Schmidt Rubin K11 restoration/sporterization?

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I am fairly new to guns; I grew up shooting .22s and shotguns but I hadn't shot in years when I bought a K11 from a local gunstore. I bought it because I know those old Swiss rifles are well made and accurate and it was in my price range. And because Grama was from Winterthur and I lived in Switzerland for a bit so I like it because its Swiss.

Anywaysisn't . at some point between training excercises in the Alps and that gunstore, Bubba got ahold of the gun and had his way with her. The stock is all chopped up; the old buttplate got sawed off it to accomadate a recoil pad and the forestock got cut down to the rear barrel band. All that remains of the top part is about. Half inch strip of wood that fits under the barrel band which as near as I can tell is actually the front barrel band because it has a little doohickey for a bayonet. The barrel is wrapped in electrical tape where the barre band clamps down on it.

As far as shooting goes, I'm not great, but from a good bench I've been able to shoot as well as 3MOA, but mostly I get about five inch groups with six shots per group. I've noticed that a lot of my groups after the second and third magazine tend to be straight up and down. Some of it is probably me; I can see so well with no scope, but I'm wondering if it mightn't be that electrical tape messing with my barrel harmonics as it heats up. I mean I shot one group where I was just in the zone, I took my time and I felt like my technique was as good as I know how to do and when I went up to my target sure enough, the group was a half inch wide but five inches tall. Just a straight line up and down the bottom being right about my point of aim.

So I'm wondering if you long time shooters could help me figure out what the problem is or if I just need more trigger time or what. Is there some other materials I should replace the electrical tape with? Is there any reason I shouldn't just take the barrel band and the tape off and have a completely freefloating barrel? Also, I'm not sure yet if I want to try to get the rifle back into its original configuration, or just finish what Bubba started and get a fancy stock and an Optic and some other bells and whistles. So any input from anyone on this subject would be greatly appreciated. I know I kind of went on and on, but I'm really want to figure this out and learn as much as I can in the process.
 
Check 'swissrifles.com' forum for some very expert advice on accuracy tuning. The page on 'Accurizing your Swiss rifle' recommends free floating the barrel as a first step, also fine tuning the guard screw tension can have a surprising effect on accuracy. These are remarkable rifles when shooting their best, tap into the expertise on their site to benefit from the experience of those who have made an avocation of them.
 
What ammo are you using? Surplus GP-11 is the go-to standard.

What distance are you shooting? A 5 inch group at 100 yards isn't necessarily bad for a new shooter with open sights on a bubba'd surplus rifle.
 
I have been shooting 165 grain Hornadys mostly and I've been shooting at 100 yards. I wasn't even kinda displeased with my groups when I started I was really just happy to be on the paper but as I've gotten better and my groups got tighter I noticed that I was getting those up and down patterns as the gun heated up. I'll try floating the barrel and I'll look into that website about accuracy tuning.
Thanks guys
 
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