with the trigger. But if you must work on it, then go very carefully and take off only a little at a time before reassembling the rifle and testing it.
Work slowly and don't become impatient. (It is this kind of job gunsmiths don't get paid enough for!) Also remember that parts for the old guns are hard to get, and expensive, so if you ruin the sear or hammer you might have the rifle out of action for a long time. (New parts won't interchange.)
Good luck!
Jim
First, after you remove the parts, line them up outside the gun and make sure you understand how they work together.
You can lightly stone the surfaces involved, but with an old gun they are usually pretty smooth and the problem is a long trigger pull, not a hard one. Plus, if those parts are case hardened as I think they are, cutting through the case hardening will make the parts soft and they will fail.
But when you try to shorten that pull, you end up with the situation I mentioned.
I STRONGLY recommend you not try, and learn to live with the trigger. But if you must work on it, then go very carefully and take off only a little at a time before reassembling the rifle and testing it.
Work slowly and don't become impatient. (It is this kind of job gunsmiths don't get paid enough for!) Also remember that parts for the old guns are hard to get, and expensive, so if you ruin the sear or hammer you might have the rifle out of action for a long time. (New parts won't interchange.)
Good luck!
Jim
Mr. Keenan: Thank you very much. Indeed, you hit the nail quite squarely--it's a looooonnng trigger pull, not really a hard trigger pull. Since I'm supposedly considered a "gunsmith", I've considered this dialog a continuing education course. The M99 is not something taught or even commonly dealt with. The "gunsmith" that thinks that there are not "uneducated" folks out there with more knowledge about certain guns is a dumb gunsmith. I hope not to be one of them. I am always open to learn more! This particular situation revolves around a personal gun, and in 20+ years I've never had the same situation brought to me by a customer--but next week?
Naphtali
Member
I'm new to the party. This is a wonderfully useful thread.
Were original version - lever safety and old version trigger assembly - Savage Model 99s made in 308 Winchester, any Winchester cartridge based upon 308, or 284 Winchester?
Were original version - lever safety and old version trigger assembly - Savage Model 99s made in 308 Winchester, any Winchester cartridge based upon 308, or 284 Winchester?
Well, I worked as a gunsmith for quite a few years, and did work on those Savage triggers, which is why I generally recommend that folks not take on the job unless thoroughly familiar with the way the gun works. I never messed up a trigger myself, but I had to fix several that had been "adjusted" with a bench grinder. One let go for the owner; it didn't blow up but went off when he closed the lever. Fortunately, no harm or injury, just scared the heck out of him. Of course,that was when those parts were still available; they are hard to get now, mainly because of folks doing that "adjustment."
Jim
Jim
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