Savage Barrel Swaps

[rc109a]

I was told on the older version of savages that to swap a barrel out was a pretty easy task and could be done by just about anyone with a barrel wrench. While I don't know if this is true or not, it does sound like it would be easy to change calibers if the bolt face was the same. Is this true? If so can you change out the barrels just as easy on the newer models? The reason I ask is that the barrel nuts look a lot different. Just thought I would ask. Thanks...

 

[nastynatesfish]

Ya its pretty easy. Takes me about 10 mins. I dont use go no go guages I just use fire formed cases. Not sure if the edge/axis rifles are the same though.. The nut on my stevens was real tight to break loose but still an easy removal

 

[dawico]

It is just that easy. Just be sure of the receiver size, apparently there are some different sizes out there.

 

[rc109a]

Does this include the newer Savages? I am buying a 16FCSS in 308 and I know they changed the barrel nut. Just making sure before I start getting too excited about this new project...lol

 

[LoonWulf]

There are 2 sizes of barrel threading used. The WSMs use 1.125 (called large shank) and MOST others (tho there have been some standard magnums made with large shank barrels) use small shank or 1.05. I personally wouldnt use the fired case method for head spaceing, i know a number of people do. Id spend the money on a set of gauges specially if your doing a swap barrel gun. You can usually tell the barrel shank size by the type of barrel nut also, tho on newer smooth nut guns i dunno. The large shank have a noticeably shorter barrel nut then small shank guns do.

 

[aubie515]

I use a nut wrench along with an action vise to swap my barrels...I also would recommend buying go/no go gauges...they do not cost that much and some of the gauges are used on multiple calibers. IE the only gauges I have are for my .243/.308. I don't even have to swap out my bolt head.

I don't know about the Edge/Axis series...but the Stevens 200 is the same as other Savages...just no accutrigger on those rifles.

 

[MCMXI]

If so can you change out the barrels just as easy on the newer models? The reason I ask is that the barrel nuts look a lot different. Just thought I would ask. Thanks...

I bought a 16FCSS and it came with the newer smooth barrel nut. You have two choices. You can buy a wrench specifically designed for the new smooth barrel nut or you can remove the smooth nut and replace it with the old style nut and buy a wrench designed for that nut. I replaced the smooth nut with the old style nut. If you decide to order the old nut, buy the old style recoil lug too! The new recoil lugs don't have a tab to index and lock to the receiver! :banghead:

 

[rc109a]

I never thought about just switching out the barrel nuts. I know the old ones are pretty easy to do, but the smooth ones look like they may be more of an issue. Will there be any issues with the old style recoil lug and the accustock? I think this rifle could turn into the switch barrel gun that I have been looking for. I wanted to try and use it for 243 and 308. It would make for a nice addition when I go hunting and only need to bring one rifle...

 

[TonyAngel]

I would also suggest getting the chamber gauges, instead of using fireformed brass. I have a friend that was using fireformed brass as gauges for his "switch barrel" setup. In the end, he put the 7 mag barrel back on it and sold it on consignment at our range. A guy bought it and tried to chamber some factory ammo it in. The headspace was so far out of whack that the extractor wouldn't even grab the head on the factory ammo.

Just because it's easy doesn't mean that you can/should cut corners.

 

[rc109a]

Well from watching the youtube videos and the advice on this forum it appears that this is not a very hard item do to. I need to get the rifle in hand and see for myself still and figure out if I want to change out the barrel nut or just get the wrench that fits it and not mess with it. Either way I can then find me a nice 243 barrel and see where we go from there. I am still on the fence about the new accustocks and how they are. I know the first thing I am going to do is paint that thing...lol

 

[MCMXI]

I would also suggest getting the chamber gauges, instead of using fireformed brass.

+1

I bought go/no-go gages from Midway. I have rifles chambered in .308 Win, .260 Rem and 7mm-08 so I can use the same gages for all three.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=638620
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=539645

Here's the barrel nut ....

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=618324

barrel nut wrench ...

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=288765

and the recoil lug ...

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=820231


You can buy a barrel and wrench as a kit too ....

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=390419

The AccuStock is garbage as far as I'm concerned. I like the AccuTrigger but not the stock. YMMV.

 

[R.W.Dale]

For a rifle meant for my personal use I have no problem with not using gauges in lieu of a sized in my dies piece of brass.

When setting final headspace for a precision savage build I prefer to have my final headspace be on the tight side to the point where when I FL resize brass fired in this rifle it's really only a shoulder bump that works the brass as little as possible.

If I have gauges as I do with 308 I'll use em to verify. But in the end I want my chamber matched to my FL die most.


Tapatalk post via IPhone.

 

[WYcoyote]

For a rifle meant for my personal use I have no problem with not using gauges in lieu of a sized in my dies piece of brass.

When setting final headspace for a precision savage build I prefer to have my final headspace be on the tight side to the point where when I FL resize brass fired in this rifle it's really only a shoulder bump that works the brass as little as possible.

If I have gauges as I do with 308 I'll use em to verify. But in the end I want my chamber matched to my FL die most.


Tapatalk post via IPhone.

This is the theory I'm going to do with my 6.5-.284 build.
Going to set the headspace with the go gage, and fire one new brass.
Then resize that brass in my FL die, and reset the headspace to match the resized case.
Makes sense to me to keep the brass fatigue to a minimum.

 

[jerkface11]

I just used a case with a piece of fax paper under it to set up the barrel on my .338-06.